• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.89-102
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• 2004

Modern society is age of sports just as health and leisure became dominant concern, which has caused the fixation and development to sports wear considered as fashion for everyday dress. This paper focused on the development process and aesthetic characteristics of knit design expressed in the 20th century sports wear. The importance and direction of knit design in modern sports wear is expected. Style, items, fabrics, colors, details and top designers were analyzed in sports wear from the 1910' s to 1990' s. Sports wear can be categorized into two of the active sports wear and spectator sports wear. Since disappearance of division between ordinary wear and sports fashion in the 1970' s, the functional wear of leggings, cycle shorts, exercise clothes, leotard, and leg warmer appeared. Vicennial developments of synthetic fibers and new fabrics have caused the great changes in knit design. Colors were vivid in the 1950' s, metallic in the 1970' s and neon in the 1990' s. Sportive sense was expressed by various details. The dominant knit designers who expressed aesthetic characteristics to sports wear were Coco Chanel, Claire McCardell, Balenciaga, Andre Courrege, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint-Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Giogio Armani.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.82-82
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• 2011

최근 국내외 섬유시장은 생활패턴의 변화로 레저 활동 인구가 급증하고, 스포츠 및 케쥬얼 의류의 대한 수요가 증가하고 있어 다기능성을 발휘하는 소재에 대한 관심이 높아지고 기존의 기능성과 차별화된 신소재 및 기능성 소비자 needs가 증가되고 있다. 코코넛 활성탄소 함유 PET 원사는 최근 H사에서 코코넛 열매껍질을 원료로 탄화시켜 얻어진 활성탄소를 polyester에 혼입 방사하여 상용화 단계에 있는 원사로 우수한 흡한속건성, 항균, 소취성 그리고 UV 차단 기능성 등 최근 소비자의 needs에 맞는 고기능성 신섬유 소재로 기존의 유사 기능성 섬유(숯, 대나무, 기능성 무기물 혼입 원사 등)에 비해 물질의 표면적과 공극이 넓어 보다 탁월한 성능을 발휘하는 것으로 알려져 있지만 활성탄소를 함유한 원사로 짙은 원착색으로 인해 의복의 심미성이 크게 떨어지는 단점이 있어 이를 보완 할 필요성이 있다. 본 연구에서는 상용화 단계의 코코넛 활성탄소 함유 PET 원사의 심미성을 보완 할 수 있는 편직기술과 활성탄소 입자 소실을 방지하고 기능성 발현에 알맞은 염색 가공 공정을 확립하여 심미성과 기능성을 갖는 기능성 원단을 개발하였고 개발된 원단의 물성과 기능성을 평가하였다.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.665-671
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• 2005

This study aims to examine the effect of structural properties, subjective textures, sensibilities, and objective handle on the preference for weft knit fabrics, and then to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics through predicting the preference. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation of textures, sensibilities, and preference, we used the questionnaire that had been developed in the previous study. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncann multiple range test and regression analysis. The results are as follows: In relationship of structural properties and preference, we could not recognize any difference in whole ranges of wool/ rayon fiber contents and in 7.5mm and less stitch loop length. On the other hand, we could find the decrease of preference in over 7.5mm stitch loop length. As to subjective textures and sensibilities, a multiple regression analysis of preference indicated a higher determination coefficient by sensibilities than by textures. But there were little correlation between a objective handle and preference of weft knit fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.83-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relationship among subjective textures, sensibilities and objective handle of knit fabrics and to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation, we used 29 questions of subjective textures and sensibilities and employed statistical analysis tools such as factor, Pearson's correlation analysis. An objective handle was measured by Kawabata evaluation system and HV and THV was calculated by KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter. The analysis of a Pearson's correlation with objective properties and handles and structural properties of knit fabrics demonstrated a highly linear relationship. Especially, wool/rayon contents and WT of tensile properties and loop stitch length and G of shear properties showed a correlation coefficient over 0.9. But a relationship of objective properties and subjective textures and sensibilities was non-linear and a linear multi-regression analysis showed that a objective handle had a lower prediction power in the area of subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.88-99
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to express visual and functional diversity through modifiable design, and to suggest a methodological model. With this view, this study was aimed to departmentalize the case of knitwear in modifiable design of clothes and propose the possibility of variable knit fashion through make the most of knit's characteristics. Four wearable physical clothes using the most of flexible knits' characteristics were made for this study based on the modifiable design on the expressive tendency and analysis of plasticity. The following results were obtained. First, as modifiable knit design can create effects of several dresses in visual aspect and functional aspect, so it has practicality and functionality. Because modifiable clothes required wearer's participation, this have amusement that give enjoyment and freshness to wearer. Second, in mode of wearing, flexibility of knit is suitable character to open & close and change of wearing position. In manipulation, a prearranged plan for line of clothes and good choice of subsidiary materials are important. Third, the characteristics of knits allow using and mixing with different pattern and materials on the two sides of the same cloths except for the some of the parts. Moreover, there is no unraveled thread on the part of knits margin against woven, so it has the broad applicable range for the changeable design. Finally, the form and function, a prearranged plan for modifiable design of clothes have all contributed in creating new structure and patterns in design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1362-1376
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the perceptions of textures and sensible images of consumers and present basic data for textile designing by analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements and preferences. A total of 12 kinds of knit fabrics were prepared and investigated in terms of the differences in the subjective, mechanical properties and objective hand measurements according to the structural properties of knit fabrics. The data were analyzed by t-test. The subjective hand attributes of wool knits through factor analysis are categorized into 6 factors. In particular, the 'active/comfort' factor is a meaningful result that reflects the unique characteristics of knit fabrics compared to woven fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective hand measurements have a greater effect on textures than on sensible images; in addition, the structural properties, 'gauge' was the most important factor to influence the subjective evaluation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.131-144
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.80-80
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• 2011

최근 환경과 건강에 대한 관심이 증대되면서, 천연 섬유를 소재로 사용한 최종 제품 역시 고급화 및 고기능화되고 있는 추세이며 섬유항균가공분야에 있어서도 천연 추출물을 이용한 항균가공이 주목을 받고 있다. 현재 항균가공에 사용되고 있는 항균제는 일반적으로 합성항균제를 사용하고 있고 이는 거의 대부분 자극성 화합물로써 인체에 잠재적 유해요인이 될 수 있고 제조 및 가공과정에서 환경오염을 유발시키는 문제점도 발생되고 있다. 반면 천연추출물을 사용할 경우 합성물질에 비해 포름알데히드 검출 등의 인체 안정성의 불안이 적어 건강차원에서 그 인식이 점차 증대되고 있는 추세이다. 천연항균물질에는 chitosan이나 식물에서 추출된 천연항균물질 등이 있는데 특히 식물에서 추출된 천연항균물질은 피톤치드(phytoncide)라고 표현되고 있으며 이는 수목들이 해충이나 미생물 등으로부터 자기방어를 위해 공기 중으로 발산하는 방향성의 항생물질을 뜻하는 말이다. 본 연구에서는 식물 중에서 피톤치드 정유의 함량이 많다고 알려진 측백나무과의 편백나무 정유를 이용하였으며 편백나무 정유가 식물성 천연 오일형태이므로 가공 처리 시 물과 계면이 발생되기 때문에 HLB(Hydrophilic Lipophlic Balance) 조건에 따른 최적 유화조건을 선정하였으며 편백나무 정유를 이용한 면직물의 항균 기능 부여를 위한 시험으로 편백나무 정유 처리 농도에 따른 항균성을 평가해 보고자 하였다. 실험 결과 편백나무 정유는 HLB 15이상 계면활성제 사용 시 물에 용해성이 좋고 안정된 에멀젼 상태를 보였으며 제조된 편백나무 정유 가공액 5%이상 처리 시 Staphylococcus aureus과 Klebsiella pneumoniae의 99.9% 정균감소율을 나타내었다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.45-45
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• 2011

최근 환경과 건강에 대한 관심이 증대되면서, 복합기능을 갖는 다기능성 섬유에 대한 요구가 증대되고 있는 실정이다. 일반적으로 기능성은 마이크로캡슐이나 후가공제를 이용하여 일반 섬유 제품에 적용하고 있다. 마이크로캡슐이나 후가공제가 적용된 일반 섬유제품은 일상생활 속에서의 마찰 및 세탁 등으로 인해 기능 저하가 발생된다. 이러한 문제점을 개선하기 위해 특수 방사 기술을 이용하여 다기능성을 갖는 섬유 제조 기술이 개발되고 있다. 다기능성 섬유소재 및 응용제품은 그 제조 공정성이 우수하고, 염색 가공 등의 후 공정 조건에 의해 기능성 저하를 초래하지 않고, 지속시간이 오래 유지해야하는 조건을 만족해야한다. 이러한 기능성 저하 문제를 해결하고 내구성 향상 및 기능성의 지속 시간을 오래 유지하기 위하여 복합 방사 기술을 이용하여 이형 단면 원사, Sheath-Core 단면 원사 등이 개발되고 있다. 개발된 기능성 원사의 경우 일반 원사와 다른 형태의 염색성을 보일 수 있으며, 염색 온도 및 염색 시간 등 염색 조건이 달라질 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 식물 등에서 추출한 천연 항균 유기물을 마이크로캡슐화하여 이형단면의 심부에 담지된 형태인 Sheath(Nylon: 50%)-Core(PP MB: 50%) 원사의 염색성 평가 시험을 실시하였다. 시험 방법은 Sheath-Core 원사와 일반 Nylon 원사와 염착 거동 시험을 통해 비교해 나타냈고, 염색 전 후의 물성을 비교해보았다. 또한 염색성 평가 시험을 토대로 기능성 원사의 염색 온도와 시간에 따른 색차 비교 시험을 통해 기능성 원사의 염색 조건을 선정하는 시험을 실시하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.38-51
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the analysis relevant to expression characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture, which were shown in knit fashion of contemporary women, as one of methods of pursuing a plan for being able to be appeared creative and unique knit wear. As for a method of this research, studied concept and characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture by preceding researches. And women's knit fashion was selected that is seen to be 3~18 gauge among the world's 4 collections from 2000~2008. The analysis was made with the analytical frame in mixture pattern, and the analytical frame in design element, and item. The results are as follows. The mixture of kidult element and high fashion was shown with characteristic of expressing humor and fun with graffiti, expression like character and cartoon, and fairy-tale fantasy through the exaggerated trifling article. The mixture of grungy element and high fashion was shown with the expression characteristic in the mixture of heterogenous pattern, and in tear, slit without the end treatment due to fraying the end strand in the knit fashion with basic stitch, patch work, fringing and tone-down gray, use of khaki and blue color, and match in opposite color. The mixture of underwear and high fashion was shown the expression characteristic with the emphasis on underwear line like volume up, or with the mixture of details such as pants in diverse lengths, mini skirt, underwear lace, and ribbon.