• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.97-110
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• 2006

The value that evaluates ancient Oriental civilization and culture is Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀: the view that China is only good country and the others are savages) as Confucianism. Generally, Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) includes cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) as Confucian culture is only superior, Han-centered racial Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀), and country-centered geographical Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀). As times goes on, instead racial and geographical Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) is diluted, cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) was just emphasized. The value of cutural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) is presented on dressing system and hair style becoming an issue in Confucian culture. This study intends to research how Hwa-i-ron in latter period of Chosun influenced the view of Ching men's hair style, pigtail. For this study, 5 books of Yeon-hang-rok in $17{\sim}18$ centuries are chosen, but some parts of them would be selected concerning with hairdressing and would be studied with other documents. Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) had dominated in the latter period of Chosun and had been making proprieties, then geographical and racial Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) were disappeared when Ching had been building a big cultural country, but cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) had been stronger in latter period of Chosun than before, it had been a standard in all proprieties. After all, not only did cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) become a standard of all proprieties in Chosun, but it was applied to the view of Ching men's hairstyle. So, people thought that pigtail, Ching men's hairstyle, is a custom of the savages. out of Chinese proprieties. Therefore, this cultural Hwa-i-kwan(華夷觀) that Chosun is a real China through taking over Chinese proprieties might be in that age.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.415-428
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• 2004

The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.449-460
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• 2008

PET fabric is used as a regular clothing in the middle-east region which is called Chador as a women's clothing and Thobe as a men's clothing. Then there is a big difference of export price according to the minute hand characteristics of the PET fabrics, of which characteristics are due to the fibre and manufacturing process characteristics. This research surveys the optimum manufacturing conditions related to the fibre and fabric for the Thobe clothing which were developed in this study through comparison with high price Teijin Thobe manufactured in Japan. In this research, four kinds of Teijin fabrics made in Japan were prepared as a target quality specimen, and five kinds of developed fabrics were produced as an experimental specimens. These specimens were made by changing yarn denier, twist, yarn setting conditions and fabric density, which are also changed by twist contraction, weaving and finishing shrinkages. As a result of this study, the sensitive characteristics of Teijin Thobe fabrics can be analysed from fibre and fabric, and then the manufacturing design technology was constructed under the base of low twist texturing and 3 dimensional fabric design simulation technologies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.195-207
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to observe the rapidly changing men's fashion style in the contemporary society and to analyze the features related to the major-subject groups, male university students. This information could be used for clothing companies to plan commodities, divide markets, and develop designs. The results are as follows. First, several opinions were varied among students' majors. For the opinion about the male students focusing on their external appearance, the students from all majors said that it depends on individual preference. For 4 reasons of external appearances, students from all majors frequently said that they should adjust their external appearance for employment. For the opinion about what is considered the most in the purchase of clothing, most of the students considered about the design of the cloth. For the opinion about influences on the purchase of clothing, major of the students were influenced by their friend or colleague. on the other hand, the students from artistic talent and physical education mentioned other opinion that it depends that it depends on situation and own intention is most important. Second, for the question about clothing behavior, with regard to monthly average shopping control expense, the students from all majors mentioned the amount less than KRW 50,000. For the opinion about the number of shopping, most student mentioned once a season. For the opinion about the store to purchase dress, most students mentioned the use of large shopping mall but the students from business administration and economy mentioned the use of discount store. Third, for the question about preferred style and preferred brand, with regard to the opinion about usual style, the students from all majors have worn casual style. For the opinion about the preferred style, most students mentioned casual style. For the opinion about man's accessory wearing, the students from all majors mentioned that it is good and for the opinion about coordination item, most students mentioned bag.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.460-471
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• 2023

This study aimed to analyze the consumption value and clothing pursuit benefits of genderless fashion based on gender identity. The study questionnaire was distributed to and collected from men and women in their 20s and 30s living in Seoul City and the Gyeonggi province. The collected data were analyzed by using Cronbachs α, factor analysis, K-means group classification analysis, and ANOVA. The study results were as follows. First, gender identity was categorized into three groups: the genderless group, the traditional gender rejection group, and the traditional gender acceptance group. Therefore, it is necessary to subdivide gender identity rather than acceptance and rejection of traditional gender roles. Second, an analysis of consumption value based on gender identity showed significant differences in terms of fashion value and expressive value. Therefore, it is important to establish a differentiated strategy based on the relevant gender identity group when establishing genderless fashion design or marketing strategy. Finally, the study results showed that clothing pursuit benefits based on gender identity, there was a significant difference in terms of individuality pursuit, deviation from the norm, and fashion pursuit. In particular, since the genderless phenomenon agrees with the characteristics of the MZ generation, it will be necessary to share brand information or product information through digital media or to utilize a sharing culture-that is, 'meaning out' tendency and 'flex culture' (i.e., conspicuous consumption).

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.11
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• pp.171-178
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• 2006

Recently more than ever, interest in Korean tradition has been on the increase, with an active movement to follow tradition. There are various merits for expression with the use of Korean paper as a clothing material. The purpose of this study was to assess the aesthetic characteristics of men's shirts fashioned using Korean paper (Hanji). The following conclusions were obtained from an analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of Hanji shirts. First, Hanji has a peculiar texture, with natural characteristics due to the direct use of naturally handcrafted materials. Hanji shirts have the natural beauty of pure Hanji, without artificial treatment or other subsidiary materials, with the exception of thread. Secondly, Hanji shirts with decorative details and trimmings, such as frills, pin tuck, embroidery and spangles, express an ornamental beauty. Thirdly, Hanji shirts with frills or a fringe have real movement when worn and spangles give the illusion of movement due to changes in color or twinkling caused by light giving the beauty of rhythmical motion. Fourthly, Hanji shirts produced using the application of various techniques, such as crumple, painting and dying, express artistic beauty. Fifthly, Hanji shirts can express traditional beauty, even if created whit modem designs, but using traditional materials.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.11
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• pp.85-107
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• 2004

This study classified figure types of adult males into several kinds of shape to provide fundamental data for their clothing sizing system. The subjects were 1496 men aged between 20 and 60 years old. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis and discriminant analysis. The results were as follows 1. For the result of the interview, the data were grouped into three age brackets: 20-35,31-45 and 41-60 years. 2. Factor analysis using values, which were measurements divided by either weight or height, was carried out to extract factors which characterize the various figures. fve factors to determine the figure types were extracted. 3. Cluster analysis using factor scores was carried out to categorize the figure types within the age groups. Figure types, describing shoulder angie and body shape, were categorized into 3 per age group. 4. Stepwise discriminant analysis w3s used to ensure that these clusters could be utilized with appropriate hit ratio. The hit ratio for each age group was around 80%.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.65-74
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• 2013

The visual sensibility and preferences are closely related with color combinations, stripe intervals, and stripe complexity. We studied the effect of stripes characteristics on visual sensibility and preferences for men's shirts fabrics. As a result of a factor analysis, the adjectives were classified by viewers into 5 factors as attraction, maturity, dignity, practicality, and simplicity. We found that stripe intervals had a significant visual effect on maturity, dignity, and practicality. The uneven stripes had higher scores for dignity and practical while lower for mature. The stripes with consecutive order of two different thickness were felt more strongly in attractive, practical, and preferred. The results also showed that stripes with compound and contrast colors were attractive and preferred.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.156-165
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the influence of major variables and their relationship with the males' appearance consciousness that affect the men's cosmetic consumption. Also, the study also intended to verify the differences of men's cosmetic consumption between Chinese and Thai males. The samples consisted of 200 males who ranged in age from 18 to 35 years (M=24.64). One hundred participants were Thai and one hundred were Chinese. Based on literature review, six research questions were proposed. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test, and multiple regression were used for this study. As the results, the sociocultural attitudes of consumers towards their appearance are positively relevant to the self-esteem and public self consciousness. Also, appearance consciousness such as appearance evaluation and appearance orientation led more cosmetic consumption. Chinese males revealed higher scores on public self-consciousness, appearance orientation, and sociocultural attitudes toward appearance than Thai males. Based on these results, some implications for global cosmetic markets would be suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.9_10 s.146
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• pp.1265-1273
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• 2005

The objective of this study is to examine the images of the current uniforms and to provide the basic references in designing female flight attendants uniforms. In Incheon International Airlines, 11 of the major airlines with the most passengers along with the highest capacity were chosen and 22 pieces of photographs were collected, two photos coming from each airline companies. The semantic differential scale has been formed by 16 pairs of adjectives. Then, it has conducted a statistical analysis using a SPSS WINDOWS that contains 475 copies of the selected questionnaires (375 of the non-flight attendants, and 100 of the female flight attendants). The following are the results and the conclusion of this study. According to this study, four main components of the uniforms of the female flight attendants were attractiveness, femininity, noticeability, and activity, which have occupied $65.9\%$ of the total variance. It was concluded that attractiveness and femininity were two main factors in perceiving the females' uniforms. According to the results of the uniform image difference, it was shown that Asiana Airline's uniform is the most attractive and Cathay Pacific Airline uniform is the most feminine. The most noticeable uniform was from Singapore airline which included cultural and traditional components of its own national colors. Pants suits of Lufthansa airline and Northwest airline were shown as the most active uniforms. There were significant differences in uniform images according to subjects' gender, age, education, and occupation. Men perceived uniforms more attractive, feminine, and active than women. People over 40 perceived uniforms more attractive, feminine, and active, and the High School graduates perceived uniforms more feminine and active. On occupational basis, Federal workers and Educators perceived uniforms more active on uniforms. Passengers who take planes once a month perceived uniforms more attractive, feminine, and active.