• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant ('elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically 'active.' Furthermore, a 'country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as 'sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have 'modem' images. Lace II was regarded as 'ethnic', while racking II was said to have a 'romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly ('manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1812-1823
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• 2010

The modifiable design of clothes is significant in that a single garment can be presented in various ways and can be modified by user adjustments as well different kinds of figurative beauty can be expressed through the garment. This study departmentalized the case of knitwear in the modifiable design of clothes to propose a possibility of a variable knit fashion that makes the most of the knit characteristics. This study investigated precedent research, arranged general terms, created fundamental notions, found the background of the advent, and located specific characters in the modifiable design as well as arranged a concept, type, structure, and traits for the knit. The following results were obtained through this study. First, the modifiable design of the clothes can express the change of the silhouette and the change of the item itself or a change in the item according to the change in the mode of wearing, manipulation, and technology. Second, the results show that modifiable knit designs by open & close are mostly used according to manipulation and have no existence in this study according to the technology. Third, there was a noticeable appearance of a modifiable knit design from 2002 to 2004. However, it was increased again in 2009 after a steady decrease in 2005 and 2008. Finally, it can create effects in several dresses in the visual aspect and functional aspect.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.103-119
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• 2011

This study set out to analyze the solid shapes of knit flared skirts, which are best represented in a 3-dimensional shape for all knit skirts, according to the seamed and seamless production method and to estimate the silhouettes of knit flared skirts based on the results. It also aimed to help with the introduction and spread of seamless weaving by revising and supplementing potential problems and provide findings that would be put to active use as basic data, thus contributing to the development of original knitwear and offering fundamental materials for the development of the knitting industry. A number of experimental knit flared skirts were made according to skirt angle ($90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge (7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain (bias, wale, and radial), including 12 kinds of seamed knit flared skirts and 6 kinds of seamless knit flared skirts. Using a three-dimensional shape measurement system, the investigator measured the cross-sectional shapes of their hemlines. The SPSS 12 Version program was used for statistical processing, and descriptive statistics such as mean and standard deviation were used to compare the seamed and seamless knit flared skirts in the measurements (measurement items) of their solid shapes according to the width, gauges, and grain directions. The central grain direction of seamless knit flared skirts was in a radial form and even hemlines, thus presenting a beautiful appearance and solid shape. The 3-dimensional shapes show that seamless knit flared skirts are superior to seamed ones. The research findings are expected to open a door for Korea's knitting industry to quickly respond to small quantity batch production and additional orders.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.127-143
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• 2005

This study provides a classifying framework in the modern knit wears, helps to have better understandings of the comparative differences between hand-knit skill and machine-knit skill in terms of the intrinsically characteristic values, and grasps the tendency in their applied techniques based on the characteristics. The comparative characteristics in modern knit wears are produced according to the used skills. The work completeness with which the clothing can be sublimated into the level of artistic phase is given in craftmanship-knit techniques. This makes it possible to design a rare one, and therefore provides a wider range of availability in clothing. The technical traits in craftman-ship-knit are identified as disassembly, specialty, decorativeness and rarity, and the different skills are employed by the characteristics. On the other hand, the differences are not used in ma-chine-knit wears in the way the craftmanship-knit type utilizes by the trait and, instead, the ma-chine-woven fabrics with a machine tool are taken on the whole. In the flow of fashion modes, the characteristics of machine-knitted wears are found remarkably in the modernized contemporary designs seeking for activity and functionality with the use of materials, colors and details minimized. And those trails are characterized as formality, simplicity, functionality and popularity. The comparison in knitting techniques is made in such a way of disassembly and formality; specialty and simplicity; decorativeness and functionality; and rarity and popularity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.583-597
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world's four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$", "Intertextuality", "Intermeaning of Meaning", "Dis De Phenomenon". The results of the study were as follows: first, "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$" refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, "Intertextuality" indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, "Intermeaning of Meaning" is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the "Dis De Phenomenon". In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.121-136
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• 2019

The fashion market is expanding and competition is intensifying due to the contraction of consumption in response to the economic recession and changes in trends. In this study, design characteristics reflecting the brand identity and trend are analyzed as important factors for success. In this study, we will look at the design characteristics of knitwear among SPA brand products and help to plan knit designs. First, six brands were selected based on the sales and the number of stores in domestic and foreign SPA brands. The selected brands include UNIQLO, ZARA, H&M, SPAO, TOPTEN, and 8Seconds. We have selected weft knitting knitwear products(1,736 pieces), which are currently sold in domestic and foreign SPA brands, as silhouette items, knitwear design items, gauges, colors, patterns, images, and items as analysis items to analyze the causes of the differences in the design characteristics of domestic and foreign knitwear. The SPA brand has a wide range of tattoo floors, emphasizing practical aspects, a silhouette that fits the body, and a comfortable daily style. Domestic and foreign SPA brands did not show much difference, but Korean brands had a lower diversity of organization and used color for stable sales, showing a lower concern in trend and strong point color applications. If foreign brands pursue femininity based on a sexy image, Korean brands displayed a difference, emphasizing cute images. As for other design factors, it was found that brand identity was reflected more than domestically. As the cycle of trends becomes shorter, fast fashion is expected to continue in the future, and it is hoped that this research will be used as useful data for design projects of domestic companies.

• Fashion Information and Technology
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• v.3
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• pp.2-12
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• 2006

• Fashion Information and Technology
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• v.3
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• pp.32-38
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• 2006

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2008

This study aims to consolidate the qualitative growth of knit design thru the creation of high value-added brand and design, in the state of active trend for competitive promotion of professional knit brand, by collapsing the border line between the knitwear market and the woven one. In accordance with the market situation of increasing a demand of knitwear products, I wish to awaken the importance of knit design thru this study, to survey domestic knit brand products and their planning directions and to plan for the high value-added knitwear products, thru presenting the problems of knit industry and developing knitwear design. This study is focused on showing process of planning and items developed personally by me in charge of developing products practically at the job site of knit industry. From the stage of planning for goods, I suggested the 2007 s/s goods of M company as a strategy of distinctiveness caused by the problems with rival companies, and also proposed a method conducted by the actual business. Setting up M company's s/s concept of the year 2007, I suggested a plan of quantity, time of forwarding, color, fabrics, etc. as well as the process and schedule thru order, and based on the above result, I made a planning for 2007 s/s knitwear for middle-aged women.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.51-65
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to investigate research trends in the knitwear fashion field and suggest future directions for fashion businesses and research. Research trends in the knitwear fashion field were investigated. A total of 134 articles on knitwear fashion field among 4027 published in five journals - Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion & Costume, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume - from 2001 to 2010 were analyzed. Most (32.84%) of articles related to knitwear fashion were published in Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design. The knitwear fashion field was divided into fashion design, clothing construction, textile science, fashion marketing, and history of costume. The majority (43.28%) were on the research topic of fashion design, followed by textile science, clothing construction, fashion marketing, history of costume. From 2001 to 2010, the number of papers relating to knitwear fashion increased from year to year. The further development of the knitwear fashion field can be expected in the future.