• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.448-457
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• 2017

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of interlock fabrics knitted with three types of fibers (i.e., cotton, wool, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers (i.e., 10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system. We experimented with four properties and thicknesses of twelve specimens of interlining bonded knitted fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings. The results showed that the tensile property changed values (i.e., LT increased, and WT and RT decreased) according to the denier of interlinings; however, the change was slight. On the other hand, the bending property increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the course. Among shearing properties, the value of G increased as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the weft; however, 2HG decreased. Additionally, changes in the compression property varied according to the fibers and the denier of the interlinings. The thickness of the knitted fabrics increased or decreased slightly by bonding the interlining. based on these results, we conclude that the 3D virtual system users need to reflect these numerical changes of interlock fabrics by bonding interlinings when they perform fitting tasks on the screen to accurately express the to accurately express the manufacturing conditions of the real garment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.676-682
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• 2010

Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 2011

For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre- and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. This study investigated the effect of types of fabrics(media) as a DTP parameters. Especially, the effects of media properties such as yarn twist and knitted fabric structure, on printability and color difference were examined. Two types of cotton yarn twist(830 and 1630 twist/meter) and five knitted structures of media were prepared with a single circular knitting machine. The K/S values of hard-twist samples were higher than those of normal-twist samples in every media structures. It is more effective to use the knitted fabrics of a hard-twist yarn to obtain dark color in the printing above input level value 60 where the printability improvement was most pronounced in case of plain structure. Among the five media structures a plain structure was the highest and that of corduroy was the lowest in terms of K/S values. Also ${\Delta}E$ values and lightness of the hard-twist yarn samples were smaller than that of normal-twist yarn samples when ${\Delta}E$ values were tested by using a standard of a normal twist yarn sample with a plain structure, which was increased in the case of corduroy structure.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.224-233
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• 2022

Recently, consumer tastes of various classes at home and abroad prefer comfortable, unadorned, and simple clothing, and the athleisure trend, which can be used freely in daily life as well as exercise, has expanded to overall clothing products. Existing materials used for athleisure are composite knitted fabrics using polyester yarn and PU yarn, which has problems due to a chronic lack of color fastness and contamination by dyes even when PU laminating is applied, making it difficult to apply various colors. There is a quality problem in which deformation of the product occurs due to lack of durability. In this study, CDP yarn(75de/72f) and PU yarn(40de) were selected to commercialize the circular knitting for athleisure using CDP yarn in order to solve the problems that occur in the dyeing and laminating process when using polyester materials. CDP yarns were used to knit into single(CP75-S) and double(CP75-D) knit and single knit were found to be suitable as athleisure fabrics. After pretreatment and treatment under various conditions, the stainability of CDP circular knitting was examined. After pretreatment and dyeing process under various conditions, the property of scouring and dyeability of CP75-S were evaluated.

• Geotechnical Engineering
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.157-178
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• 1996

Current design methods for reinforced earth structures take no account of the magnitude of the strains induced in the tensile members as these are invariably manufactured from high modulus materials, such as steel, where straits are unlikely to be significant. With fabrics, however, large strains may frequently be induced and it is important to determine these to enable the stability of the structure to be assessed. In the present paper internal design method of analysis relating to the use of fabric reinforcements in reinforced earth structures for both stress and strain considerations is presented. For the internal stability analysis against rupture and pullout of the fabric reinforcements, a strain compatibility analysis procedure that considers the effects of reinforcement stiffness, relative movement between the soil and reinforcements, and compaction-induced stresses as studied by Ehrlich 8l Mitchell is used. I Bowever, the soil-reinforcement interaction is modeled by relating nonlinear elastic soil behavior to nonlinear response of the reinforcement. The soil constitutive model used is a modified vertsion of the hyperbolic soil model and compaction stress model proposed by Duncan et at., and iterative step-loading approach is used to take nonlinear soil behavior into consideration. The effects of seepage pressures are also dealt with in the proposed method of analy For purposes of assessing the strain behavior oi the fabric reinforcements, nonlinear model of hyperbolic form describing the load-extension relation of fabrics is employed. A procedure for specifying the strength characteristics of paraweb polyester fibre multicord, needle punched non-woven geotHxtile and knitted polyester geogrid is also described which may provide a more convenient procedure for incorporating the fablic properties into the prediction of fabric deformations. An attempt to define improvement in bond-linkage at the interconnecting nodes of the fabric reinforced earth stracture due to the confining stress is further made. The proposed method of analysis has been applied to estimate the maximum tensions, deformations and strains of the fabric reinforcements. The results are then compared with those of finite element analysis and experimental tests, and show in general good agreements indicating the effectiveness of the proposed method of analysis. Analytical parametric studies are also carried out to investigate the effects of relative soil-fabric reinforcement stiffness, locked-in stresses, compaction load and seepage pressures on the magnitude and variation of the fabric deformations.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.203-212
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective perception of textures, sensibilities, and preference among consumers. This study, then, aimed to provide useful information with respect to planning and designing knitted fabrics by predicting the subjective characteristics analyzed according to their structural properties. For this purpose, we employed statistical analysis tools, such as factor and regression analysis and an adaptive-network-based fuzzy inference system(ANFIS), thereby combining the merits of fuzzy and neural networks and presupposing a non-linear relationship. Through factor analysis, we also categorized the subjective textures into 'roughness', 'softness', 'bulkiness' and 'stretch-ability' with R2=70.32%: and categorized the sensibilities into 'Stable/Neat', 'Natural/Comfortable' and 'Feminine/Elegant' with R2=68.12%. We analyzed subjective textures, sensibilities, and preference with ANFIS, assuming non-linear relationships; consequently, we were able to generate three or four fuzzy rules using wool/rayon fiber content and loop length as input data. The textures of roughness and softness exhibited a linear relationship, but other subjective characteristics demonstrated a non-linear input-output relationship. Compared with linear regression analysis, the ANFIS exhibited had higher predictive power with respect to predicting subjective characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.163-175
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• 2011

The purposes of this study are to identify quality factors of knitwears, to find out important attributes of knitwears quality, and to find attributes of knitwears quality which improvement are required. College students in the Seoul district participated in the study, a convenience sampling method was used. A questionnaires was arranged with three separates subject sections, importance degree of knitwears quality, satisfaction degree of purchased knitwears, and demographic factors. Data from 280 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. For data analysis, factor analysis, paired-samples t-test and multiple response frequency were conducted. The results were as follows. Knitwears quality factors were classified into six subdivisions by factor analysis; physical functions, yarn and fabric properties, fit, symbol, aesthetic, and usefulness. Quality attributes in purchasing knitwears were considered importantly in order of design, textures, color, price, size, and shape stability, etc. Among quality attributes on knitwears, there were significant differences in importance degree and satisfaction degree; important degree was higher than satisfaction degree to six factors on knitwears quality. Especially, in graph according to gap analysis, physical function and symbol were included in IV area, attributes that attention, required of quality improvement. In contrast, yarn and fabric properties, fit, aesthetic, and usefulness were included in I area, strengths, maintained presently quality levels.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.341-348
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• 2010

Sodium sulfate is commonly added in reactive dyebath in order to increase substantivity of the reactive dye to cellulose fiber by reducing repulsion between anionic dye and fiber. While sodium sulfate is mostly used in solid form, it is inconvenient to dissolve a large amount of powder sodium sulfate. Furthermore, if there is undissolved salt in dyebath it might cause unlevel dyeing. In this study, sodium sulfate in liquid or solid form was used in dyeing of cellulose fabric with reactive dyes of three primary color and the effect of type or amount of sodium sulfate on dyeing and fastness properties was investigated. When the amount of sodium sulfate rose to 30-50 g/l, K/S value of the dyed fabric markedly increased; further rise in sodium sulfate concentration resulted in slow increase in K/S value. For light color, optimum amount was about 30 g/l in solid form and 50-100 g/l in liquid form while, for medium to deep color, it was 50 g/l and 100-150 g/l in solid and liquid form, respectively. When using each optimum amount of salt in solid or liquid form for medium color, shape of dyeing curve as well as exhaustion was similar to each other. On the whole, similar color fastness results were obtained regardless of type or amount of sodium sulfate.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.10 s.200
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• pp.153-171
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop a system by which the tensile properties of knitted fabrics can be applied. In this study, 3 different conditions of tensile property were tested on 8 sample fabrics with various stitches and stretch ranges. The subjects were five women of age from 18 to 24 years showing average body figures. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows: The tensile properly of 12gf/cm was considered as appropriate for applying into the pattern alteration in the case of moderate stretch(course, $25\~35\%$) or over samples. However, for the stable stretch(course, under $20\%$) fabrics, such as Milano rib stitch, a tensile properly of 20gf/cm was regarded as more valid.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.1-4
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• 2003

본 연구는 경편성물의 특성에 영향을 미치는 중요한 구조변수인 조직, 편환의 계폐여부, 가이드바의 상호 움직임 방향에 따른 소리특성과 생리적 반응 사이의 관계를 파악함으로써 총합적 감성소재 설계를 위한 기초 자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 직물소리발생장치를 이용하여 7가지의 경편성물에 대한 마찰음을 녹음한 후, 이를 마찰음이 유발하는 생리반응을 측정하여 slow alpha파, fast beta파, ECG R-R, RESP, HF/LF, SCL, PV등을 분석하였다. 조직에 따라서는 LPT, Loundness(Z), Roughness(Z)와 Fluctuation strength(Z) 가장 큰 Sharkskin에서 fast beta파, ECG R-R, RESP는 증가하였으며 slow alpha파, PV, HF/LF는 감소하였다. 편환의 개폐여부에서는 폐환보다는 개환에서 Loudness(Z), Sharpness(Z), Fluctuation strength(Z)가 증가하였으며 RESP는 증가하고 HF/LF는 감소하여 개환이 더 불쾌한 감성을 유발하였다. 가이드바의 상호 움직임 방향은 counter보다는 parallel에서 slow alpha의 변화량이 감소하고 fast beta의 변화량이 증가하여 counter보다는 parallel이 더 불쾌한 감성을 유발하는 것으로 보인다. 또한 편성물의 음향특성 중 ΔL, Δf 와 Roughness(Z), Fluctuation Strength(Z)가 생리반응을 예측하는 중요한 요인으로써 나타났다.