• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.43-53
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to show inherent and differentiated beauty by designing costume knitwear using Dancho patterns representing peculiar beauty, thus expressing free and convenient knitwear in the modern sense for women with the image of reasonableness and elegance, proposing knit design using high-class materials for satisfying the demand for the highest. With regard to expression technique of works, I selected computer Jacquard method to indicate effective comparison effect of expression material and made expression with $12{\sim}14$ gauge as base by using computer knitting machine. Through above-mentioned research process and design using Knit CAD system, I obtained following conclusion. First, it is possible to express variously and widely traditional patterns by making the most of the beauty of the orient and by recomposing the patterns of plant patterns representing "feminine image". Second, it is possible to widely represent the sense you can feel from knit by expressing variously diversity of knit structure and Jacquard knitting structure and gauge. Finally, it is possible to express designs more freely and imaginably by using computer Knit CAD system instead of actual knitting of various knit expression technique and materials application.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.119-123
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• 2003

Fluff (lint, fiber fly) generation, especially related to yarn structure, was investigated. Research centered on the fiber length related to fluff generation during the knitting process. Short fiber length composing yarn structure was a main source of the fluff shedding. High quality spun yarn with longer length of fiber was recommended to the high speed knitting industry in order to reduce process troubles such as yarn breakage, etc. but the cost is doubtable to the manufacturers. A trial to reduce the fluff trouble by using chemicals to hold the short fiber on the surface of the yam was suggested and the research showed a positive effect to the problem. However, another factors including a by-product of chemical residue and searching more feasible material need to be concerned for the future research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.127-145
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• 2012

In an effort to investigate the overall trends of knit fabrics in fashion trends books, this study analyzed the components(fabric, yarn, gauge, thickness, knitting structure, pattern, dyeing and finishing) of knit fabrics in fashion trends books by the years and seasons from the S/S season of 2002 to the F/W season of 2011. Analyzed in the study were total 883 knit fabrics including the knit samples in Nelly Rodi Knitwear and Promostyl Fabrics. Collected data were put to frequency analysis with SPSS 12.0. Group mean analysis was also performed for thickness. The research results were as follows: As for knit fabrics in fashion trend books by the years and seasons, knit fabrics were most used in 2004 with similar frequency of knit fabrics among the seasons. As for fabric composition of knit fabrics, the uses of blend fabrics were considerably prominent both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2003 and the F/W season of 2002. As for gauge composition of knit fabrics, S/S seasons saw the most uses of fine G of 20G or higher, while F/W seasons saw the many uses of 12G-18G, which showed the highest frequency in 2002. As for knitting structure of knit fabrics, the plain stitch was used most both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2011 and the F/W season of 2007. As for pattern of knit fabrics, stripes and solid patterns were used most regardless of seasons. As for dyeing and finishing of knit fabrics, non-processed fabrics were used most, recording high frequency in the early 2000s.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.945-952
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• 2004

Shrink-resist effects and properties of the knitted fabrics from wool/acrylic(W/A) fiber blends were determined to find out an optimal blending ratio keeping the quality properties of wool products. The test fabrics were knitted by a weft knitting machine with all needle knitting structure ($0{\times}0$ rib) under the same knitting conditions with five different types of yarns: $W100\%,\;A100\%$, and W/A blended yarns(70/30, 50/50, 30/70). Shrinkage during repeated washing, electrostatic propensity, thermal resistance and pilling propensity of W/A knits. The shrink resistance was significantly enhanced on repeated washing of W/A knits, especially, over $50\%$ acrylic blended knits. Addition of strong physical force and alkali detergent applied in this washing experiment brought about superior effects with the low shrinkage rate although it was very severe washing conditions for wool fabrics. The results from the washing experiment implies that W/A blend knits can be machine washed at individual households with other ordinary laundry. There was some changes and variation found in thermal resistance, electrostatic propensity, and pilling. W/A 50/50 blended knits did not bring serious changes to other physical properties comparing with original wool, which helps consumers care wool knitted clothes more conveniently.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.89-98
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• 2000

Using conventional textile techniques such as weaving braiding knitting and stitching it is possible to produce a wide range two and three dimensional fiber preforms, however so far only a limited attention has been given to knitted fabrics in composite industry. This is mainly due to the opinion that knitted fabric reinforced composites posses low mechanical properties owing to their looped fiber architecture. But it is possible to obtain desired mechanical properties by selecting proper knitted fabric structure, In this paper mechanical characteristics of kevlar plain weft knitted fabrics reinforced plastics(KFRP) are evaluated for th development of intrusion beam of car side door. Tensile bending impact properties of KFRP are measured experimentally and crush demands of Americal Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No.214(FMVSS 214) compared with the bending load and displacement of KFRP by quasi-static test method. The applicability and limitation of bending load and displacement of KFRP according to specimen size has been discussed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.17-31
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• 2003

$Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision is a leading textile collection held since 1973. In this study, textiles for 2004/05 F/W season in $Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision were analyzed at the various point of view, such as general trend, sub-theme, fiber content, color trend, structure, yarn trend, pattern, texture, decoration, finishing and other technical treatment, and functionality. There were three general trends; natural/ecology, geometry, and combination. Natural color and texture were widely used over the fabric exhibited, and irregularities expressed the natural trend of textiles. Geometric patterns were used for knit as well as for woven. Geometry expressed by various methods such as weaving, knitting, printing, shearing, embossing, and etc. However, geometry shown in this season was not a clear form expressed by weaving, but a blurry, irregular form expressed by various other methods such as knitting. The combination among heterogeneous fibers, yarns, colors, images, and textures was usual, however, the harmony among them was accomplished.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.488-495
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to experiment and develop seamless-effect knitwear design using tubular-jacquard structure in order to find a new method of manufacturing knitwear and to suggest a new design. The study is based on changing the point of view about using the practical technique like the tubular jacquard which has been used mainly for expressing patterns. The result of experimenting this, a piece of fabric is able to being worn as a piece of garment. As for using circular structure of tubular jacquard, a body can be fitted into the big space between front and back part of fabric and seams can be made of small patterns of jacquard fabric. The silhouette, the drape and the result of the garment of this experiment are different from the ordinary outfit. Therefore, the study to find a new way of design and manufacturing should go on to suggest a different form and method.