• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제25권4호
• /
• pp.458-475
• /
• 2017

Opera is the most comprehensive musical art. In recent years, contemporary opera worlds has seen a variety of attempts to reinterpret operas of the past in a modern light. This has resulted in a dramatic change in the production of musical style and stage art. The purpose of the study was to modernize and streamline opera costumes by extending the scope of existing stage costume design, through the reinterpretation and application of the decorative elements in the Middle Age of Rococo, such as ruffles, frills, shirring, embroidery, buttons, etc., in such a way as to effectively communicate the moods of an opera to a modern audience. The costumes of the Rococo period were reinterpreted in a modern way, with the following results. First, in this work, the male main character was played by a bass to express the image of an older, lazy, rich man. A key element in modernizing the stage costume was selection of the costume color in such a way as to visually represent the voice tones sung by the major characters in the opera. Second, the maid hat and aprons were decorated with frills by applying the curves of Rocaille decoration from the Rococo period symbolize the role of the maids. This represented the distinction between occupation according to class and status at that time, while also expressing the ideals of modern feminine beauty. This makes for more comfortably-worn costumes, and is economical for production expenses. In the future, the stage costume design for classical opera will need to be revised consideration of a modern viewpoint.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제8권1호
• /
• pp.7-16
• /
• 2006

What enabled Armany to grow into a world fashion designer is based on two factors : postmodernism of the new spirit of the times and the fashion industry of Italy, his mother country. That is, his capability to connect the spirit of the times with his works and use local advantage for his works led him to be a maestro of fashion circles. Founding on his outstanding ability, he established his own world of unique design, where his philosophy of design remained. This philosophy was a distinctive character from other designers. Since he was founded on this philosophy, his own features that other designers can't imitate are dissolved in his designs. Armany is very suggestive to our design circles which look for globalization of fashion. A fashion designer should look straight at the fact that the final aim of fashion is to satisfy customers who buy it. In addition, he should recognize that understanding customers' demands and developing products with his fashion style in accordance with them are the way to success and study new things continually by setting up the direction of the future based on the recognition. It is essential to cultivate sensitivity to create a new beauty from a basis just like Armany expresses modern women's image by harmonizing rationality and functionality, the existing male features, with female pliability adequately. As well, the analyses of design made by Armany are thought to be helpful in reestablishing fashion design education so that unique design styles may be maintained and future-oriented international fashion products may be produced.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제23권2호
• /
• pp.212-225
• /
• 2021

With the recognition of YouTube as an information search tool, YouTube creators have subsequently become sources of information to consumers. Accordingly, this study aims to analyze the consumers' response of famous fashion YouTubers in Korea, and to identify differences in consumer response based on the gender and generation of YouTubers. During the period from the opening of fashion creators' YouTube channels, we collected postings on blogs and Internet cafes using textom. As a result of preliminary investigation, six fashion YouTubers were selected. First, all the selected fashion YouTubers were well recognized by consumers as fashion informants. However, Milanonna has been shown to act as a life advisor and as an informant for luxury brands at the same time. Second, female fashion YouTubers were perceived with themes related to daily life, beauty, emotions, and mood rather than fashion itself; whereas, male fashion YouTubers appeared to be more interested in fashion accessories, especially with respect to the basic style. Third, Generation Z fashion YouTubers used the most non-fashion keywords, and their Millennial counterparts used keywords related to fashion items and product purchase properties. However, consumer response to OPAL fashion YouTubers have emerged with items such as life experiences, wisdom, and advice. Moreover, OPAL fashion YouTubers showed a variety of consumer assessments and the YouTuber's personal background. This study's analysis of the differences in the consumer response to fashion YouTubers based on gender and age enables the establishment of an appropriate strategy to attract target consumers and identify their appeal points.

• 조형예술학연구
• /
• 제6권
• /
• pp.140-202
• /
• 2004

Body means 1)the whole structure and substance of a man, animal, or plant 2) the trunk or torso of a man or animal 3) part of garment that covers the trunk 4) the fresh or material substance, as opposed to the spirit. Human body could be distinguished as fresh and spirit. Body has the meaning of physicality. Physical means the bodily and constitution, but in the meaning of constitution there is the content of spirituality. Physicality means the appearing or arising of trace or image or nuance of body. The paintings which are using bodies are 1) directly draw bodies 2) twisting or transformation or nuance of the body and highly upgrade the physical emotion or fantastic bodily nuance 3) directly rubbing artist's body on the surface of painting with pigments to elect tactile specification. These physical art have appeared broadly by various artists, mainly with the social aspects of sex, drug, psycho sexual issues. In case of Joel peter Whitkin, the reason of strong physicality in the art is from the mind of the rejection and resistance of real world which is targeting top, perfect and beauty. Further explanation, being the world which is separated top and under, men and women, beauty and ugly; further in the situation, the hierarchy, terror and pressure began and many difficult problems has derived. The contents of attacking feminists's art works are very obscene to reveal female and male's phallus strongly. Sometime, it is strongly related in the political issues. The physical paintings have strong meanings in the action by hands and feet. It supports that it could reveal the humanity with smell, breath, and traces of bodies. In the bodies, the origin of life begins which gives human life by blood lines and water. Sometime, the physical paintings are made by the blood and urine to stick the physicality for special nuance. The physical paintings are made by the image of penis and clitoris which are related in the image of urinating, ejaculation and sometime is symbolized as pens and candles to drop liquid. The selected painters who are related in physical painting are Jackson Pollock, Andrea Serano, Eve Klein, Francis Bacon, Francesco Clemente, Lichard Long, Jakes & Dinos Chapman, Anselm Kiefer, Kiki Smith and Park, Ki Woong. Francis Bacon's style is destructive in representing human shapes which give us special message about the unbearable activity of men politician, high brain, wealthy and religious people. Francesco Clemente's method is to use throat, ear hole, mouse, clitoris, belly nostrils and every holes of body to transmute human physical body. Lichard Long uses directly his body in drawing the surface of painting by using liquid of mud Jakes & Dinos Chapman destroys or transforms the bodies of human. It sometime appears wrong location of the bodies that the penis and vulva is in between human faces or nose of women, Anselm Kiefer uses human hair for representing the human decaying martyrs, and indirectly using straw, he gives special ritual action to repent the Nazi's fault. From 2002 to 2003, Park KI Woong used women womb images to intermingle the smoke shape of <9.11 terror, 2001> in New York to reveal the painful situation of the time(*).

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제10권2호
• /
• pp.83-98
• /
• 2006

With the subjects of male consumers in their 20s to 40s living in the Ningbo area in Zhejiang Province, this study aims to investigate into the reality of their purchase attitude and size fitness of ready-made suits. The results are as follows; Looking into their demographic characteristics, 70.6% of the subjects were twenties, 60.6% were single, and educational career stood in the order of college, middle school, and high school graduation. They were largely absorbed in free trade, followed by teaching, commerce and service industry. 59.6% of them were Zhejiang Province belongs. One to two thousand yuan was the greatest portion of their monthly income. As for their purchase attitude of ready-made suits, they thought higher of material, quality, activity, and solidity than of design. They preferred to buy clothes at a department store. There was significant difference between purchase frequency and purchase price according to monthly income and jobs. Concerning brand recognition, the Chinese subjects favored "Youngor." Though Korea's brands were very lowly recognized, Korean products received really high recognition. Compared with China's brands, they found foreign brands excellent in design, followed by material/matter, wear, and sewing. As to their physical satisfaction and the size fitness of clothes, most subjects felt happy with their sizes. Trousers and jackets were among the unfitting suit items, while the girth of waist was the least satisfactory size. Therefore, in order to raise the market occupation rate of Korean suit goods in China, more aggressive marketing strategies are required to utilize the current Korean-style entertainment and maximize concerning brand images. In particular, outstanding products in consideration of prices should be made through the proper patternmaking to reflect the body types of the Chinese.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.131-142
• /
• 1998

20세기 초반기에 왕성한 작품활동을 하여왔던 구수타브 클림트는 새로운 시대에 걸맞는 새로운 정신을 발휘하여 새로운 조형성을 추구하며 총체적인 개념으로 작품활동을 전개하였다. 클림트는 그의 작품을 통해 심미적인 요소를 추구하고자 하였으며 인간을 대우주안의 소우주로서 표출하였고, 우주만물의 생성과 죽음의 과정을 여성을 매개체로 표현하였다. 클림트의 패턴은 원, 삼각형, 그리고 나선형으로 나타난다. 원은 우주, 여성을 상징하고, 삼각형은 인간을 상징하며, 사각형은 지구와 남성을 상징한다. 나선형은 돌고 도는, 끌고 당기는 우주의 힘을 상징한다. 클림트는 음과 양, 곡선과 직선, 난색과 한색의 대비를 통하여 그의 상징성을 더욱 강화시켰다. 패턴과 색상의 사용법을 통하여 그의 우주관을 상징적으로 표현하였던 클림트의 작품은 이차원적인 성격을 매우 강하게 나타낸다. 상징성을 표출하기 위하여 장식적인 패턴의 정교함을 보여주었던 클림트의 작품은 패턴디자인에 자주 응용되어 오고 있다. 그의 작품은 홈 퍼니싱 용도와 어패럴 용도의 텍 스타일 디자인으로 응용되어 왔으며, 스테인드 글래스와 타일로 제작되어 실내를 장식하며 포스터나 악세사리 용품에 응용되어 대중들의 삶에 깊이 침투되어 왔다. 이러한 디자인들은 클림트의 패턴들의 특성을 살리면서 각 디자인용도에 부합되게 레이아웃과 기법을 달리하는 방법에서부터 클림트의 작품을 전반적으로 소화시켜 그 느낌을 간결히 추상화하여 표출하는 방법에 이르기까지 클림트의 작품이 다양하게 해석되어 응용되어 오고 있다. 본 논문은 클림트 작품에 나타난 패턴들을 연구함으로 패턴디자인의 새로운 창의적인 방향을 제시하고자 한다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제28권11호
• /
• pp.1395-1403
• /
• 2004

Exposure and Concealment have been continued as important way to express fashion and theme as well, especially in women fashion. Exposure can make themselves attractive, and concealment emphasizes this way of being attractive by exposure. Besides the temptable effect of exposure, the ideology which put women next men in society has made a prominence on the fact exposure is significant theme in women fashion. It means that women's image of 'Being seen as Object' (this can be explained by relation passive between active) in society has driven female emphasize in using and focusing on exposure to be attractive. Also the other important thing in women fashion has been considered is concealment. The fact that society has demand women more chaste duty in detail may have meaningful thing in the condition that instigates women take off being attractive to the subject, considering ideology, men. Therefore attractive femininity has to be suggested by virtue and temptation, it is common sense that looking just shallow or too strict are far from criteria of ideal beauty. Namely, the concept for exposure coexists with concealment not only constructively but also naturally in fashion. Technique that can be accentuate for effective exposure differently from method to show unilaterally is needed, and this technique can promote new fashion. And according to the theory of Freud, women means' Absence (lacking penis)', this female's Lack Image induces male castration complex therefore 'Fetishistic Look' which transfers something phallic into specific things or parts of body is adopted, sort of object cathexis. This is revealed as some parts of women body are diverted into object for sexual love, symbolic equivalent. For example, women's parts like legs or breast are remarked as erotogenic zone and as time goes, when no more the zone are felt sexual by exposure, other somewhere felt mysterious (felt something sexual) used to be stressed by exposing. As it were, it can be possible that exposing part on women body (sexual part) moved as time passed because of what previously stated. Especially, the concept of exposure and concealment in women fashion should explain not only from a point of view of style for the beautifulness but also from wearer's immanent intention, further more relationship with ideology. About the present situation becoming bolder in women fashion, it is said that women express confidence as the position of women is elevated higher socially, the more women get freedom. But if we consider this psychoanalysis opinion mentioned ahead, the possibility can not be excluded that the exposure can get emphasizing according as the need of feminine modesty gets decreasing from ideal femininity society, men want. This study about exposure and concealment was made progressed through the theory of Freud who originated psychoanalysis, presented many theories. But nowadays contradictions are being brought up against Freud's theory including conventional philosophy like male chauvinism and adjust studies get suggested. Hereupon, there may be limitation in making no allowance of contradiction and following his theory.