• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.117-132
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• 2021

As the golfwear market grows rapidly and expands due to the influx of MZ generation golfers, competition among brands is intensifying, so it is necessary to plan knit golf wear products that are suitable for the consumer needs. The purpose of this study is to contribute to product planning by analyzing the design characteristics of women's knitted golfwear products among golfwear brands. First, the top 10 brands, as selected by Golf Magazine, were used for analysis. The selected brands include PXG, Titleist Apparel, Wide Angle, Pearlygates, Footjoy Golf, Castelbajac, Fantom, Ping, Le Coq Golf, and PGA Tour & LPGA. 692 women's cross-knit knitwear products were investigated based on design elements, such as flat tissue, gauge, color, pattern, image, and items. The characteristics of women's knitted golfwear showed a high utilizations of Jacquard and high gauge Intarsiafor pattern expression and a low variety of deformed stich. The proportion of achromatic colors is large, and many brands use point colors based on black and white. Brand identity is important, and brand letters, Monograms are frequently used, and the proportion of sportive and modern image in the products is high. With the increase of MZ generation golfers, the preferred design direction will change and gradually deepen.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.763-778
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• 2021

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai's knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study's data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai's distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.127-143
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• 2005

This study provides a classifying framework in the modern knit wears, helps to have better understandings of the comparative differences between hand-knit skill and machine-knit skill in terms of the intrinsically characteristic values, and grasps the tendency in their applied techniques based on the characteristics. The comparative characteristics in modern knit wears are produced according to the used skills. The work completeness with which the clothing can be sublimated into the level of artistic phase is given in craftmanship-knit techniques. This makes it possible to design a rare one, and therefore provides a wider range of availability in clothing. The technical traits in craftman-ship-knit are identified as disassembly, specialty, decorativeness and rarity, and the different skills are employed by the characteristics. On the other hand, the differences are not used in ma-chine-knit wears in the way the craftmanship-knit type utilizes by the trait and, instead, the ma-chine-woven fabrics with a machine tool are taken on the whole. In the flow of fashion modes, the characteristics of machine-knitted wears are found remarkably in the modernized contemporary designs seeking for activity and functionality with the use of materials, colors and details minimized. And those trails are characterized as formality, simplicity, functionality and popularity. The comparison in knitting techniques is made in such a way of disassembly and formality; specialty and simplicity; decorativeness and functionality; and rarity and popularity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.61-71
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• 2008

Knit wear with comfortable feeling of wearing and various coordinations gives new values to the modern people, who seek activities and individualities, and the demand for knit wear is on the rise. This article aims to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean knit fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in Korea from 2005 to 2007 had been analyzed. The knitting techniques, and designing characteristics and aesthetic values of Korean knit fashion had been studied. The major conclusions of the study are the following: 1. Korean knit fashion applies various knitting techniques. The knitting techniques used in Korean knit fashion are hand-knitting technique, crochet techniques, lace techniques, plain stitch, rib stitch, and purl stitch technique. 2. Decorations by trimming and matching with different textile materials are used more frequently than decorations by knit material itself. Decorating methods include fringes, spangle, beads, Rhine stone, motif and embroidery decorating. Matching with different textile materials made contrasting decoration effect. 3. Patterms by knitting structure and by arranging colors are applied. Cubic effect by knitting structure patterns, and geometric patterns by arranging colors are emphasized. 4. The formative feature beauties are natural beauty, feminine beauty, and decorative beauty. Korean knit fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various knitting techniques and decorating techniques. As individual activities may be increased in the future, the designs and applications of knit fashion may be diversified.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.700-713
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women's knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.133-145
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• 2023

Competition is intensifying as the golfwear market grows and expands rapidly due to the influx of MZ generation golfers, so it is necessary to plan knit golfwear products suitable to consumer needs The purpose of this study is to contribute to product planning by analyzing knit design factors according to the brand image of golfwear. First, the top five sales brands surveyed by Apparel News were selected. The selected brands were G-Fore, PXG, Malbon Golf, Titleist, and Mark & Lona. Knit products sold by the selected golfwear brands were investigated based on design factors, such as image, item, stich, yarn, color, and pattern to analyze knit design factors according to brand image. G-Fore's modern classical image was influenced by pullovers, vest items, 100% wool, color contrast, intasha stich, and monotone colors. PXG's sporty modern image was due to a mixture of rayon and polyester in jumper items, while Malbon Golf's American casual image applied character patterns and intasha knitwear. Line points, plain knitwear, and monotone colors were analyzed as design factors for Titleist's modern minimal image, while Mark & Lona's classic casual was analyzed as knit design factors, such as check patterns and jacquard knitwear. Differences in knit design factors according to brand image can be identified.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.127-138
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• 2002

The recent fashion trend of knit wear is now changing to the various fibrous color combination which emphasizes the plain texture. It supports the human body curvature which is influenced by the slim style of woven wear. In this research work, the general characteristics and knit wear fashion trend are studied. The metallic fiber and fancy yarn are used widely as fiber materials for knit in nowadays. However, the light and functional materials are preferred. The general characteristics of knit which gives the feeling of light and warm are still prevailing using pure wool, kid mohair, and mixed wool with polyester. In order to provide the soft touch feeling, smoothness of fine fiber, and feeling of sponge, several kinds of finishing techniques such as bulky, felting, bonding, and quilting process are usually adopted. The knit wear fashion trend is mainly consisted of the basic design items, and it gives the feeling of luxurious and elegance. The more youthful feeling is adapted for the general style of knit wear of the certain target age. The woven wear trend such as season color, line and pattern are applied in knit wear trend in recent days.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.88-99
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to express visual and functional diversity through modifiable design, and to suggest a methodological model. With this view, this study was aimed to departmentalize the case of knitwear in modifiable design of clothes and propose the possibility of variable knit fashion through make the most of knit's characteristics. Four wearable physical clothes using the most of flexible knits' characteristics were made for this study based on the modifiable design on the expressive tendency and analysis of plasticity. The following results were obtained. First, as modifiable knit design can create effects of several dresses in visual aspect and functional aspect, so it has practicality and functionality. Because modifiable clothes required wearer's participation, this have amusement that give enjoyment and freshness to wearer. Second, in mode of wearing, flexibility of knit is suitable character to open & close and change of wearing position. In manipulation, a prearranged plan for line of clothes and good choice of subsidiary materials are important. Third, the characteristics of knits allow using and mixing with different pattern and materials on the two sides of the same cloths except for the some of the parts. Moreover, there is no unraveled thread on the part of knits margin against woven, so it has the broad applicable range for the changeable design. Finally, the form and function, a prearranged plan for modifiable design of clothes have all contributed in creating new structure and patterns in design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.106-117
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present a new vision for high value-added knit wear design by designing and producing knitted one-piece dress by digital textile printing which based on digital making a new industry, culture, and lifestyle in a new millenium. According as casual fashion is more and more popular, preferring knit wear, a key item of casual fashion, continues to increases. Therefore it is important to study knit wear design practically, try a new technique, and represent creative designs. As a method of the study, visual and textural data were investigated for theory of knit and DTP and a variety of knit design samples were illustrated Especially, to perform a study based on the industry, this researcher worked and experienced at J fashion Ltd., knit wear promotion company. Firstly, the theory of DTP was investigated and then 3 knitted one-pieces were designed and produced. The concept of design was digital geometry which represented chic and modern image in digital age. Target was city adult group from the late teens to the late twenties and keeping open mind and active lifestyle and enjoying the activity and unique characteristics of knit wear. This study has developed knitted one-piece design by DTP technique which has been generally applied to woven fabric. This is of great significant in opening a new way of high value-added knit wear design.