• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.238-245
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• 2015

Recently, Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves, the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation. Based on the Boussinesq modeling, this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations, which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field, on the rip currents. As a result, transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.350-362
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• 2017

The Eulerian nearshore current model is more advantageous than the Lagrangian model in the way that numerical results from the Eulerian model can be directly compared with the measurements by the stationary equipment. It is because the wave mass flux is not included in the computed mass flux of Euleran nearshore current model. In addition, the Eulerian model can simulate the longshore currents with depth varying parabolic profile. However, the numerical models proposed by different researcher have different forms of the wave stress terms. For example, wave stresses in Newberger and Allen's (2007) model is constant over the depth, while those of Chun (2012) are vertically distributed. In the present study, these wave stress terms were compared against Hamilton et al.'s (2001) laboratory experiments to see the effects of different wave stress terms performed on the computation of nearshore currents.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.50-55
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• 1999

Gao and Collins method (two-dimensional sediment transport trend-vector model) using grain-size parameters (mean grain size, sorting coefficient, and skewness) calculated by the statistical moment method is introduced to understand semi-quantitatively the sandy and surficial sediment transport trends on a coast of the East Sea. The result is the sediment transport vectors which indicate transport paths of surficial sediment by wave-induced currents. The corresponding morphological feature is a spit developed at the mouth of the Nam¬dae stream, which is a resultant sediment transported by longshore current and is blocking the circulation of ocean. After this, it is thought that seasonal research and hydrodynamic measurements are needed for verification of the results.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.595-605
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• 1994

The field observations. data analyses and numerical experiments are performed to investigate the short and long term beach deformation mechanisms in Haeundae beach. The schematic diagrams of deposition and erosion mechanism due to the attack of typhoons are described from the analysis on the beach widths and profiles. The short term beach deformation depends strongly on the characteristics of incident waves and wave-induced currents. The main incident wave and the calibration parameters of the shoreline change model are determined using the beach width data. Beacause the main incident wave approaches obliquly from the SE direction, the net westward longshore sediment transport occurs. Therefore the unbalance of longshore sediment budget in the east of the beach where the sediment source dose not exist causes a beach erosion. On the other hand, the deposited sand in the west is lost offshore by the storm wave action.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.663-671
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• 2013

The width of Haeundae beach has been decreasing annually due to the loss of sand from land, high waves, reflected waves, etc.. The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport. In the this study, Numerical experiments were performed with seasonal representative wave on the basis of a long term and comprehensive survey data. In summer, we found the deposition of Mipo by longshore current eastly by ordinary and S waves, and in winter, the deposition of Dongback-island by longshore current westly by ordinary and E waves. In addition, rip current occurs in the middle of Haeundae beach by 50 year return period wave and current westly along the coast by ESE directional wave.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.59-73
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• 1972

The heavy minerals of a barred estuarine and lagoonal sediments along the North Carolina coast have been studied with more than one hundred samples. Currents, salinity, and pH exhibit well-developed gradients from the upstream parts of the estuaries on the west toward the open ocean on the east. Twenty- four heavy minerals were identified in sediments of the study area. However, less than half of these occur frequently and the remainder exist only in minor quantities or trace amounts. Heavy minerals usually comprise less than 1% of the sample but vary from sample to sample. The maximum amount of heavy minerals in sediments of sounds and estuaries is 2.4% and in sediments of Outer Banks is 16.7%. Opaque minerals range from 10 to 85% of the total heavy mineral assemblage. Garnet and sillimanite are relatively more abundant in the eastern part than the western part in the area. Garnet more abundant in the northern part than the southern part, whereas sillimanite is more abundant in the southern part than the northern part, because the garnet source is in the northern part and one of the sillimanite source is in the southern part in the study area. The results of heavy mineral study indicate that the source of sediments is the Blue Ridge and Piedmont crystalline complex, and Coastal Plain formations. Some portions of sediments are transported from the Atlantic Ocean by the landward currents. They further indicate that the sediments of the Atlantic coast in the study area are transported mainly from the northern part to southern part by longshore littoral currents, and some portions of sediments are transported from the southern part to the northern part by the Gulf Stream.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.693-706
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• 2011

The Geomorphological properties and ages of river-mouth bar at Song-cheon River in the East Coast of Korea, Yeongdeok-gun, Gyeongbuk Province are estimated, and the long-term and short-term changing processes and causes are analyzed. Sand grains of the bar near the coastline show the finer trends from south to north and these can be attributed to the northward movement of waves and long-shore currents. The absolute ages of bar and nearby coastal sand dune are less than approximately 100 years ago, indicating that the bar has experienced the active geomorphological changes. While the inlet located at south part of the bar between 1971 and 1995, the inlet has located at north or middle part since 1995. These may caused by the changes of movement directions of waves and long-shore currents due to the apparent northward movements of winds and currents. In short-term, the higher elevation, larger area, simpler landform relief and more variable location of inlet and morphology of bar can be observed between September and March due to the dominance of sedimentary processes by wave and wind processes.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.166-179
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• 2018

This study aims at numerically investigating the water-surface characteristics such as wave height distribution depending on the current direction around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters in wave-current coexisting field which has not been considered in detail so far. In addition, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy, which act as the main external forces of formation of salient, are also examined. For numerical analysis, olaFlow which is open source code of CFD was used and the numerical tests included different types of target waves, both regular waves and irregular waves. Numerical results indicated that wave height variation with wave following or opposing a current behind the submerged breakwater is closely related to turbulent kinetic energy. Furthermore, it was found that weaker longshore currents are formed under wave-current coexisting field compared to the non-current conditions, and transport flow is attenuated. As a result, it was possible to understand the influence of current existence and direction (following and opposing) on the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 1987

The Sinyangri Formation crops out in the vicinity of the Seongsan Peninsula, Cheju Island. Based on sedimentary structures, texture and composition, the lithologic sequence has been classified, in ascending stratigraphic order, into three lithofacies: parallel laminated sandstone facies (Facies I): conglomerate facies(Facies Il); and cross stratified sandstone facies (F acies Ill). Wedge-to-parallel, seaward-inclined in low angle less than 10$^{\circ}$lamina -sets with alternations of coarseand fine-grained sediments in the Facies I are the characteristic sedimentary structures in the foreshore depositional environment. Grains of this faciesare well sorted with good roundness compared with the other two facies, partly showing inverse graded bedding. Facies II,largely composed of claset-supported,very poorly-sorted conglomerates,does not pinch out but occurs continuously along the Sinyangri beach.Interstitial spaces between the clasts are mostly infilled with volcanic-ash and small amounts of well-rounded shell fragments.Maximum bed thickness as well as the size of imbedded basaltic clasts decreases to the south(toward Sinyangri). Large clasts with parallel lamination originated from the underlying Facies i,are generally elongated parallel to the bedding plane and display no systematic horizontal variations in size indicative of in-situ clasts.In view of the facts above it seems that large gravels from the basaltic rocks are transgressive lag conglomerates which are partly affected by the combination of longshore currents and propagating wave.Local occurrence of cross-strata dipping toward the south in the upper part of Facies IIreinforces the evidence of the action of longshore currents. Facies IIIis characterized by bidirectional trough cross-starifiction and wave ripples associated with the upper shoreface(surfzone) environments.In summary,the Sinyangri Formation represents the depositional environments of foreshore to upper shoreface truncated by disconformity between Facies Iand II.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.