• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.699-707
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• 2010

Catechu is widely used as in natural dyeing as well as in various medicines and tannage. This study investigated the dyeing properties and functionality of Catechu through a series of dyeing experiments using cotton fabric. It was shown that the absorbance of Catechu solution has two peaks at 220nm and 280nm. Thus, it can be concluded that the color constituent of Catechu is a catechol tannin and color tone is YR. The dyeability of Catechu increases as the concentration of the dye is increased. Its variation was shown to be similar to the isothermal absorption curve of the Freundlich. As dyeing time was increases, the dyeability did not change significantly after the 30 minute mark was passed. At high temperatures the dyeability was shown to increase. As the dyeing temperature was increased the color of dyeing fabrics changes from Y and YR to R. Experiments with pre-mordanting method showed that various colors can be obtained using Catechu. Cotton is effective in using K, Cu, Fe mordants, and the dyeability was shown to be improved with low pH. Both washing fastness and light fastness were shown to be low. However, the fabric color gradually changed to red was due to mailard reaction of catechol tannin causing by repeated washing and sunlight. The ultraviolet-cut ability was improved for cotton fabric dyed with Catechu. Also, dyed fabric with Catechu showed very good antimicrobial abilities at 99.9%.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.515-522
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• 2017

The natural dyeing industry has been faced with increasing demands of constant needs for environmentally and body friendly clothing products among modern consumers. Natural dyeing has attracted attention as a next-generation technology in green textiles. Dyestuffs need to be diversified for technological development activation in order to meet the increasing demands for natural dyeing. This study extracted dyeing solutions from the leaves of the Rose of Sharon (the national flower of South Korea) and investigated its dyeing properties for the development of various natural dyestuffs. This study investigates the dyeability of silk fabrics with Rose of Sharon leaves extract. Optimal conditions for dyeing of silk fabrics with the extract of Rose of Sharon were $40^{\circ}C/80min$ and $90^{\circ}C/60min$ with 100% concentration. Looking at the results, it showed the best K/S value at pH3, Sn pre-mordanting and Fe post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing and perspiration was good at grade 4-5 or 4. However, light fastness was observed in grade 2. In aspect of functional property, it showed an excellent result of 90% deodorization rate. In addition, its proven functionalities (deodorant properties) will help to produce high value added environment-friendly products. Those findings demonstrate the possibilities of the Rose of Sharon as an environment-friendly dye.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional indigo dyeing. Leaf powder colorants were prepared by hot air($50^{\circ}C$) and room temperanrre($25^{\circ}C$) drying methods from fresh leaves. The presence of indigo in the leaf powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. All the powder colorants showed broad absorption at 602 nm as same as synthetic indigo. Dyeing was done by reduction method with sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. Leaf powder colorants produced blue color on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants prepared at room temperature drying were more stable for long term storage than that prepared by hot air drying. Thus, the powder colorants prepared by room temperature drying was reduced and dyed in one-step process without sodium hydroxide in the dyebath for further investigate dyeing properties. K/S value of the fabric dyed without sodium hydroxide was much higher than one dyed with sodium hydroxide. Regardless of the addition of sodium hydroxide, rubbing fastness was fairly good showing above 4 rating. Fastness to dry cleaning and light of the fabrics dyed without sodium hydroxide were mote higher than that dyed in alkaline condition.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.979-986
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, and the hand of soybean/cotton blended fabric after dyeing with natural and synthetic dyes. Soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with extracted solution from turmeric, sappan wood, gardenia and synthetic dyes(weak-acid dyes, reactive dyes, direct dyes). The hand value of soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with 6 different dyes was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts was the highest. 2. The color fastness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with reactive dyes was excellent. The fastness to the light of the same fabric was much better than the other fabrics. 3. Linearity of load-extension and tensile energy of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts showed very high. Shear stiffness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes was much higher than that of fabric of dyed with reactive dyes. Bending property of the fabrics dyed with natural colorants(sappan wood, gardenia) showed very high, but that the fabric dyed with reactive dyes was very poor. 4. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed the highest. Fullness and softness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed very low.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.516-529
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• 2018

This study investigated the dyeing properties and bio-functions of cotton fabrics dyed with naturally fermented Ecklonia cava extract in order to compare it with a comparison of unfermented extract. Hot water-extracted Ecklonia cava was fermented naturally under the various conditions of a fermenting period (2-8 days) and amount of molasses (0.1-1.8% v/v); in addition, it was also tested for characterization by FT-IR, antioxidant activity, total polyphenol content, and anti-microbial activity. For dyed cotton fabrics, color strength (K/S), physical color properties, dyeing fastness, sun protective property, and anti-microbial activity were evaluated considering dyeing conditions. As a result, the fermented dye under fermentation condition of 0.1% v/v with molasses during 4 days was revealed as having a similar chemical structure to the unfermented one and showed a total polyphenol content with 32.88mg/g and better antioxidant activity than the unfermented one. As for dyed fabrics, the color strength value by K/S was the highest under the condition of 0.1% v/v of molasses during 4 days among all fermenting conditions. The dyed fabrics had a reasonably good fastness (except for light). Anti-microbial activity against K. pneumoniae was better for the fermented extract-dyed fabric especially with lower dye concentrations.

• Polymer(Korea)
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.175-182
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• 2009

Waterborne polyurethanes (WPUs) based on isophorone diisocyanate and mixed polyols of poly(tetramethylene glycol) (PTMG)/polycarbonate diol (PCD) were synthesized. The variation of mechanical and dyeing properties and alkali resistance of the WPU films were analyzed according to the polycarbonate (PC) content. The tensile strength of the films increased and the elongation at break decreased with the PC content in the WPU film. The incorporation of PC component in the WPU film did not affect the alkaline hydrolysis behavior. The synthesized WPU solutions were used as impregnating resins for the production of PET artificial leathers. The prepared WPU resins showed the good color fastness to washing, rubbing, and light of the artificial leather fabrics. The improvement of the properties became greater with the PC content in the WPU resin.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.135-146
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• 2019

A series of azo based disperse dyes were synthesized and applied to polyester(PET) fiber in supercritical carbon dioxide($ScCO_2$). Various aniline derivatives were used as diazo component and coupled with glycine ethylester or carbonic acid ethylester derivatives to give azo based disperse dyes. Depending on the various diazo substituents, absorption maxima varied from 415 to 529nm in acetone. Dyeing in $ScCO_2$ was carried out at $120^{\circ}C$ and 250bar pressure for 2hrs with 0.5% o.w.f. of dye concentration. Dyed PET fiber had excellent brightness and good light, washing and perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.356-362
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• 2019

This study investigated the substantivity of anionic dyes for cationic-modified new rayon (cocell) fabric treated with cationic agent (CA), 3-(Chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)-trimethylammonium chloride (CA). We also investigate the dyeability of cationic-modified new rayon fabric after dyeing with gallut. CA was converted in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide into epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride. Treating with this epoxy reagent modified the hydroxyl groups of the new rayon fabric into the trimethylammonium group through ether linkage. The introduction of new cationic sites into new rayon fabric by pretreating with cationic agent improved the substantivity of the Gallnut dye with the new rayon dyebath. The degree of the cationization of cationic-modified new rayon and cotton fabric was evaluated by nitrogen (N) content. This study extracted the colorant of gallnut with hot water at $90^{\circ}C$ and 120 min. Cationic-modified new rayon fabric dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration of gallnut, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and concentration of cationic agent. Dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation after dyeing with gallut solution. In addition, fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The degree of crystallinity of new rayon and cotton fabric were 42.15% and 54.94%, respectively. N (%) content of cationic-modified new rayon was higher than the cationic-modified cotton. Dyeability (K/S) increased significantly with the increasing concentration of CA and gallut.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.10-23
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• 2021

In order to synthesize the dye suitable for supercritical carbon dioxide(ScCO2) dyeing, a series of azo based disperse dyes were prepared using various aniline derivatives as diazo components and indol derivatives as coupling components. Dyeing process in ScCO2 of the synthesized dyes was performed on PET fiber at 120℃ for 2 hrs under 250bar pressure with 0.5% o.w.f. of dye concentration. The absorption maxima varied from 400 to 580nm depending on the substituted groups in aniline derivatives and the indol derivatives. The dyes showed high molar extinction coefficients(ε) of 27,000~61,000M-1cm-1. Dyed PET fiber exhibited excellent brightness and good light, washing and perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.