• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.94-102
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• 2010

The dyeing of poly(trimethylene terephthalate)(PTT)/silk mixture fabrics can be accomplished by a two bath dyeing method with separate application of the disperse dyes on the PTT, reduction cleaning of the stained silk and then dyeing the silk with the acid dyes, or by one bath dyeing method with mixed dye ranges, possibly followed by a cleaning treatment. The two bath dyeing method has the advantage of better results with respect to dry cleaning fastness properties thanks to the possibility of an intermediate reduction clear. On the other hand, as compared with the two bath dyeing method, one bath dyeing method with a mixed dye range permits rapid and more reproducible dyeing, without the risk of great difference with respect to the shade of the strike on both substrates as well as savings of time, energy and water usage. This study was carried out to investigate dyeing characteristics of PTT/silk mixture fabrics with disperse dyes/acid dyes by one bath dyeing method in comparison with two bath dyeing method in the interests for rationalization of the dyeing process.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.525-534
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• 1998

Cotton fabrics were finished with mixture of BTCA(1,2,3,4,-butanetetracarboxylic acid) and polyalkyleneoxide-modified amino-functional silicone by pad-dry-cure process to achieve better DP performance with a higher retention of physical properties as compared to those of finished with BTCA alone. The results indicated that BTCA improved the wrinkle recovery but reduced significantly the tensile and tear strength of the treated fabrics. Whereas silicone imparted a lower wrinkle recovery, a lower loss of tensile strength than BTCA, in addition improved considerably the tear strength owing to reduction in inter-fiber and/or inter-yarn frictional forces. The concentration and curing temperature needed to enhance physical properties were as follows; for BTCA treatments 6%, at 18$0^{\circ}C$, for silicone treatments 1% at 14$0^{\circ}C$. This optimum concentration of silicone was observed by using the mixture of BTCA and silicone. The wrinkle recovery and DP rating of cotton fabrics treated with mixture of 4% BTCA and 1% silicone at a curing temperature of 17$0^{\circ}C$ was similar to those of treated with 6% BTCA at a curing temperature of 18$0^{\circ}C$, and other performance properties observed were; an increase in tensile strength, extension, toughness, abrasion resistance and moisture regain due to the reduction of BTCA concentration and curing temperature, futhermore an improvement in bending and surface properties due to the lubricating effect of silicone. On the other hand 1% aqueous silicone solution showed the lowest surface tension. Such nonionic surface activity resulted in a more uniform and rapid deposition of BTCA on the fiber or fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권9호
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• pp.1461-1466
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• 2008

This study provides effects of mixed activators on enzymatic activation and determines optimum mixture ratio for enzymatic treatment. Wool 80% and polyester 20% blend fabric and papain from carica papaya are used in this experiment. L-cysteine and sodium sulfite are used as activators for papain treatment process. The treatment condition is pH 7.5, $70^{\circ}$, papain concentration 10%(o.w.f), 60 minutes. L-cysteine and sodium sulfite are added in enzyme solution with various concentrations($0{\sim}50mM$). The optimum treatment condition is determined by measuring weight loss, tensile strength, whiteness, water contact angle(WCA), dyeability and surface micrographs. The results are as follow; The optimum mixture ratio of activators is L-cysteine 2mM and sodium sulfite 10mM. Mixed activators assists in improving the activation of papain. WCA of papain treated fabrics is decreased since papain treatment with activator mixture makes wool polyester blend fabrics more hydrophilic. Dyeing property of papain-treated fabrics more improves by the treatment with mixed activators than with single activator. It means that this method can save time and lower cost. After papain treatment in the presence of mixed activator, the surface of fabrics is modified. The surface of wool fiber shows to be descaled and hydrolyzed, and that of polyester fiber shows to be cracked.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.374-380
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• 2001

Cotton and ramie fabrics were dyed with artemesia and gardenia dyeing solutions. The chroma values of the fabrics dyed with gardenia were higher than that of artemesia. The ramie fabrics dyed with gardenia showed higher chroma values than the cotton fabrics. The colors of fabrics were deeper in shade but their chroma values were improved no more by repetition of dyeing process in artemesia dyebath. The two ways of dyeing processes were carried out. In the first wan, each fabric was dyed in 5 different concentration(1∼5%) of gardenia dyebath to get the fabrics dyed in different shades. After then the gardenia dyed fabrics were dyed again in the artemesia dyebaths. In the second way, the 5 fabrics were dyed in different shades by repetition of dyeing process in artemesia dyebath. After then the artemesia dyed fabrics were dyed again with the gardenia dyebaths. When the artemesia dyeing process was added on the fabrics dyed in five shades with gardenia, the color differences between five samples were slight. But when gardenia dyeing process was added on the fabrics dyed in five shades with artemesia, the samples showed different hue of colors between yellow and green of Munsell color circle. Like almost of fabrics dyed with Plants materials, the colorfastness to light and laundering of the dyed samples were poor But the colorfastness to drycleaning was good.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.16-16
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• 2001

Cotton and ramie fabrics were dyed with artemesia and gardenia dyeing solutions. The chroma values of the fabrics dyed with gardenia were higher than that of artemesia. The ramie fabrics dyed with gardenia showed higher chroma values than the cotton fabrics. The colors of fabrics were deeper in shade but their chroma values were improved no more by repetition of dyeing process in artemesia dyebath. The two ways of dyeing processes were carried out. In the first way, each fabric was dyed in 5 different concentration(1∼5%) of gardenia dyebath to get the fabrics dyed in different shades. After then the gardenia dyed fabrics were dyed again in the artemesia dyebaths. In the second way, the 5 fabrics were dyed in different shades by repetition of dyeing process in artemesia dyebath. After then the artemesia dyed fabrics were dyed again with the gardenia dyebaths. When the artemesia dyeing process was added on the fabrics dyed in five shades with gardenia, the color differences between five samples were slight. But when gardenia dyeing process was added on the fabrics dyed in five shades with artemesia, the samples showed different hue of colors between yellow and green of Munsell color circle. Like almost of fabrics dyed with Plants materials, the colorfastness to light and laundering of the dyed samples were poor. But the colorfastness to drycleaning was good.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.249-257
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• 2003

For the efficiency in extracting gromwell colorant, methanol, ethanol and aceton were used as solvents. Also, to compare the results when dyed in various conditions and on various fabrics, the ratio of water-dye mixture, pH, temperature, and varieties of fabrics -wool, silk, cotton, nylon, ramie- were selected. L, a, b, ΔE, munsell and K/S value of each sample was measured and compared for the practical use. Water-dye mixture of 5:5 ratio showed the optimum dyeability. Not to mention wool and silk, but also cotton showed a satisfying dying result at the acidity of pH4. As the temperature increased, the dyeability of all three fabrics improved greatly. Especially, wool showed the highest improvement in terms of dyeability as the temperature increased. K/S values for wool and nylon showed superior results to the others in the gromwell colorant. The resulting color turned out somewhat different depending on the solvents used and the sort of fabric that was tested on. When the gromwell colorant extracted with methanol or ethanol was applied, the color of fabrics came out as purple or purpleblue. When the colorant extracted with acetone was used, the color of fabrics came out to be redpurple. The colorfastness to light showed low glades regardless to whichever solvents were used. The grades of colorfastness to laundering were recorded low numerical values, and its record became even lower when the gromwell colorant extracted with aceton was applied. The staining grade of the colorfastness to laundering showed a good grade in the range of 4 to 5. All the dyed fabrics showed a excellent drycleaning fastness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.163-172
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• 2010

In order to investigate the changes in mechanical properties of sanitary nonwoven fabrics actually used as a top sheet, the fabric was treated with a mixture of chitosan and nanosilver colloidal solution in accordance with the prescribed ratio. The former is a natural polymer with excellent biocompatibility and the latter can give an additional performance while compensating the weaknesses of chitosan of deteriorating adherence efficiency. It was shown that the bending and shearing characteristics of the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics decreased, which helped to make it softer, smoother and more flexible. The shape stability and drapability of the treated fabrics improved. As KES-FB system evaluation showed that Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics were smoother to provide elasticity. In the change of hand value compared to chitosan only treatment, a better THV was shown in the fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.306-313
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• 2010

To achieve color diversification of natural dyeing, color mixture dyeing with Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree is applied to wool and silk fabrics. After dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution of 5~25%(o.w.f.), the indigo dyeing was carried out up to four times. Alternatively after repeat dyeing with indigo one to seven times, the dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution was applied in 5 steps(5~25%). In color mixture dyeing, the dye uptake of wool fabrics appears higher than that of silk. The sequence of Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing after Indigo dyeing was generally higher dye uptake compared with that of Indigo dyeing after Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing. For wool and silk fabric, the pre-dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree solution was more effective for color diversification but the pre-dyeing with Indigo was more effective for the exhibition of intermediate color shade.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.181-188
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• 1988

Cotton fabrics were slack-mercerized in sodium hydroxide, ammonia water(min. $28{\%}\;NH_3$), and mixture of ammonia water/sodium hydroxide. The surface of treated cotton fabrics were observed through SEM, and the changes of fine structure were analyzed by X-ray diffractometer. In addition to that shrinkage was compared mutally, and tenacity-elongation compared, too. SEM photographs showed fibrls rearranged strightly toward fibre axis. X-ray diffraction represented increased amorphous fraction, and partial recrystallization into cellulose 2 lattic after treatment with sodium hydroxide and mixture of ammonia water/sodium hydroxide. The mercerization produced increased fibre tenacity-elongation with slark state. Lastly, the best condition of mercerization was $4\%/14\%$, $10^{\circ}C,\;5\~30$ min. in mixture of ammonia/sodium hydroxide.