• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.36-48
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• 2022

This study aims to analyze the patterns made with knitted jacquard and intarsia techniques to provide essential data to help plan different knitwear designs using the techniques and patterns. Based on approximately 3,000 jacquard and intarsia knitwear published in the four significant womenswear collections over the past decade, eight main pattern types were classified, and each characteristic was analyzed. Firstly, it is a logo and symbol type pattern that appears mainly as a means of emphasizing a brand. Secondly, it is a traditional pattern with settled patterns from the past to the present. Third, it is a geometric pattern that appears both typically and atypically in various forms. Fourth, an abstract pattern type does not show a precise form or motif. Fifth, it is a colorful and diverse flower and plant pattern. Sixth, it is a landscape pattern that expresses nature and living space. Seventhly, it is an animal pattern type that expresses the appearance of an animal or the shape of the. Finally, it is a caricature pattern type using characters and various cartoonish motifs. Based on the analysis results of this study, creative and diverse design development of Jacquard and Intarsia knitwear and development of the knitwear market will take place.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.732-751
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• 2022

In this study, we aimed to apply 3D digital printing to basic clothing production and to propose futuristic fashion design and production methods that correspond to contemporary trends. Literature on future trends, dynamism, mechanical aesthetics, and experimentalism were used to define the characteristics of "futurism." Based on theoretical considerations about futurism, we created fashion designs using 3D digital printing methods. These designs were produced using the aesthetic characteristics of futurism; the 3D digital clothing program; and application of digital printing technologies to futuristic silhouettes, colors, and materials. The results were as follows: First, with the application of futurism as a fashion motif, we pursued collaboration between artistic work and fashion, and we then explored the possibility of creative expression. Second, harmony between achromatic and chromatic colors revealed even better dynamism and activeness, and the potential to express dynamism was observed. Third, with the development of fashion design processes based on 3D digital printing methodologies, it was found to be possible to eliminate the limitations of time and space, solve problems related to limited budget or communication, and positively influence the fashion industry by enhancing convenience and diversity. Fourth, with the development of fashion design that utilizes digital printing, it was found that problems related to time, space, or limited budget were able to be solved, as compared to the use of traditional printing and image reproduction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.779-798
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

• Journal of Information Science Theory and Practice
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.49-63
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• 2024

Information behavior played a significant role in minimizing the risks of the COVID-19 pandemic. When faced with such a situation, an individual needs information for decision-making and in order to determine the best course of action relating to their health. This study aims to explore information behavior during each phase of the COVID-19 pandemic in Indonesia, which is known for its close-knit collective culture. A sensemaking approach is used, which emphasizes the process individuals go through to understand their situation and give meaning to the information they are getting from their environment. Data was collected through in-depth interviews with 10 participants to obtain a description of their information behaviors during the pandemic. Data analysis was carried out using open, axial, and selective coding. We propose a sensemaking-based information behavior strategy framework for mitigating risk and reducing ongoing health crises. Changes in information behavior strategies, including search, prevention, and restriction of information exposure, were random at the beginning of the pandemic, but became more regular in later phases. This was influenced by the "knowledge gap fulfillment" and "use of local knowledge" among the participants throughout the pandemic. In conclusion, the participants developed a sensemaking process including an understanding of the pandemic situation and the risks that they faced. They used a number of information behavior strategies to prevent transmission, and their perception of the risks changed across the course of the pandemic, up til the situation began to be considered back to normal again in Indonesia.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.13-28
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of hippie style in emerging brands pursuing the hippie spirit, examine the changes in hippie style, and apply them to the design development process to propose a hippie style design that reflects contemporary characteristics. The research method of this study was used to grasp the characteristics and current status of hippie style based on a literature review and prior research. Through the analysis of Bode and Story mfg, a new brand that reflects the hippie spirit, the design expression methods and characteristics of modern hippie style were derived, and based on the analysis, the design of the 3D CLO virtual outfit was developed. The results of the study are as follows. First, in addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, the digital technology of the CLO 3D program was applied to the design development process, which made it possible to increase sustainability from the production process. Second, by creating a retro design centered on a striped pattern expressing freedom, revolution, and equality, and a handcrafted design based on a tie-dye pattern, the design was able to express the hippie spirit of loving nature, and through this, a new direction of eco-friendly and modern fashion design was presented.

• Asia pacific journal of information systems
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.31-59
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• 2007

We frequently use search engines to find relevant information in the Web but still end up with too much information. In order to solve this problem of information overload, ranking algorithms have been applied to various domains. As more information will be available in the future, effectively and efficiently ranking search results will become more critical. In this paper, we propose a ranking algorithm for the Semantic Web resources, specifically RDF resources. Traditionally, the importance of a particular Web page is estimated based on the number of key words found in the page, which is subject to manipulation. In contrast, link analysis methods such as Google's PageRank capitalize on the information which is inherent in the link structure of the Web graph. PageRank considers a certain page highly important if it is referred to by many other pages. The degree of the importance also increases if the importance of the referring pages is high. Kleinberg's algorithm is another link-structure based ranking algorithm for Web pages. Unlike PageRank, Kleinberg's algorithm utilizes two kinds of scores: the authority score and the hub score. If a page has a high authority score, it is an authority on a given topic and many pages refer to it. A page with a high hub score links to many authoritative pages. As mentioned above, the link-structure based ranking method has been playing an essential role in World Wide Web(WWW), and nowadays, many people recognize the effectiveness and efficiency of it. On the other hand, as Resource Description Framework(RDF) data model forms the foundation of the Semantic Web, any information in the Semantic Web can be expressed with RDF graph, making the ranking algorithm for RDF knowledge bases greatly important. The RDF graph consists of nodes and directional links similar to the Web graph. As a result, the link-structure based ranking method seems to be highly applicable to ranking the Semantic Web resources. However, the information space of the Semantic Web is more complex than that of WWW. For instance, WWW can be considered as one huge class, i.e., a collection of Web pages, which has only a recursive property, i.e., a 'refers to' property corresponding to the hyperlinks. However, the Semantic Web encompasses various kinds of classes and properties, and consequently, ranking methods used in WWW should be modified to reflect the complexity of the information space in the Semantic Web. Previous research addressed the ranking problem of query results retrieved from RDF knowledge bases. Mukherjea and Bamba modified Kleinberg's algorithm in order to apply their algorithm to rank the Semantic Web resources. They defined the objectivity score and the subjectivity score of a resource, which correspond to the authority score and the hub score of Kleinberg's, respectively. They concentrated on the diversity of properties and introduced property weights to control the influence of a resource on another resource depending on the characteristic of the property linking the two resources. A node with a high objectivity score becomes the object of many RDF triples, and a node with a high subjectivity score becomes the subject of many RDF triples. They developed several kinds of Semantic Web systems in order to validate their technique and showed some experimental results verifying the applicability of their method to the Semantic Web. Despite their efforts, however, there remained some limitations which they reported in their paper. First, their algorithm is useful only when a Semantic Web system represents most of the knowledge pertaining to a certain domain. In other words, the ratio of links to nodes should be high, or overall resources should be described in detail, to a certain degree for their algorithm to properly work. Second, a Tightly-Knit Community(TKC) effect, the phenomenon that pages which are less important but yet densely connected have higher scores than the ones that are more important but sparsely connected, remains as problematic. Third, a resource may have a high score, not because it is actually important, but simply because it is very common and as a consequence it has many links pointing to it. In this paper, we examine such ranking problems from a novel perspective and propose a new algorithm which can solve the problems under the previous studies. Our proposed method is based on a class-oriented approach. In contrast to the predicate-oriented approach entertained by the previous research, a user, under our approach, determines the weights of a property by comparing its relative significance to the other properties when evaluating the importance of resources in a specific class. This approach stems from the idea that most queries are supposed to find resources belonging to the same class in the Semantic Web, which consists of many heterogeneous classes in RDF Schema. This approach closely reflects the way that people, in the real world, evaluate something, and will turn out to be superior to the predicate-oriented approach for the Semantic Web. Our proposed algorithm can resolve the TKC(Tightly Knit Community) effect, and further can shed lights on other limitations posed by the previous research. In addition, we propose two ways to incorporate data-type properties which have not been employed even in the case when they have some significance on the resource importance. We designed an experiment to show the effectiveness of our proposed algorithm and the validity of ranking results, which was not tried ever in previous research. We also conducted a comprehensive mathematical analysis, which was overlooked in previous research. The mathematical analysis enabled us to simplify the calculation procedure. Finally, we summarize our experimental results and discuss further research issues.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.49-58
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• 2015

This paper investigated far-infrared emission characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage knitted fabrics for emotional garment. For this purpose, ZrC imbedded heat storage PET was spun with high viscosity PET imbedded ZrC powder on the core part and low viscosity PET on the sheath part by conjugated spinning method. Ingredient analysis and far-infrared emission characteristics assessment of spun filament were carried out by EDS and FT-IR spectrometer. Two kinds of knitted fabrics were made using texturized ZrC imbedded PET for measuring thermal characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage PET. Zr peak was certified by EDS measurement and it was confirmed that content of Zr was 19.29%. Far-infrared analysis revealed that emission power at the range of wavelength, $5{\sim}20{\mu}m$ was $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, and emissivity was 0.906. Heat storage analysis by KES-F7 system revealed that $Q_{max}$ of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was lower than that of regular PET one and warmth keepability rate was higher than that of regular one, which means that ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric has heat storage property. Thermal conductivity of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was higher than that of regular PET one which was caused by high thermal conductivity of Zr itself. Hand property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was not inferior compared to regular PET knitted fabric, which preferably was found to be dependent on knit structure and surface property.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.385-394
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to compare and analyze visual images between the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation with the various fabrics of flare skirts and to analyze the correlation between mechanical properties and visual images. The picture images (printed on paper) of the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation of experimental flare skirts were shown to the evaluation group of women in their 20s majoring in clothing and textiles, and were evaluated by questionnaires with 32 adjectives. SPSS Version 12.0 statistics program was utilized to analyze data. Factor analysis, One Way ANOVA, T-test and Duncan test were used to investigate visual effect of the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation. As the result of conducting factor analysis on the visual appearance, the images were driven with five factors: 'drapeability', 'attractive', 'body compensation', 'bulkiness', 'activeness'. Visual images were significantly related with mechanical properties of various fabrics, and the visual images between 3D garment simulations and real garment differed with various fabrics and their mechanical properties. Visual images of silk and polyester group, cotton, linen and wool group were significantly related with weight and thickness of kinds of fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.113-124
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to designing a scientific and systematic merchandising program for infants' wear brands. For this purpose, designer and MD working for 8 local infants' wear brands were surveyed to analyze the conditions of their designing and merchandising of infants' wears. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Only 3 brands employed MD for their merchandising departments. The average number of clothing designers employed by the subject brands was 3-5, while that of colorists was 1-2, and that of accessory designers was 2-3. On the other hand, the average number of patternmakers employed was about 1, while that of sewer was 4. 2. Many of the sample infants' wear brands tended to collect and analyze the information for merchandising, while most of them relied less on outside planned data. The information source upon which they relied most was 'local and foreign fashion magazine', followed by 'data surveyed by local and foreign department stores' and 'data surveyed for local fabric markets' in their order. Meanwhile, the main color represented 70-90% of the total colors, while the pastel groups accounted for 30-40% and vivid color groups for 40-50%. On the other hand, knit accounted for about 60% of their materials, while woven and sweater accounted for 30% and 10%, respectively. 3. In overall terms, most of brands felt that their brands were preferred as much as or less than their competitive brands, while consumers felt expensive for infants' wears. Namely, most consumers were dissatisfied with the price levels of infants' wears. On the other hand, consumers were found to favor the pastel color groups a little more, while being aware of each brand's sizes more or less precisely. 4. The medium upon which the infants' wear brands depended most for their advertisement was 'magazine', followed by 'radio' and 'catalogue' in their order. Most of them were analyzing the results of their sale turnover monthly or frequently in order to review their sales performances in comparison with their competitors. Most of brands bothered to program a sale strategy 4 times a year, primarily to dispose the stocks or find a breakthrough for their sales activities.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2013

With environmental pollution becoming a serious problem, recently there has been increased interest in the environment and health. In addition, the development of materials for environmentally friendly and functional clothing has increased. Environmentally friendly products that use bark fibers of the mulberry(dak) tree are expressed in terms of dak fiber and Hanji yarn. This research analyzed consumer's perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing. The research results are as follows. Based on analyzing images of Hanji and Hanji yarn, Hanji was categorized into four images that can be described as natural, pure, decorative, and functional, and Hanji yarn infant clothing was categorized into three images that can be described as natural, decorative, and functional. Based on the analysis of well-being elements in subjects' lifestyles, the following four inclinations were found: environmental friendliness, pursuit of novelty, life care, and environmental protection. On this basis, the subjects were categorized into three groups: the trend-pursuing group, the life-care group, and the social responsibility group. Subjects' perceived images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing were investigated, and these products were found to have a strong image of being Korean, traditional, and natural, while being weakly perceived as comfortable, functional, and practical. Analyzing the correlation between images of Hanji and Hanji yarn infant clothing and lifestyle groups revealed that these products were not perceived differently according to group. This study showed that Hanji and Hanji yarn are terms that are commonly associated with positive clothing material. However, both Hanji and Hanji yarn are perceived negatively in terms of functional image, which is an important factor in clothing material. In addition, even among consumers who pursue a lifestyle based on well-being, the functional image of Hanji yarn was not perceived highly. Hence, it is necessary to further examine the effect of terms such as Hanji and Hanji yarn on consumer choices. Therefore, caution is considered needed when using such terms in the marketing of related products.