• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.221-229
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• 1991

This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.61-74
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• 2013

This study examined and analyzed ancient writing and poetry regarding cases of appreciating plants by using pots in a garden of a palace or private houses by ancestors, and examined shape and planting method of plant species and potted plants, arrangement and preference of potted plants. As for the method of the study, description research method which examines and interprets poem and painting based on potted plants. The results of this study is summarized like the following. First, the plants which were favorably used for potted plants include 19 kinds such as Prunus mume, Pinus densiflora, Pinus pumila, Phyllostachys spp., Camellia japonica, Punica granatum, and Gardenia jasminoidesa, and as for herbs, 12 kinds such as Chrysanthemum monifolium and Nelumbo nusifera . Second, the species which were specially arranged into artificial shapes include Prunus mume and Pinus densiflora. The two plants made the shape of severe curves of stems such as Wangpi. Gyuban, and Bangan, and there are Pinus densiflora dwarfed potted plant whose roots are stretched on Prunus mume grafted into a strange stump and an oddly shaped stone. For the beauty of the dwarfed tree shape, pine cones are added to an old Pinus densiflora or Parthenocissus tricuspidata is planted to stems, and additional method of making moss on the soil, which is called 'Jongbunchuigyeong'. As for planting method, water culture, planting on a stone, planting on a charcoal, and assembled planting are expressed in poetry. Third, as for external space for potted plants, a place where a king stays, a bed room for a king, surrounding areas and gardens of private houses, and step stones were used as a space which adds artistic effects. Potted plants are placed on a table in a library, on a desk, on a drawer, and near a pillow as a small items in a room, and scholars enjoyed original characteristics and symbolism of the potted plants. Fourth, at the time of flowering of Prunus mume, poetry event was held to enjoy the tree and writing poetry begun. And at the time of flowering of Chrysanthemum monifolium, the flowers were floated in a liquor glass or shadow play was enjoyed. Fifth, potted plants played the role of garden ornaments in elegant events of a palace, the gentry, wedding ceremony, and sacrificial rites. Sixth, potted plants were used as tributes between countries, donation to a king, or a gift of a king. In addition, there were many cases where scholars exchanged potted plants and there is the first record of giving a potted plant in 'Mokeunsigo' by Mokeun Isaek, scholar in the late era of Goryeo. Seventh, at the time of flowering Prunus mume, Chrysanthemum monifolium, Gardenia jasminoides, Nelumbo nusifera, and Narcissustazetta var. chinensis, they enjoyed the particular fragrance and express it into poetry. Eighth, plant species from southern parts such as Camellia japonica, Daphne odora, Gardenia jasminoides, Citrus unshiu, Phyllostachys spp., Punica granatum, Rosa rugosa, and Musa basjoo, or foreign plant species, and species weak against the cold were utilized as pot plants for enjoying green trees indoors in northern central province in harshly cold winter.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.2
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• pp.80-98
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• 2023

In the late Joseon Dynasty, when the bride would ride a palanquin when she went to live with her in-laws, it was a custom to cover the palanquin with tiger skin to ward off misfortunes that may come her way. The higher classes used tiger skin or leopard skin for this purpose, but the common people had to substitute this expensive item with a tiger pattern painted on a blanket. Such blankets were called hotanja, hogu, hoguyok and the like. The term "hotanja" is a pure Korean word. It is not known when the cover for the bridal palanquin was first used, but it was popular from the end of the 19^th century and then gradually disappeared. This is due to the introduction of new Western style weddings that eliminated the need for a bridal palanquin. The tiger print blanket was used not only to cover the bride's palanquin but also to cover a table or floor during the wedding ceremony. This study ran a material analysis on nine pieces of tiger print blankets. All of the blanket artifacts examined in this study had an outer cover and a lining made of fabric that used cotton thread for the warp and wool thread for the weft. Two kinds of wool were found in the weft thread in the outer covers: fat-tailed sheep hair from China and goat hair for carpets from the Hebei province, China. Records show that "blankets with painted tiger patterns" were imported from Russia, and the imported blankets were from Russia and China. The outer cover can be categorized into six types, and the lining into three types depending on the weave and direction of the thread twist. The hem facing can be divided into four types. The lining and outer cover use the full width of the fabric, which was woven in wide widths of 135 cm or wider. The tiger pattern on the blanket was made by stenciling. The stencil design of the body and tail of the tiger were placed on a red blanket to be painted in white, and then the background color of the tiger, which is yellow, would be painted over the white, and then black stripes would be added. The pattern of the tiger varies, which shows that the blankets were made by various craftspeople. The pattern of the tiger print blanket is usually of a tiger lying down, but there were tiger print blankets with a tiger standing up. The pattern of the tiger grew smaller over time, and flower patterns were added in the background. Decorative elements were gradually added to the tiger print blanket patterns, but its function as a palanquin cover became lost. By taking the features of tiger print blankets into consideration, it can be assumed that there are imported pieces among the remaining pieces, and were produced in various places because it was popular at that time.