• 복식
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• 제66권1호
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.651-658
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• 2008

Conjoint analysis estimates how much each of the attributes is valued on the basis of the choices consumers make among product concepts that are varied in systematic ways. The purposes of this research were to evaluate the relative importance of each fabric constituent characteristic for the consumer's utility or preference, to compare with the relative importance between the trained and the untrained panelists, and to identify the combinations of the constituent characteristic of knit fabric which offer consumers greater utility. Conjoint analysis was conducted using data taken from 54 trained and 54 untrained panelists, who rated preference for 12 different knit fabrics. The stitch length had a greater effect on knit fabric preference than the mixture ratio of fiber. There was no difference on effect of knit constituent characteristics for preference between the trained and the untrained panelists. Total, trained and untrained group preferred a knit fabric that had a higher acrylic mixture ratio and a short stitch length.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권5호
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• pp.501-511
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• 2012

This study examines the effect of structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the preferences for textile designing through analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements, and preferences. The 'knit structure' was determined to be the most important parameter in rating preferences, apart from the 'preference for cardigans'. Consumers preferred washable wool to normal wool when comparing a normal wool knit with a washable wool knit on a 'knit structure' factor. Preferred structural properties showed a similar tendency 'preference for fabric' and the 'preference for cardigans', 'preference for sweaters' and 'preference for vests'. The 'sophisticated/feminine' factor showed a correlation with 'fabric preference' and the texture and sensible images had a similar effect on fabric preferences. In the relationship between objective hand measurements and fabric preferences, the KOSHI value had a negative coefficient and the THV value had a positive correlation with fabric preferences. In conclusion, we found a consumer preference for more flexible fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1812-1823
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• 2010

The modifiable design of clothes is significant in that a single garment can be presented in various ways and can be modified by user adjustments as well different kinds of figurative beauty can be expressed through the garment. This study departmentalized the case of knitwear in the modifiable design of clothes to propose a possibility of a variable knit fashion that makes the most of the knit characteristics. This study investigated precedent research, arranged general terms, created fundamental notions, found the background of the advent, and located specific characters in the modifiable design as well as arranged a concept, type, structure, and traits for the knit. The following results were obtained through this study. First, the modifiable design of the clothes can express the change of the silhouette and the change of the item itself or a change in the item according to the change in the mode of wearing, manipulation, and technology. Second, the results show that modifiable knit designs by open & close are mostly used according to manipulation and have no existence in this study according to the technology. Third, there was a noticeable appearance of a modifiable knit design from 2002 to 2004. However, it was increased again in 2009 after a steady decrease in 2005 and 2008. Finally, it can create effects in several dresses in the visual aspect and functional aspect.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권10호
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• pp.1611-1620
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• 2010

This research compares the difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities in order to analyze the correlations among preference, subjective hands, and sensibilities. Preference segments were classified into wool, acrylic, and long stitch length-preferred clusters in previous research. To evaluate the subjective hands and sensibilities of knit fabrics, the 20's and 30's women rated twelve knit fabrics by touching, using a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale. These twelve knit fabrics were differentiated by controlling the mixture ratio and stitch length using a computer-controlled automatic flat knit machine. The difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities was determined using the conjoint analysis. The clusters perceived the subjective hands and sensibilities differently according to preferred constituent characteristics. There was no correlation between surface unevenness and preference in wool-preferred cluster, while there were negative correlations in other clusters. The acrylic-preferred cluster had a preference in coolness compared to other clusters; in addition, the long stitch-preferred cluster preferred flexibility/bulkiness and extensibility than the others. All clusters preferred modem and natural sensibilities that were caused by different constituent characteristics of knit fabrics.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.95-103
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• 2008

From the research which it sees the knit which is the competitive power it will be able to be sufficient the craving of the consumers who are changing be light from the which provides the fundamental data for production the F/W season knit wear it tried to know the age unit preference moral difference of item. The conclusion of the research which it the same. From all age unit pullover possession at 5 working for living, the jacket the ratio of the person whom it does not have entirely appeared most highly. The age unit knit wear twenties meaning item preference from, thirties and forties appeared with the item which pullover prefers most, fifties selected a cardigan case, an ensemble and the jacket and it prefers with the fact that. It appeared with the style which it prefers most from case P1, P2 all twenties of pullover, the cardigan proposal case appeared with the style which it prefers most from C1, C2 all fifties. From the jacket it appeared with the style which the J1 prefers from fifties-forties. Each age especially the F/W season knit wear the result which examines the wearing objective against, twenties become popular, thirties expression of individuality, forties convenient of activity, fifties for the convenient of activity complement of activity the knit wear with the fact that it wears.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2006

In the history of fashion, the category of knitted items was traditionally associated with ordinary clothing products like undergarments and socks. However, in a mere century Chanel has changed that idea by bringing into fashion consciousness items such as sports sweaters, jerseys, and suits, and so it has been necessary to upgrade this notion. As the needs of the times and new inventions have an inseparable relationship, knit fashion was also born with a close relationship with the zeitgeist of the time - the feminine movement, the rise of sports fashion and the world war - adapting itself up to the present time through continuous changes. Most brands are elevating knit from a mere decoration into a collection piece in a large number of collections every year. The number of brands that cannot exist without knit is increasing, such as Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, and so on. This essay is written with the purpose to study the birth, growth and future potential of knit items. The first stage concentrates on the age of knit's appearance (1910s-1930s). Contingent upon the collection of further data, this essay will be continued through the second stage (the 1960s - 1970s) and the third stage (after the 1980s).

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권7호
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• pp.185-200
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fitness using the draft method to develop moderate-stretch knit block pattern for young women in Korea. The subjects were three women within the range of the ages from 18 to 24 showing the average body figures. In this study, 4 different patterns were drafted for the moderate stretch knitted fabrics, that were categorised into two different types. The first type of these was made up for kilted fabrics and the other was initially drafted for woven fabrics and altered for knitted materials afterward. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; 1. According to each sensory evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, knit block patterns A and D were the better than the rest of them. 2. Knit block patterns A and D with higher evaluation scores were drafted with body size measurements except the waist line, whereas patterns B and C with relatively lower scores were produced including the smaller ease amounts than the woven block pattern. 3. To see the results of the functional test based on the designed ten motions for this experiment, knit block patterns A and B were concluded as better than the rest of them. In addition, concerning the arm liking motions, pattern B was scored as the best among the developed patterns.