• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.968-981
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.280-287
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• 1999

The aims of this research were to study on the relationship between the mechanical properties and the deformation behavior of weft-knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure and knit density. Eighteen weft-knitted fabrics were produced with six different knit structures ($1{\times}1$ rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different knit densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties of these samples were measured using the KES-F system. The 2HBIW increased as knit density was raised. The increase was greater for the double knit fabrics in all samples. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock samples showed the lowest 2HG/G values. The double knits were smaller than those of single knits indicate a higher degree of surface smoothness. The ratio of compression energy to weight per unit area of the double knits had lower values than the single knits.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.163-177
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• 2024

Korea has preserved a highly sophisticated silk fabric culture throughout its history. Among these fabrics, Ra (羅) was considered to be a premium gauze fabric that required advanced skill and dedication to utilize. Ra is a complex gauze fabric in which four warp threads are twisted together and intersect with the weft to form intricate holes. This unique structure gives Ra its distinctive transparency and elasticity among silk textiles. It was widely used for veils, garments, and various items from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. However, its complex weaving process limited production efficiency, leading to its decline. Today, Ra has become obsolete. This study focuses on the elastic characteristics of Ra, where intersecting warp threads create net-like structured holes. This stucturre was emulated by developing a silk knit using a Raschel knitting machine. The developed product consists of three types: one replicating the alternating complex structure present in the traditional patterns of Munra (紋羅), another reproducing the distinctive hexagonal holes of the 4-end complex gauze, and the last expressing the hexagonal holes with the weft passing through them. Inspired by Ra's traditional uses in clothing and everyday items, various products were designed and produced. These include a women's coat with Akjureum, a 17th-century Joseon-style women's Jeogori, a modern market-style Jeogori, and a envelope inspired by a Goryeo Dynasty pouch artifact. These items confirm the potential and applicability of the developed silk knit as a material for modern Hanbok products. This study underscores the significance of developing new textiles that incorporate traditional materials, highlighting how tradition can be preserved in diverse ways.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.163-173
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• 2011

The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.870-879
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• 2006

In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.