• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.57-71
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• 2021

The purpose of the study is to derive an appropriate knitting method that can increase the appearance, wearability, and functionality through empirical research on the sleeve height knitting ratio of seamless knit wear. The study was conducted by producing seven types of experiment clothes according to knitting ratio to examine the characteristics according to the body armhole and sleeve height ratio. Specifically, after fit evaluatins, variance analysis (ANOVA) was performed to analyze the results of the evaluation, and the evaluated contents were converted into data. Among them, the items with significant results were intensively studied using the Duncan-test. The result showed that the height and the width of the sleeves vary depending on the knitting ratio. Test sweater A was the highest at 16cm, followed by test sweater B, test sweater C, test sweater D, test sweater E, test sweater F, and test sweater G at 4cm. The 1:1 ratio of test sweater A, was the highest, which is knitted in the same course as the body. The larger the difference in the ratio of body and sleeve, the lower the height of the sleeves. As a result of the appearance sensory evaluation, a significant difference was confirmed in the result values (p<0.001) from all items on the front, side, and rear. Specifically, the appearance of the test sweater B(2:4:2) on the front and test sweater C(2:4:3) on the side and rear side was the best. When the sleeves height is properly set, the ratio of the arm line to fit the design with a natural curve is analyzed as a very important factor. The results of this study are expected to be of practical use in product development and production that can increase the feeling when wearing and design satisfaction.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.69-79
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• 2019

This study aims to seek knitting methods that can enhance the neck design of seamless knitwear and to find out how to improve the designs by comparing and analyzing the characteristics of the knitting methods used for v-neck pullovers. The investigator analyzed the characteristics of the knitting methods and assessed the wearing sensation by using six different pieces of clothing for the experiment. The results were analyzed based on a variance analysis (ANOVA). Among the items showing significant results, the Duncan-test was used for more intensive research. As a result, while using the basic pattern of knitting methods, Experiment Clothes A ended up binding on the back neckline, and not making the hem of back. Also, the neck was the widest. In the case of the special neck, Experimental Clothes B (1:1), which had the least number of the knitting course in relation to the knitting ratio, the bottom part of the back body had the most wrinkles. According to the result of wearing sensation, the front part, the side part, and the back part showed similar results (p<0.000) in all items. Specifically, the appearance of the Experiment Clothes A (normal) in both the front and rear aspects were evaluated as the best. In the case of the special neck, the Experimental Clothes F was ranked the highest, whereas the Experimental Clothes B (1:1) was ranked the lowest. Based on the results of the study, it seems possible to provide concrete and technical data for the planning of unique and productive designs. With regard to seamless knitwear neck designs, a comparative analysis of the knitting method of v-neck pullovers will be of practical use in the development and manufacturing of the product.

• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to analyze and minimize structural error between sample knitting and actual knitting in weft knitting apparel. Basic stitches used in this study were plain stitch, $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, Milan rib stitch. They were knitted into two different gauges(7 and 12 gauge) and 6 different sample sizes by computer program. The weight, length and width of these 5 basic knitting stitches were measured and their changes according to gauge, stitch and knitting were calculated and analyzed. The results were as follows; The weight of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by Milan rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, plain stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. As the density of stitch per unit area increases, the weight increases. The length of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch and Milan stitch in both 7 and 12 gauge. As the number of course increases, the length increases accordingly. However, its increase ratio shows higher than that of number of course. It means that the reduction in number of course is needed to get aimed length. The width of Milan rib stitch was the largest, followed by $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch in 7 gauge. In 12 gauge, Milan stitch, plain stitch and $0{\times}0$ rib stitch were the highest, followed by $2{\times}2$ rib stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. It showed that the change in shape of stitch influenced on the width more than the length of stitch.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.272-281
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• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.945-952
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• 2004

Shrink-resist effects and properties of the knitted fabrics from wool/acrylic(W/A) fiber blends were determined to find out an optimal blending ratio keeping the quality properties of wool products. The test fabrics were knitted by a weft knitting machine with all needle knitting structure ($0{\times}0$ rib) under the same knitting conditions with five different types of yarns: $W100\%,\;A100\%$, and W/A blended yarns(70/30, 50/50, 30/70). Shrinkage during repeated washing, electrostatic propensity, thermal resistance and pilling propensity of W/A knits. The shrink resistance was significantly enhanced on repeated washing of W/A knits, especially, over $50\%$ acrylic blended knits. Addition of strong physical force and alkali detergent applied in this washing experiment brought about superior effects with the low shrinkage rate although it was very severe washing conditions for wool fabrics. The results from the washing experiment implies that W/A blend knits can be machine washed at individual households with other ordinary laundry. There was some changes and variation found in thermal resistance, electrostatic propensity, and pilling. W/A 50/50 blended knits did not bring serious changes to other physical properties comparing with original wool, which helps consumers care wool knitted clothes more conveniently.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.51-56
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• 2006

Power net fabric is one of the highly extensible two-way fabrics. Power net structure shows special characteristics in the wearing of final functional clothes. This research evaluated effects of treatment temperature on proportional extensibility and shrinkage ratio of spandex at a given wale length. As treatment temperature increased, extensibility increased proportionally to the standard length of the sample and the shrinkage ratio in the direction of course and wale increased. The pulling-out length increased proportionally to the standard length of the sample. However it was affected by the effect of treatment time and temperature due to the thermal properties of spandex filament yarn.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.43-52
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• 1997

The main purpose of this study was to examine the sectors of Korean textile complex based on various economic characteristics and performances. The sectors in the textile complex differed in many aspects. Man-made fiber industry showed capital-intensive characteristics even though most of the sectors in the textile complex were labor-intensive. Textile industry is composed of weaving and spinning, knitting, dyeing and finishing sectors and even within the textile industry, each sector had different characteristics from each others. Weaving and spinning sector seemed to require relatively high capital investment, while dyeing and finishing was very labor-intensive. Labor-intensive apparel industry has faced decrease in labor-productivity while wage has increased. Slow growth in labor productivity in Korean textile complex was shown to be a more problem than increase in wage or ratio of labor cost to value added. Apparel companies appeared to be in better financial states than the textile companies, even though the exports of apparel products have decreased in the 1990s. However, in overall the financial states of the Korean textile complex were not as strong as those of the other manufacturing sectors.

• Composites Research
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.9-18
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• 2005

복합재료가 항공기 구조물 및 기계부품 등에 폭 넓게 적용됨에 따라, 복합재료 구조물에서 가장 취약한 복합재료 체결부의 설계는 매우 중요한 연구 분야로 대두되고 있다. 본 논문에서는 기계적으로 체결이 된 단일 및 다중 핀 하중을 받는 복합재료 평판에서 응력분포에 대한 해석적인 연구를 수행하였다. 또한, 기계적체결부인 핀과 구멍간에서 접촉 문제를 다루기 위하여 접촉응력해석을 이용한 유한요소 모델이 사용되었으며, 응력분포를 정량적으로 비교하기 위하여 무차원화한 응력집중계수를 이용하였다. 단일 핀 하중을 받는 경우에 대하여 적층순서, 원공의 지름에 대한 평판 폭의 비 (W/D ratio), 원공의 지름에 대한 끝단에서 원공까지의 길이의 비 (En ratio), 마찰계수, 와셔의 조임력 등에 대한 영향을 알아보았으며, 다중 핀 하중을 받는 경우에 응력집중계수를 이용하여 핀의 개수, 피치, 열의 개수, 열 간격 및 원공의 배치형상의 영향에 대하여 알아보았다. 단일 핀 하중을 받는 경우에 대한 결과로부터, DBLT (Double-Bias-Longitudinal Transverse) 복합재료 평판에서 응력이 가장 민감하게 나타나는 것을 알 수 있었고, 원공의 지름에 대한 평판 폭의 비와끝단에서 원공까지의 길이의 비에 따른 응력의 변화가 민감하게 나타나는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한, 다중핀 하중을 받는 경우에 대한 응력해석의 결과로부터, 원공이 2열로 배치된 복합재료 평판에서 응력집중현상이 가장 적게 일어나는 것을 확인하였다. 이러한 해석을 통하여, 체결부에서 나타나는 응력분포로부터 복합재료 평판에서의 파손형태를 예측할 수 있다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.49-58
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.