• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권9호
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• pp.41-50
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• 2006

This study examines the characteristics of the military look in modern fashion. The materials for the study are mainly precedent studies and related literature, although fashion portfolios and magazines, domestic and international, are used for the exploratory study. The results of the study are as follows. First, the military look for women dismantles the sexual symbolism endowed with the clothes by expressing a neutral charm out of dichotomy image between genders. The neutral expression of the military look, different from the military look of the 20th century, provides a chance to feature a new image by pursuing more individual freedom than human itself. Second, the military-look emphasizes feminine sensual charm through exposing, concealing, or decorating with ornaments which are transformed from the elements of the military clothes, This is different from the past military look that expressed masculine rigidity through simplifying the details and emphasizing the male body silhouette. Third, the military look produces a deconstruction image instead of just showing its intrinsic thoughts or symbolic message through combining design elements or symbolic details of the military look with other images, transforming and exaggerating the shapes, or mixing the time point of views reinterpreting the present or the future image.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.381-393
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• 2007

This study was intended to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look of the Milan collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged concretely in the later 20th century. A total of 334 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, it was found that the straight line was the most preferred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing the bisexual image of the military look. Third, in the colors of the military look, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was reflected in the military look. Finally, in terms of the item of color coordination, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• 복식
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• 제61권3호
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• pp.83-96
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• 2011

It will be very effective in studying fashion images that reflect society to investigate the process of the images of military uniforms becoming fashion with the images as the original or image changes in the military look in relation to The hyperreal of the Simulation phenomenon. The foundation of the study was set up by studying simulation and simulacra. Studying the simulation phenomenon in fashion was followed by explaining the aspects of simulacra and the hyperreal in image changes in fashion to study and analyze the simulation phenomenon of the military look based on the findings. The study examined the military look from the Industrial Age to modern times through simulation and the hyperreal in the military look of modern fashion through the changes of images that started with military uniforms. Those research efforts led to the following conclusions: Looking into fashion through the military look reveals that The hyperreal made its appearance in most cases with few cases of the 1st and 2nd simulacrum. And hyperreality was closely related to media in fashion under the influence of media. In short, fashion and copy are in an inseparable relation, and the hyperreality phenomenon has always been present in modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.137-151
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• 2007

This study was aimed to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs of the Paris collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged in the later 20th century. A total of 267 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, the straight line was the most referred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing he bisexual image of the military look. Third, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was effected in the military look. Finally, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.119-128
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.19-36
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• 1999

A military uniform has two basic characters. One is functionality for field warfare and the other is decorativeness to express dignity and power to maintain systematic organization. For these purposes, the military uniform is maximizing its effects on functionality and decorativeness on each aspects of material, color, dignity, item, military ornaments and accessories. During wartime, the military uniform improved its functionality and gave much influence on normal clothing at the same time either directly or indirectly. Military look became more diverse. In a mood for the end of century and inflated material civilization, and with nostalgia for the fast, mixed styles of fast, presents and future have come out in variety. In Street Fashion, there are many alternative trends to meet diverse desires of teenagers, and the military look has been steadily favored. The functionality and the decorativeness of military look would have met fashion sense and taste of younger generations pretty well. First, teenagers are active, and the practical materials and functional designs of military style applied to their clothes. Second, they prefer challenging and creative styles, and the decorative elements of military clothing for the colors, patterns, accessories have been applied to they clothing. We may need to understand their culture and emotion more closely and help them enjoy sound and beautiful clothing culture. The military uniform adapted itself to natural and social environments and has been developed and improved, which made that possible.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.62-75
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the color and color coordinations and their aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs from 1996 to 2000. The research data were gathered from Vogue and Collezioni Donna from this period. Total of 1004 works were collected and used for this study. The results were summarized as follows. In the colors of the military look, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest quantity, which indicates that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors since 1996, and this influence was reflected in the military look. In terms of color coordination, monochromatic coordination accounted for 52.7% of the military look, through which it could be presumed that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image of the military designs.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2010

The purposes of this study were to understand the military look in contemporary fashion by analyzing it based on the theory of Baudrillard, who offered explanations about images with the phenomenon of simulation, and provide basic data for the use of images in fashion by presenting new perspectives of images in fashion. The period from ancient times to the Renaissance does not belong to any of the three orders in Baudrillard's simulacra. In other words, there was no simulacrum created in the period according to his image changes. In the military look, however, the simulation phenomenon is different from his argument. To be specific, there is a "hyperreal" one as well as the simulacrum of "generalized image" as the simulacrum of a "transmuted image." It is because fashion exists only when it is worn widely by the imitations of others and in an inseparable relationship with imitation. In fashion, simulacra can always be found, which is one of the special qualities of fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.265-275
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• 2022

본 연구의 목적은 최근 여성 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 밀리터리 룩의 전환적 디자인 발상 사례를 분석하여 유형화하고 특성을 도출하는 것이다. 연구 방법은 밀리터리 룩에 관한 이론적 고찰과 패션 컬렉션 사례 분석의 순서로 진행하였다. 연구 결과는 사례 분석을 통해 총 6개의 전환적 디자인 발상 유형으로 분류되었다. 디자인의 구조 변화로 탈중심 유형, 확장과 축소의 유형, 소재 전체 변화, 혹은 일부 소재의 전환, 마지막으로 스타일링에 해당하는 이질적 조화와 유기적 결합에 따른 유형이다. 분류된 유형을 분석한 결과 총 3개의 특성이 도출되었는데, 첫째 구조적 요소의 재구성, 둘째 믹스매치의 매터리얼 확장, 셋째 스타일링의 감성적 융합이다. 뉴 밀리터리 룩의 전환적 발상 유형 연구를 통해 창의적인 디자인 발전의 원동력이 되며, 패션디자인 전반에 걸친 시대적 현황과 변화를 읽을 수 있는 기초 연구가 되기를 바란다.