• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제48권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2022

맞춤형화장품은 화장품산업에서 최근 사회환경의 빠른 변화에 대한 대응, 개성과 다양성을 추구하는 트렌드로서 지속적으로 언급되고 있다. 이에 사업장에서 용이하게 혼합하여 적용할 수 있는 맞춤형화장품 베이스로 리포좀 제형과 에센스 제형의 비율을 달리함으로써 피부타입에 대응한 리포좀 에센스 4 종을 제조하였다. 리포좀 에센스 4 종에 대한 휘발잔분 측정과 90 일 동안의 시간에 따른 나노 입자크기, 다분산지수, 제타전위 및 점도를 측정하였으며, 콜로이드 분산계의 안정성 평가방법으로서 터비스캔을 측정하였다. 또한 피부타입에 대응한 리포좀 에센스 4 종에 대해 간이 사용성 평가를 진행하였다. 결과, 리포좀 에센스 4 종은 지성용보다는 건성용 제품에서 휘발잔분량이 증가하였으며, 입자크기는 165 ~ 175 nm 범위로 시간에 따라 증가 경향을 보여 최대 31.5%까지 증가하였고, 다분산지수는 0.23 ~ 0.26 정도로 시간에 따른 변화는 거의 없었으며, 제타전위는 -74 ~ -72 mV로 시간에 따라 약간 감소 경향을 보이나 최대 14.0% 감소하는 정도로 변화가 거의 없었다. 점도는 2,580 ~ 3,290 cps 범위로 시간에 따라 감소 경향을 보여 최대 17.5% 감소를 보였다. 터비스캔 측정에서는 안정성의 척도인 turbiscan stability index가 모두 1.0 이하로 분산 안정성을 보였다. 피부타입 대응 전체적인 간이 사용성 만족도 평가(6 점법)에서는 중지성 피부용 제품(5.33 ± 0.75 점) > 중건성 피부용 제품(5.13 ± 0.95 점) > 건성 피부용 제품(5.03 ± 0.96 점) > 지성 피부용 제품(4.80 ± 1.04 점) 순으로 평가되었다. 리포좀 제형과 에센스 제형의 비율을 달리한 피부타입 대응 리포좀 에센스 4 종은 물성적으로 안정하며, 피부타입에 따른 맞춤형화장품 베이스로서의 적용 가능성을 확인하였다.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.543-547
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• 2015

We investigated the combined moisturizing effect of liposomal serine and a cosmeceutical base selected in this study. Serine is a major amino acid consisting of natural moisturizing factors and keratin, and the hydroxyl group of serine can actively interact with water molecules. Therefore, we hypothesized that serine efficiently delivered to the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin would enhance the moisturizing capability of the skin. We prepared four different cosmeceutical bases (hydrogel, oil-in-water (O/W) essence, O/W cream, and water-in-oil (W/O) cream); their moisturizing abilities were then assessed using a $Corneometer^{(R)}$. The hydrogel was selected as the optimum base for skin moisturization based on the area under the moisture content change-time curves (AUMCC) values used as a parameter for the water hold capacity of the skin. Liposomal serine prepared by a reverse-phase evaporation method was then incorporated in the hydrogel. The liposomal serine-incorporated hydrogel (serine level=1%) showed an approximately 1.62~1.77 times greater moisturizing effect on the skin than those of hydrogel, hydrogel with serine (1%), and hydrogel with blank liposome. However, the AUMCC values were not dependent on the level of serine in liposomal serine-loaded hydrogels. Together, the delivery of serine to the SC of the skin is a promising strategy for moisturizing the skin. This study is expected to be an important step in developing highly effective moisturizing cosmeceutical products.

• 한국응용과학기술학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.592-599
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• 2019

This study is to stabilize insoluble and unstable active ingredient which is Idebenone (INCI name: hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) in a multi-lamellar vesicle (MLV) and to stabilize it in the skin care cosmetics. Idebenone is good effective raw material in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease in the medical field and a powerful antioxidant in dermatology. It is well known as a substance that inhibits the formation of melanin and cleans the skin pigment. However, it did not dissolve in any solvent and it was difficult to apply in cosmetic applications. Niosome vesicle was able to develop a nano-particle by making a multi-layer of idebenone encapsulated with a nonionic surfactant, hydrogenated lecithin and glycine soja (soybean) sterols and passing it through a high pressure microfluidizer. Idebenone niosome vesicle (INV) has been developed to have the ability to dissolve transparently in water and to promote transdermal penetration. The appearance of the INV was a yellowish liquid having specific odor, and the particle size distribution of INV was about 10~80 nm. The pH was 5~8 (mean=6.8). This capsulation with idebenone was stored in a $45^{\circ}C$ incubator for 3 months and its stability was observed and quantitatively measured by HPLC. As a result, the stability of the sample encapsulated in the niosome vesicle (97.5%) was about 66.3% higher than that of the non-capsule sample of 32.5%. Idebenone 1% INV was used for the efficacy test and clinical trial evaluation as follows. The anti-oxidative activity of INV was 38.2%, which was superior to that of 12.8% tocopherol (control). The melanin-reducing effect of B16 melanoma cells was better than INV (17.4%) and Albutin (control) (9.6%). Pro-collagen synthesis rate was 128.2% for INV and 89.3% for tocopherol (control). The skin moisturizing effect was 15.5% better than the placebo sample. The elasticity effect was 9.7% better than the placebo sample. As an application field, INV containing 1% of idebenone is expected to be able to develop various functional cosmetic formulations such as skin toner, ampoule essence, cream, eye cream and sunblock cream. In addition, it is expected that this encapsulated material will be widely applicable to emulsifying agents for skin use in the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.