• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.47-62
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the knitwear preferences and purchase behaviors of university students. The subjects were 493 university students in Daejeon and Chungnam Provinces. The method of this study was a survey and measurement instruments were 34 stimuli which were manipulated pullover patterns and shapes and self-administrated questionnaire with knitwear design preference items and knitwear purchase behavior items. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, Cronbach'${\alpha}$, t-test, ANOVA and $Sch{\acute{e}}ffe$ test using SPSS program. The results of the study were as follows. First, university students most preferred achromatic colors, pastel tones, solid patterns, and 100% cotton. Second, as for knitwear purchase behaviors, university students considered the esthetical factor to be most important among 4 dimensions (comfortable, esthetical, economical, and conspicuous factors) as important purchase criteria, and they used internet web sites for knitwear purchases. Third, there were significant differences in preferred pullover shape depending on neckline shape, neck depth, sleeve shape and clothing length. University students preferred the classic pullover design with V neckline, normal neck depth, set-in sleeves and normal length. Fourth, university students preferred the cloud motif and riding man motif among the 9 Baekje traditional motifs and one point small pattern on the left chest and crosswise bending pattern for pattern arrangement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.10
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• pp.1633-1643
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• 2009

The knitwear industry requires ways to satisfy a changing environment. This study suggests a knitwear design process using a knit CAD program. Such a process needs to implement a CAD system that develops a sufficient knit design system to advance the knitwear industry in both planning and manufacturing. In order to contextualize this research, this study reviewed the current state and problems of the knitwear industry and the market, and investigated the actual condition in which the CAD system is used in knit design by CAD system service providers. The findings of the study are as follows: First, All brands had individual ways to reduce the amount of lead-time. The knit designers pointed out that any given sample product is made in the form of a swatch; after the knitting step and prior to the manufacturing process. In women's wear brands, basting was inserted into the production process in order to reduce the amount of sample losses. Second, a CAD program enables the uses of swatches to see the adequacy of yams, textures, and style that simulate the completed style. Third, this study examined the efficiency of knit design process conducted by the knit design CAD system based on expert assessments, showing that the use of a knit CAD program in commercial knit design proved to be more efficient than in previous models.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.562-570
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• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.399-410
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to investigate emotional images and preference of knitwear by tone on tone combination. The subjects were 357 university students in Daejeon and Chungnam province, and the measuring instruments were 6 stimuli manipulated by color and tone combination type of background and pattern in the tone and tone combination, and self-administrated questionnaires consisted of emotional images items, preference items, and subjects' demographics attributions. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, factor analysis, t-test, MANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test, using SPSS program. The results were as follows. First, four factors (attractiveness, conspicuity, mildness, and activity) are emerged on emotional images of knitwear. Second, color had main effects on emotional images and preference. Gray color was perceived as most attractive image and more preferred than others. Third, tone combination type had some effects on emotional images. Vivid tone background/light tone pattern was perceived more attractive image but less conspicuous and mild than light tone background/vivid tone pattern. Forth, subjects' gender had an effects on conspicuous image. Male was perceived more conspicuous image on knitwear stimuli than female. Fifth, color and subjects' gender had interaction effects on attractiveness image and preference. Male perceived that blue is more attractive and preferred than female.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.25-36
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive technique of grunge look in knitwear fashion. For this study, I have investigated theories of retro and decontructionism trends, and have examined pictures from professional fashion magazines. The results of study on the expressive technique of grunge look reflected on the knitwear fashion were as follows; (1) patchwork technique, which is an outstanding method of recycling, (2) handknitting technique, which came from retro trend of hippism, (3) unfinished edge, which emphasized the image of poverty and incompleteness, (4) irregular lace knitting and slash technique, which is the typical details of grunge look and denies the traditional fashion order, (5) hand stitch technique using various materials, which gives second-hand mood of hippie look, and (6) fringe details, which originated from the unfinished edge technique.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.488-495
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to experiment and develop seamless-effect knitwear design using tubular-jacquard structure in order to find a new method of manufacturing knitwear and to suggest a new design. The study is based on changing the point of view about using the practical technique like the tubular jacquard which has been used mainly for expressing patterns. The result of experimenting this, a piece of fabric is able to being worn as a piece of garment. As for using circular structure of tubular jacquard, a body can be fitted into the big space between front and back part of fabric and seams can be made of small patterns of jacquard fabric. The silhouette, the drape and the result of the garment of this experiment are different from the ordinary outfit. Therefore, the study to find a new way of design and manufacturing should go on to suggest a different form and method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1971-1980
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to explore the meaning and depth of traditional knitwears, and to develop knitwear designs by using Aran motif, one of major motifs of traditional knitwears and on the basis of the 'continuance' theory of Henri Bergson and Jill Deleuze. Connectivity, the sense of space and deconstructive fluidity-basic concepts of the continuance theory-are felt in such forms as pleats, origami, and air pumping systems, blob and twisting used in the modem fashion. The motif of Aran knitwear which has a long historical tradition can be reinterpreted in terms of those concepts of the continuance theory. In this study, we designed five pieces of knitwear while applying cable motif, an important motif of Aran knitwear, and the concepts of the continuance theory to them. This study will make a contribution to the designing of knit wears through reinterpretation of a traditional motif in terms of a modem philosophical thought.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.322-336
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• 2010

This study examines the appearance management attitude factor of male college students and groups them according to their characteristics. Then this research analyzes their interest in knitwear, buying behavior, and characteristics to see what kind of differences exist. The results of the research are as follows: First, after conducting a factor analysis to identify the appearance management attitude of male college students, 3 factors emerged(sought personality, pursued trends, and appearance interest). Second, as a result grouping the students according to their attitude. It is created 3 groups(fashionista group, personality group, and appearance interest group). Third, for the interest in knitwear, the fashionista group had the highest interest in knitwear, with a preferred brand when purchasing. Fourth, the fashionista group that values personality and latest trends was more likely to purchase knitwear than the personality group or the appearance interest group. Finally, the majority preferred solid colors. Over 50% of the students preferred knits without any patterns. Also, the most preferred 100% cotton. As this survey was only surveyed in Seoul and Gyounggi areas. The next research requires to be surveyed in a more comprehensive area. Additionally, male college students must more effectively be segmented and surveyed to get accurate results.