Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.38
no.1
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pp.1-18
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2014
This study analyzes the styles of Baekje costumes by examining costume types and styles based on the research of old books and a comparative study of archaeological and historical Baekje art relics in Central Asia. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Through the comparative study of the records of old books, relic materials (Yangjikgongdo, Mural paintings of Takamatsuzuka Tumulus, Cheonsuguk Mandarasujang, Shosoin relics, and Haniwas), we can see that ancient Japanese costumes were influenced by the culture of Baekje costumes. 2. A comparative study of the records of relic materials of Baekje and Central Asia show that there were vigorous interchanges between the East and West. 3. Baekje costumes showed a great diversity in styles because they were based on Buyeo costumes developed in conjunction with vigorous overseas trade. 4. Baekje's upper garments are summarized as Boksam and Po for men and Yu, Banbi and Euisapo for women. Boksam and Yu styles varied as tunics and overlapped jackets with straight and round collars. Two types of sleeves coexisted. The sleeves of Hansung Baekje period were a diagonal lined style that was wide on the armhole and narrow on the wrist. The sleeves of Sabi Baekje period were a reversed diagonal lined style that is narrow on the armhole and wide on the wrist. Pants styles were summarized as Gon, Gunggo and Daegugo. There were not enough relics and references for the Baekje costumes; however, this study widens the possibility of the existence of various styles of Baekje costumes through inferences from available data.
This study is to investigate the previous cases of plural eclecticism through the works of Vivienne Westwood, who contributed to the spread of innovative and eclectic English fashion out to the world as well as to review plurality and its phenomena since the 20th century more systematically. In terms of research methodology, the phenomena of plural eclecticism were examined from social and cultural perspectives, whereas bibliographic research and case study were performed for the phenomena of eclecticism in fashion. From the perspective of plural eclecticism, the results from analyzing the works of Vivienne Westwood by the divisions of temporal eclecticism, spatial eclecticism, and contingent eclecticism are described in the following. First, Vivienne Westwood emphasized historicism tendency of temporal eclecticism. Her efforts to try to modernize history went beyond ages and social classes including men's clothing, prostitutes' costumes, craft items, and dresses for royal family. Second, her spatial eclecticism was reflected on the first collection themes inspired by the American Indians or borrowed from the names of Voodoo in the Tropics. Finally, infra-fashion as an expression of contingent eclecticism of Vivienne Westwood's works can be interpreted as plural eclecticism which shows contingent eclecticism and historic eclecticism at the same time. This study aimed at proving preceding implications concerning recent plural eclecticism through the analysis of the works of Vivienne Westwood who tried a radical design of plural eclecticism in an effort to modernize the tradition of England in the circumstances where a number of trends and styles exist together, with their own uniqueness and values.
This study is to examine the factors affecting success of business withhigh accomplishments in customer recognition and financial aspect in the fashion industry. In addition, through survey on consumers and interviews on industry officials who concerned fashion brand, perceived success factors were compared between consumer and industry groups. This study selected a total of 20 brands, which were 5 brands per 4 categories(e.g., women, men, sports and casual wear), with high customer satisfaction and customer loyalty in consumer's perspective and high revenues, revenue growth, and profit rate in 2004 in a financial perspective. The survey on consumer group and interviews on officials in industry were conducted simultaneously. One thousand respondents were obtained from survey on consumers and 40 respondents were obtained from interviews on industry officials. Multiple regression analysis and t-test were used for data analysis via the SPSS 12.0 program. The result of this study was as following. From a consumer perspective, respondents recognized that both consumer satisfaction and brand revenues were positively related to brand factors of consumer, product and marketing. From an industry's perspective, consumer, product and marketing factors affected consumer satisfaction as a brand success factor. In comparison of perception difference in brand success factors between consumer and industry groups, industry group was more likely to concern about the importance of brand success than consumers. In addition, the consumer group perceived the most highly consumer factor as a brand success factor, followed by product and marketing and external environment factors, while industry group did in order of consumer, marketing, product, and external environment factors, which indicated significant difference in perceptions of the two groups. Through this study on consumer satisfaction to improve positive and amicable buying behavior and comparative analysis on difference of perception of consumers and industry on factorsfor financial ability and revenue increase, the foundation for strategy establishment of brand distinction in fashion industry can be provided.
The purpose of this study was to understand the factors with consumers' fashion experiential store experiences and investigate the effect on flow and brand attitude. The study also aimed to investigate whether gender moderated the relationship between consumers' fashion experiential store experiences and flow. An online survey of consumers in their 20s and 40s was conducted. The SPSS 27.0 program was used to perform frequency, factor, and reliability analysis. The structural equation model was analyzed using the SMART-PLS program. The structural model analysis confirmed that consumers' rational, physical, and relational experiences in fashion brand experiential stores strongly influenced flow and found that relational experience had the strongest influence on flow. The influence of rational, physical, and relational experiences and flow on brand attitude was confirmed, where flow had the strongest effect on brand attitude. The examination of the moderating effect of gender on the relationship between consumers' fashion experiential store experiences and flow found that the effect in men was significant for flow and brand attitude through rational experience and that the effect in women was significant for flow and brand attitude through relational experience. These results provide academic implications, and by strengthening consumer flow, we intend to propose the establishment of a marketing strategy and opportunity plan that can elicit a positive brand attitude.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of goth image which have had influence on literature, film, music and art, in modern fashion. The method of this study is to analyze the documentary about gothic and goth, and the fashion magazines since 2000. The results of this study are as follows: First, sensuality shows the excessive exposure of body and inner wear, and emphasizes a resistance of sexual consciousness and a image of independent, active, powerful woman. Second, androgyny shows the goth women wearing a men's cloth and encourages a person to have a perfect being and satisfaction. Third, horror shows the symbol of death and suggests a substance of desire hidden in our mind. Fourth, historicity shows victorian fashion which have a romance of gothic and baroque, not a cult but a modern image. In conclusion, goth image in modern fashion does not show a substance negative and horrorful, but a substance positive as a perfection, satisfaction, a sense of freedom, obliteration of a feeling of uneasiness and powerful woman's image.
The purpose of this study was to test the discriminant analysis model of Quick Response system and to examine the detailed relationship between each discriminant factor and Quick Response adoption. In this discriminant analysis model of Quick Response system, firm size, strategic type, product category, fashion trend, selling time and the Quick Response benefits were included as discriminant factors. Onehundred and two subjects were randomly selected for the survey study and discriminant analysis, descriptive analysis, t-test, and x square test were used for the data analysis. The results of this study were: 1. Wilks Lambda and F value support the discriminant analysis model that, taken together firm size, strategic type, product category, fashion trend, selling time and the Quick Response benefits significantly help to explain Quick Response adoption. 2. The importance of discriminant ability was, in order, firm size, the Quick Response benefits, women's wear, fashion trend, analyzer, selling time, reactor, defender and men's wear. 3. The discriminant function had the high hit ratio, so this can be well used for the classification of Quick Response adoption/nonadoption.
Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.21
no.6
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pp.1082-1093
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1997
The purpose of this study was to identify characteristics and consumer attitude on purchasing apparel through Cable TV home-shopping. The questionnaire was administered to 4y5 May through September in 1996 and the data were analyzed by using frequency, factor analysis, crosstab, 1-test, ANOVA, MANOVA, scheffe with utilizing SPSS/PC+ The results of this study were as follows: 1. The most favorite media in purchasing apparel through home-shopping was Cable TV in all over ages except 50's. Women showed Cable TV the most interested, whereas men showed printed media and computer on-line shopping as home shopping media. 2. Home-shopping favor in region' was higher than that of Seoul. In the degree of favor, college students showed the highest, followed by part time employees, housewives and full time employees. Those who lived individual houses in other than Seoul area showed higher purchasing intention. 3. Sweater item was shown as the highest purchasing interested item and coat/business suit items were shown as lower among 10 different apparel items. 4. Five dimensions of Perceived benefits of apparel purchasing through Cable TV were derived by factor analysis such as variety of merchandise information, purchase convenience, efficiency, saving time, and convenience of physical inactivity. The convenience of physical inactivity showed the most important benefit through Cable TV home-shopping. Perceived risk of apparel purchasing through Cable TV was factor analyzed as merchandise related risk, size and appearance related risk, delivery related risk, TV watching related risk, and unplanned purchasing related risk. The sixte and appearance related risk was shown as the highest risk.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.30
no.9_10
s.157
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pp.1476-1484
/
2006
This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Tuxedo-Look in the modern women fashion from 1990s to the present. It could contribute to understand the aspects and the sense of beauty of the modern fashion. This study is performed by reviewing the precedent studies, related literature and deploying fashion portfolios, domestic and international fashion magazines for the exploratory study. The results of the study are the following. First, Tuxedo-Look expresses the androgenous image which weakens the superficial message of masculinity or femininity and produces the unified image of men and women. Tuxedo-Look, a symbolic male dress item, is brought in the women clothes and it is recreated by design modification, new wearing style, and producing effects. Second, Tuxedo-Look emphasizes femininity by using a exposure and body line stressed design and matching the women dress items with various materials and colors or tuxedo. Third, Tuxedo-Look suggests a dismantling point of view such as exaggeration, distortion, secession, and breaking from the convention. Tuxedo-Look expresses uncertain value by breaking up the symbolic valueby coordinating with casual items and denies formal construct of tuxedo such as perfect balance, symmetrical silhouette, formality, totality.
Men's clothing has been recently giving higher market shares to the ready-made clothes rather than the custom-tailored clothes. With many active studies on the human body and design, the ready-made clothes win popularity due to their rapid repairing, various design, and cheap prices, though they are not perfect suitable for some people. Therefore the ready-made has a weak point unable to consider all of the individual physical characteristics. However the custom-tailored clothes ate able to make clothing perfectly suitable lot their customers, though they require longer time-taking and expensive costs. In this context, this paper is design and implementation an automatic design edit system to provide a rapid and cheap service for customers on the ground of the custom-tailored clothes. In other words, this paper intended to use computer systems lot rapidly and precisely providing design dependent on the individual physical characteristics including a distorted bodies, types of the leg, and a height of the shoulder. To do so, the paper using not only studies on the human body and the custom-tailored clothes but also technical know-hows planned design for each individual body by LISP language and automatically process the design through CAD system. Consequently, the rapid and precise processing has reduced inventories and production costs, leading to supplying high quality clothes at lower prices.
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