• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.415-428
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• 2004

The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.73-87
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• 2018

As men in their 30s are spending more money on clothing, it is becoming increasingly important to first conduct an anthropometric study and then develop garment patterns accommodating the changes found in body sizes and types of men in their 30s, in order to effectively address their fit dissatisfaction. Thus this study aims to explore changes in upper body sizes and body types of men in their 30s, which provide basic measurements for designing major garment items including jackets and shirts. To this purpose, key anthropometric dimensions of the upper body of men in their 30s, taken from the 6th (2015) and 7th (2016) surveys conducted by Size Korea, were analyzed using SPSS 24.0 for Windows. Independent sample t-tests were conducted on major upper body sizes to track changes with measuring time. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify body types. By comparing the two surveys, it was found that the overall body sizes of men in their 30s were increasing in height-related items, circumference, thickness, and width, -as well as body weight and BMIs. Upper body height-related items, in particular, showed a higher average value in the 6th survey than in the 7th, indicating that the overall body types of men are becoming "westernized" with longer legs and shorter torso. Finally, five factors were derived to determine the typical upper body types of men in their 30s and the body types were classified into three categories according to the cluster analysis. First, those with a relatively small build with short stature and torso. Second, those with the highest stature and vertical dimension with the smallest torso volume and least body fatness. Third, those with the biggest torso volume and most body fatness with bigger width between armpits and shoulders. The distributional pattern analysis showed that men in their 30s tend to have increasingly higher stature but lower body weight and BMIs than in the past, implying that their body types are becoming close to those of men in their 20s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1754-1762
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• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 적합성과 기능성이 고려된 체형별 남성 상의 원형 패턴을 개발하는데 있다. 피험자는 인체계측자료와 측면체형 사진에 의해 선정하고, 체형은 굴신체형, 표준체형, 반신체형으로 분류하였다. 체형별 실험 원형 패턴의 평가를 위하여 기존원형을 선정하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다; 1. 착의평가 결과 표준체형은 대부분의 항목에서 적합하였으나, 굴신체형과 반신체형에서는 많은 차이가 있었다. 이러한 차이는 앞길이와 등길이 뿐만 아니라 여유량과 윗 가슴둘레에 서 나타난다. 앞품과 뒤품은 외관에 의해 많은 영향을 받으며, 증가된 옆품은 앞품과 뒤품의 부족분을 보충하는 역할을 하였다. 따라서 실험패턴은 기존패턴보다 각 체형에 더욱 적합하며, 체형 적합성과 동작기능성이 고려된 의복 제작을 위한 패턴설계는 인체의 구조와 동작연구에 의해 가능하였다. 2. 기본원형 패턴 설계를 위한 필요치수는 목뒤높이, 등길이, 앞길이, 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품과 뒤품이며, 체형분류의 기준은 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품, 뒤품, 앞길이, 등길이이다. 이와 같은 결과를 근거로 가슴둘레 선은 [(B/2+B/10), 뒤진동깊이는 [(B/10+목뒤높이/10)]로 설정하고, 앞내림은 1.5cm로 하였다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.88-98
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• 2005

This study focuses on the needs at both consumers and manufacturers. It aims to find ways for consumers to purchase outfits that would fit their particular body type and preferences at reasonable prices, choose raw materials and style at garments, and virtually try them on. In addition, the study is designed to help apparel manufacturers identity customers' changing needs, reduce inventories, manage information on customers' body type in a digitalized form, and eventually contribute to promoting electronic commerce. Based on nine basic patterns that tit each subject, 108 virtual garments are created by adjusting the size of the patterns (9 subjects $\times$ 4 body parts $\times$ 3 patterns = 108 outfits). In order to determine fitting preferences for each body part and find optimized conditions, cross-tabulation analysis including $X^2$ and frequency analysis were performed to measure the appearance rate. A style of virtual garment, which is minus 2cm from chest size was chosen as the most appropriate pattern to the baseline location of front the chest. For the waist parts, the C style as an appropriate virtual garment to front and back view. In the front, lateral and back view, a style was chosen in the response to the sleeve-bodice combinations, the ease amount of armhole area, the armhole depth and the loosening of tightening or armhole line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.