• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
• /
• v.4 no.3 s.14
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 2004

In this study, the change of the current in the coastal zone before and after the construction of Jeju new harbor was predicted by using the numerical model, which uses Hardy-Cross method. The numerical model was carried out for the present state, before the construction, and the state after the construction, and for the wave direction the NNW direction for winter and NE direction for summer were tested so that the seasonal change may be considered. The computation result shows that a large amount of the wave induced current was occurred when there were high waves coming in from NNW direction before and after the construction. Also, before the construction a longshore current occurred moving from the west to the east at the new harbor construction site so that it formed a rip current in the Hwabuk-dong front sea. And also, after the construction, the tip current produced changed into nearshore circulating current and a small circulating current appeared at the harbor entrance. On the other hand, at Samyang 4each, which is 3.0km away from the new harbor in the NE direction, shows that there was a longshore current occurred from the west to the east, which is in the opposite direction the new harbor, and the effect on the new harbor by sediment transport at Samyang beach is thought to be very small.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.29 no.6
• /
• pp.350-362
• /
• 2017

The Eulerian nearshore current model is more advantageous than the Lagrangian model in the way that numerical results from the Eulerian model can be directly compared with the measurements by the stationary equipment. It is because the wave mass flux is not included in the computed mass flux of Euleran nearshore current model. In addition, the Eulerian model can simulate the longshore currents with depth varying parabolic profile. However, the numerical models proposed by different researcher have different forms of the wave stress terms. For example, wave stresses in Newberger and Allen's (2007) model is constant over the depth, while those of Chun (2012) are vertically distributed. In the present study, these wave stress terms were compared against Hamilton et al.'s (2001) laboratory experiments to see the effects of different wave stress terms performed on the computation of nearshore currents.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.26 no.3
• /
• pp.131-139
• /
• 2014

Infra-gravity waves (IGWs) with a period of 1~3 minutes are a factor that directly influences the motion analysis of moored ships inside a harbor and longshore sediment transport analysis. If significant levels of IGWs from far seas are transferred to a harbor and amplified, they may cause downtime of large ships and induce economic loss. In this study, transfer characteristics of the IGWs intruding from outside to inside Pohang New Harbor were analyzed using statistical analysis and transfer function of wave data measured at both outside and inside the harbor for around 5 years. Transfer characteristic analysis was limited to events where IGWs had wave heights above 0.1 m. The wave height distribution of inside the harbor was similar to that of outside the harbor, while the wave period variance of the former was larger than that of the latter. The parameters of the transfer function was optimally estimated according to each event. The estimated average RMS error of the wave height inside the harbor was around 0.013 m. The estimated parameters had a strong correlation with the linear combination information of IGW wave height, period, and direction (R = 0.95). The transfer function suggested in this study can quickly and easily estimate information on IGWs inside the harbor using IGW information predicted beforehand, and is expected to reduce damage due to unexpected restrictions on harbor usage.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.32 no.6
• /
• pp.384-395
• /
• 2020

Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions, such as sediment transport, longshore currents, and shock wave pressure. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker index such as breaking wave height and breaking depth, when designing coastal structures. Numerous scientific efforts have been made in the past by many researchers to identify and predict the breaking phenomenon. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this paper, we applied a representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a model for prediction of the breaking index is developed from previously published experimental data on the breaking wave, and a new linear equation for prediction of breaker index is presented from the trained model. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation.