• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.45-59
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• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.31-45
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• 2013

Fashion appears as a similar sense of form in a regularly cyclical way. The part highlighted in the female body also becomes that way. The social and cultural problem of fashion is also a matter about the selection of a wearer on how to wear in what environment. Power dressing means an attire that makes you feel dignity, intelligence or power and an attire that is needed to succeed in the business society. It is based on the fact that women started wearing tailored suits that were regarded as the exclusive item of men as the women's social activity was actively progressing. The purpose of the study is to analyze the problem of styles in the social and cultural perspectives. The power dressing was repeatedly appeared in 1930s, 1980s and 2000s. Therefore, this study collected photo data and literature documents to analyze and compare shoulders represented during these three periods, and to examine what social cultural environment was operated for each period and how the designers of each period expressed with clothes. Power dressing is characterized by the use of shoulder pad for the first time for 1930s, the extended shoulder for 1980s and the design the extended shoulder with the more decorative method for 2000s. Power dressing has been utilized as women's gain and improvement of social status, flaunting of economical status and a symbol of individuality and identity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권5호
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• pp.872-882
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• 2017

There are no specific guidelines on how to control the heat input for the heat generating smart base layer. This study investigated the mode of actuating heat pad attached to the base layer by performing a human wear test in a cold environment. Subjects participating in the test wore T-shirts, jumper and pants on the base layer with heating pads. Skin temperature, total time of heating and the number of switching for the heating mode were observed as the subject controlled the heating mode voluntarily. The comfortable range of skin temperature on the abdomen was larger than on the lower back. The subject felt hot and turned off the switch when the mean skin temperature of the abdomen was $48.8^{\circ}C$ and the lower back was $40.1^{\circ}C$. The total heating time and the number of actuating switching were larger for women than men. The voluntary action of heating for men with high cold sensitivity was significantly different from men with low cold sensitivity. Therefore, it is necessary (depending on gender and cold sensitivity) to set the heating mode differently for the automatic heat control of a future smart base layer.

• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.121-133
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• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.15-28
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• 2011

This study will focus on research and analysis covering the period of time since the creation of the People's Republic of China to current day China, with an emphasis on 20-something year-old women living in Shanghai. In conducting this research, historical evidence of fashion was derived from books, photographs, and Internet resources pertaining to the specific periods of interest. Furthermore, each set of data has been organized in approximately decade-long segments that best reflect the transformation of Chinese fashion from 1949 to 2000. As a result of the countrywide emphasis placed on revitalization of the newly created Chinese state during the period of 1949 to 1965, detail to fashion was largely ignored, in preference to the successful upstart of a working economic foundation. This neglect of fashion is evident by the scarcity of new and daring styles during this period. The following the period of 1966 to 1977 ushered in a cultural revolution that was aptly demonstrated in the changing fashion tastes. When compared with the previous period, the blandness of clothing, authorized by the Chinese government clearly reflected the rules and regulations strictly enforced by a government mandate of conformity and obedience. These orthodox changes were so drastic, that women wearing these clothes could hardly be differentiated from men in the same style wear. After Mao Ze Dong's death in 1976 and the end of the sternest period of the Chinese Revolution, a new era of Chinese culture and fashion was made possible by a more lax and tolerant government. During the later palt of the seventies through the eighties, this new governmental policy fostered more openness and self-expression, both of which led to a newfound interest in expressing one's desires and personality through the clothes he or she chose to wear.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.181-195
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• 2000

This study was conducted from Sep., 1999. to Nov., 1999. It researched approximately 60 specialized manufacturers who had homepages on the Internet. Of the 60 manufacturers, 20 of them were chosen for the study all of whom had relatively were made homepages that were geared towards sales. 1. Daily Hanboks on the homepages were put in an electronic catalog. They were photographed and well described. Each picture could be enlarged when needed. 2. The Hanbok's were made for men, women and children. There were every couple's Hanboks. The Hanboks used natural material, mixed spinning and chemical textile, which was easily kept and washed. It was intended, as clothes for everyday wear Silk was used for formal clothes. 3. The prices ranged from low-middle to high clothing for everyday life is reasonable and street wear and formal dresses are priced high. The color of the dresses are not vibrant, but natural and light. As Hanboks become more in demand, there will be more choices available. 4. As matter of the sizes shows weakness. In general they use the western size system. The purpose of this study is to show the direction that Hanbok manufacturers may take for the internet sales and for being more active to promote the spread of the dress. This research came to the fellowing conclusion. Even though Hanbok manufacturers operate homepages. it seems that they are not well used. However, many internet shopping malls have been opened and they have put Daily Hanboks into one of their sales categories. The internet malls are getting more active and are expanding more. Therefore the market value of the Hanboks in the future look optimistic. If smaller sized manufacturers of Daily Hanbok's establish cooperative network that have no time and space limit, they can use the strong power of the market as the market development for Daily Hanboks is endless.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.852-866
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women's fashion with the androgynous image(fashion item, adornment) which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, masculine image led the market in the first stage of mid 1980 in a men's wear oriented trend that the woman wear masculine style jacket, pants and blouse. In hair style, the short hair of the masculine image was used habitually but the make-up was tend to be made heavily. The ambivalence of the sex was also showed up by expressing the feminine image on the masculine image using the accessories like necklace, earing and bracelet. Second, unlike the first stage, it showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. The jacket, blouse and pants were rooted as the basic item in women's fashion. The feminine style of long hair and natural make-up with the androgynous image were increased. Third, in the third stage of the late 1990, the fashion items to the comfortable dress of light weight as the life style pursuits the activity and convenience. The feminine image were appeared naturally with a long hair style and natural make-up with the androgynous image. The remarkable features in the fashion accessories were that boots and low shoes were preferred by the increase of the masculine image shoes and the sneakers were seen a lot by the effect of the sports boom.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.37-60
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• 2021

Before the tenth century, the dress of elite women in and around China often reflected "Han" Chinese fashions and preferences. In funerary paintings and relief sculptures of Sogdian and Xianbei couples from the sixth century, for example, women wear "Han" Chinese-style clothing. Even in the Tang dynasty (ca. 618-907), when exchange with Central Asia via overland Silk Road trade impacted the styles and patterning of elite dress and men incorporated clear Central Asian attributes into their dress, elite women in the Tang sphere wore recognizably Tang fashions. Chinese-style dress in these centuries clearly conveyed cultural import and, likely, political power, especially after the founding of the Tang dynasty. However, the straightforward borrowing of Tang women's dress shifted in the Khitan Liao dynasty (ca. 907-1125). The Liao, in contrast to other states that shared a border with China in previous centuries, saw themselves as political equals to the Song dynasty (ca. 960-1278) court in the south. The Liao court was interested in Song customs and culture and incorporated artistic motifs and practices from the Song court. However, the Liao courtly idiom was never fully subsumed into the greater world of the Song - rather, the Liao used facets of Song courtly culture for their own ends. One way this is manifested is through the dual administrative system, a bureaucratic organization that, among other things, regulated and distinguished between who was permitted to wear Khitan and non-Khitan dress. In this paper, I will examine the material evidence from funerary contexts for how the dress of elite Liao women both engaged with the dress of the Song, while also maintaining a certain amount of cultural autonomy. Through their dress, elite Liao women signaled clear messages about their status, identity, and difference to their Song counterparts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.411-421
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• 2000

Black froak coat, white shirts, top hat and cane has been the symbol of gentlemen in 19th and early of 20th century. The pattern invented by Savile Row in London prevailed whole England. Such a pattern has been the standard form for two hundred years all over the word, although it was replaced with a functionalism which developed in Italy and America at the end of 20th century. The clothes of gentlemen was developed by several factors ; English people respect a tradition. The clothes was practical, since the weather in England was bad. The success of Industrial Revolution made England wealthy. Various special clothes in sports, for example, riding, criket, golf and tennis also contribute the modern gentlemen clothes with advance tailoring technique. The change of gentlemenship with social environment, from Regency dandy, Romantic gentlemen to Muscular Christianity, was studied. Idial gentlemenship and development its clothes which is now the standard of modern men's wear also studied.