• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.229-234
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• 2002

An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.57-72
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• 2010

The purposes of the research were to find out the clothing construction factors of the mechanical industry working clothes by analyzing the working clothes supplied to 5 subject companies; and to suggest the optimized sewing conditions and the seam strength and elongation experimental data according to the clothing material and seam types implied to the working clothes collected. The fabric types and trimmings used for the mechanical manufacturing working clothes were Polyester/Cotton(65/35%), Polyester/Rayon(65/35%), Cotton(100%); and linings, interlining, various fastenings etc. 2 stitch types, i.e. lock and two-thread chain stitches were applied to the construction of the flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped and bound seams for the seam strength and elongation experiment. The results derived from the experiment were as follows. (1) The seam strength results according to the seam types were high in the order of lap felled>lapped>flat, superimposed and French seams. (2) Considering the features of the seam construction, as the number of fabric layers at the seam line increased the seam strength also increased. (3) Apart from the highest seam strength from the experiment using the net lining with the main fabric, the seam construction consisting of two fabric layers with the interlining showed relatively high seam strength results. (4) The seam elongations according to the stitch types were high in the order of two-thread chain>lock stitches.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.710-717
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• 1997

An investigation made of fabric strength & elongation and the lock stitch seam strength & elongation by stitch density (N1.5; 26 stitches/3 cm, N2.0; 19 stitches/3 cm, N2.5; 14 stitches/3cm) depending on methods of. sample prepariation (angle variations of unseamed sample and overlapping way of seamed sample) It found maximum stitch density that results of the seam strength test was highist in each angle of bias. The results obstained were as follows: 1. As the results of fabric strength and elongation tests as a function of angle of bias, breaking strength were that warp and weft angles (0$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$) were much higher than bias angles (20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$) . And otherwise breaking elongation were that 45$^{\circ}$ angle of bias were highest and were that the warp & weft way were lower. 2. As the results of the seam strength tests by the stitch density under samples of same angles, the maximum stitch density were those; under 0$^{\circ}$/0$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$/60$^{\circ}$:F1, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5, under 20$^{\circ}$/20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$/30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$/45$^{\circ}$: F1-N2.5, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5, under 90$^{\circ}$/90$^{\circ}$: F1, F2, F3-N1.5. 3. As the results of the seam strength tests by the stitch density under samples of symmetry angles, the maximum stitch density were those; under 20$^{\circ}$/-20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$/-30$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$/-60$^{\circ}$: F1, F3-N1.5, F2-N2.0, under 45$^{\circ}$/-45$^{\circ}$: F1, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This study aims at the improvement of sewing function through understandings of dynamic property about the sewing methods and the thread material selection in knitwear. The tensile strength and shear of KES-FB and the Instron were measured for the analysis of the mechanical properties. The knit cloth was structured In the plain stitch, $1\times1$ rib stitch and $2\times1$ rib stitch with the combination of wool and cotton. With regard to the sewing method, intralooping and interlacing were applied. For thread materials, polyester, cotton, wool and silk were used. Since silk has the lowest extension and similar values regardless of its construction in intralooping, it is available knit apparel with uniform elastic recoverv. It also has small shearing resistance. It can be used in apparel which needs big mobility, but it causes rutting problem. Therefore, it is suitable to use intralooping. When the same sewing yarn and textile are use, it can lower shearing resistance and extension in intralooping, Since wool needs a lot of extension energy and it can be cut, intralooping is more suitable than interlacing in sewing of wool. In interlacing using polyester, extension and shearing resistance are high. Therefore, it is suitable for knit sewing with high massing. Silk is not suitable for interlacing since it can be rut. Even though knit materials are different, the RT values of polyester and cotton are similar in same construction. Therefore, they can be substituted each other considering resilience after sewing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.46-55
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• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.116-135
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• 2008

To investigate the actual distribution condition and clothing construction factors of the working clothes supplied to the Changwon national industrial complex, 5 major companies in machinery, automotive, industrial engineering, shipbuilding and rolling stock in the industrial complex located in Gyeongsangnam-Do were selected. The questionnaire designed for the research consisted of working clothes distribution policies in manufacturing industry and the actual conditions of the design facts, repair and maintenance of the working clothes, etc. The analysis of the clothing construction factors of the working clothes provided by 5 respondent companies were conducted in parallel. The results derived from the study were as follows: The basic types of working clothes were the blouson jacket and straight pants; safety equipments for manufacture were safety helmets, gloves, snickers, goggles, masks, ear caps, wristlets, leggings, apron, etc. The size-charts adopted by the participant companies were the small-medium-large and cm/inch measurement size systems. To solve wearer's dissatisfaction with the garment fit, certain clothing construction factors were used, e.g. strap bands and the elastic band on a waist band. The types of fabrics used for the working clothes were mainly polyester/cotton and polyester/rayon blended ones. Moreover, to provide with more air permeability to wearers, the warp knit material was used to construct the lining and the armpit or back bodice slits. Lock, two-thread chain, safety, overedge stitches were applied with flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped, bound and edge finishing seams to construct the working clothes selected.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.4-21
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• 2018

This paper reviewed the legitimacy of the name of those sixteen pieces of hat artifacts known in Korean as pyeongjeongmo and currently housed by the National Palace Museum. This was undertaken in order to rectify the error of calling them pyeongjeongmo. Also, the paper suggested pyeongjeongmo's production method to apply representation of the artifacts or production of Joseon officials' hats as representation of ritual costumes in the royal court. The name pyeongjeongmo originated from pyeongjeonggeon. Gyeongguk Daejeon recorded that noksas wore yugak-pyeongjeonggeon and seoris wore mugak-pyeongjeonggeon, but the pyeongjeongmo artifacts housed in the National Palace Museum have been found irrelevant to those pyeongjeonggeons put on by both noksas and seoris. Rather, they has been confirmed as corresponding to dugeon or jogeon worn by byeolgams or suboks who served at the palace of the crown prince or princess. Through the investigation of the artifacts, the researchers could find out the tailoring and sewing methods, the finished look, and the folding manner of pyeongjeonggeon. Although the structure of pyeongjeonggeon was generally consistent, the frontal look was slightly different depending on the folding manner, resulting in three distinguished types of pyeongjeonggeon. Regardless, the pyeongjeongmo was made with one piece of fabric by a flat tailoring and folding method to create a three-dimensional hat. The finished shape appeared low in the front and high in the back side structure. The head girth was 55~59 cm, and the height was 19.4~21.5 cm. To make it with one piece of fabric, the head girth part was tailored in the same direction as the strands. Based on the artifact Changdeok 23820, this paper has also suggested a finished reproduction through the processes of preparing the materials, mounting, making the center ornaments, sewing and folding. The tailoring was completed with black silk fabric which was cut in a unique shape designed in advance, and hemp fabric which was mounted to the former. The top part of the head was finished with black threads, and the center line at the back was fixed with decolored cotton threads by blanket stitches with 3.5~4 cm intervals. Bamboo strands were inserted in the inside of the front-folded part, which then was fixed by patterned stitches with white cotton thread. At the back, a small bamboo clasp was attached so that one can lock it to the headband and prevent it from falling off.