• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.6
• /
• pp.129-145
• /
• 2001

Socks and stockings played a role as the first clothing covering foots and legs in ancient times. During the Middle Age they have represented clothing for legs and have been transformed into plasticity and aesthetic outlets for human beings aesthetic desire. Recently in around 1980 various experiments have been tried on them as part of total fashion changing as fashion trends changes. In 1990s the industry of socks and stocking in Korea has grown up as niche market, increasing the export amount twice as much as before. Therefore, this paper reveals the plasticity through historical study of socks and stockings. The purpose of this research is to analyse the plasticity by image classification of socks and stockings in 1990s on the basis of historical studies, which will be the basic data for developing high value added products. The major plasticity features of socks and stockings are material, technic, formativeness, ornament, color in a word. In 1990s the images of socks and stockings are classified into romantic, sporty, ethnic, ecology, avant- garde image. In 20th century knit and nylon became common and the part of the total fashion, completing the whole fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.3_4
• /
• pp.539-545
• /
• 2004

In this study, the effect of washing, bleaching, and abrasion on tactile and the water absorption properties of the split-type Nylon/Polyester (N/P) microfiber pile-knit was investigated under various enduse conditions. We examined the water absorption and surface properties of PET microfiber which will be very useful in the future. We also studied the variations of their performance during usage caused by friction and repeated washing, regard to all kinds of physical, chemical changes which will appear while using those textiles. Progress in further splitting of PET microfiber fabric is observed with increases in the number of washing and bleaching cycles, and treatment temperature. Initial water absorption (%) was increased with progress in splitting, which provided efficient capillary channel. Surface properties were varied with additional splitting by washing and abrasion. Formation of pilling and splitting by abrasion increase surface roughness, diminishing tactile property, and reduced water absorption property. The current results from this study is expected to provide the appropriate washing management guide to consumers, and to inform end-use performance of product to a producer for improving product quality.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.51-60
• /
• 2010

This research works on the effects of drawing conditions on the physical properties of the drawn worsted yarns. The drawn worsted yarns were made by the yarn drawing system under various drawing conditions such as concentration of reducing agent, draw ratio, setting time of drawn yarn, and concentration of oxidizing agent. The drawn worsted yarns from 2/80Nm to 2/90Nm were obtained from 2/60Nm worsted yarns, the surface and cross-sectional shapes and tensile properties of these various specimens were measured and discussed with the various drawing conditions. The drawing of worsted yarn made constituent wool fiber scratched and made it changing to polygonal cross-sectional shape. The tenacity and modulus were increased with draw ratio and concentration of reducing agent. And tensile strain was increased with draw ratio, which decreased with concentration of reducing agent.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.272-281
• /
• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.15-20
• /
• 2008

The cotton yarn was subjected to bio-polishing treatment with three commercial enzymes(Cellusoft L, Denimax-991L and Denimax-acid) to remove the fuzz on the cotton yarn. Also, enzyme treated cotton yarns were compared with singeing cotton yarns. Experimental variables of enzyme treated cotton yarn were as follow: concentration of enzyme solution and NaOH, dipping time, and processing temperature. The enzymatic treatments were evaluated by analyzing the effect on yarn count, twist contraction, evenness and tenacity. As the results, enzymatic treatment on cotton yarn induced same effects as the traditional singeing treatment. Also, silket treatment of cotton yarn after bio-polishing enhanced the tensile properties of the cotton yarn.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.67-76
• /
• 2002

This research examines the characteristic trends through analysis on cue in the contemporary fashion distinctly and systematically. It is carried out by both qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the four important street fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportivecasual and technos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s S/S. It takes frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test and etc. by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the S/S fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special makeup. 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.3 no.3
• /
• pp.69-78
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate of fabric characteristics in women's wear as reviewing the fabric trends in 1990's domestic fashion. As a method to accomplish this research, I have examined the articles related to fashion fabric and fashion trend magerzines. This study considered women's wear relatively used diverse fabrics, there was not previous study regarding the fabrics used in domestic, since the 1990's. The social fators for the 1990's fashion were the influence of the informed, the increased concern for the ecological environment, the sattlement of young popular culture, the increase of resonable consume and social anxiety. To understand the fashion trends of the 1990's women's wear, it is divided three periods. The traditional period is from 1991 to 1993, the mixed period of the naturalism and the technology is from 1994 to 1995, the retro period is from 1996 to 1999. The charateristics of the fabrics used in 1990's women's wear were the appearance of various functional fabrics, the development of new synthetic fabric with high sensitivity, the popularization of circular knit, the fabrics with a retro mood toward traditional feminine mood and the blending of fabrics. The fashion of 1990 have had the characteristics of various utilization of the materials on the base of reasonable and practical trends than the changes of design and detail.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.109-119
• /
• 2015

A wide variety of fashion materials focus on good drape property and softness. Among the recently emerging materials, Neoprene that consists of laminated knit on both sides of foamed neoprene sheet seeks a unique appearance that is considerably deviated from the current flow. Diverse processing methods for the newly released material heighten the value in function and beauty among trends of fashion materials by enhancing the appearance, touch and material property. Laser-cutting technique is one of the processing methods that is consistently used in the textile area. This study aimed to find the basic materials for applicability of laser-cutting technique to clothing goods after consideration of the changes in material property and drape shape, and to furthermore enforce different pattern conditions to Neoprene material, one of the newly attractive materials in the fashion area. In this study, we applied laser-cutting technique to Neoprene material sample under different conditions of pattern appearance, size and distance, based on current evaluation and theoretical background of Neoprene material, fashion trend and laser-cutting technique. Drape property can improve and the drape direction could also be controlled by a wide variety of laser-cutting techniques applied to Neoprene materials that have uniquely different appearances from most other textiles. This technique could be applied to the design for diversification of Neoprene clothing goods in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.6
• /
• pp.1023-1035
• /
• 2008

This study conducted a survey to find out dermatitis patients' preferred garment performance and their sentiment in spring/summer knitwears. SPSS 12.0 program was used for factor analysis, frequency analysis, T-test, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; First, in garments, patients required 'health hygiene', 'practicality in use care', 'skin contact' and 'easy movement'. Especially, 'skin contact' is an important property to be considered in patients' clothes. Second, in garment sensitivity, patients importantly considered 'modesty', 'feminine', 'boldness', 'decency', 'easy movement', 'youth', and 'simplicity'. Third, patients preferred simple and modest plain knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. And especially, dot pattern in knitwears should be avoided. Fourth, the preferred style of patients was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease.' They also preferred 'front closed,' ; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib'. Male preferred simple and plain style with round collar of 'tubular trim' and 'rib trim', while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with setin sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.6
• /
• pp.767-775
• /
• 2004

In order to evaluate physiological responses and comfort sensation of the developed thermoregulating textile material, polyester knit fabric was treated with phase change material (PCM) microcapsules by printing. Ten male subjects wearing an experimental best with and without PCMs were seated for 20 minutes, then exercised for 20 minutes, and then seated for 30 minutes in the chamber which was controlled under the temperatures of 20$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5%R.H. The subject's skin temperature, microclimate inside garment and comfort sensation of two experimental bests were compared one another. As a result, the rectal temperature, skin temperature and mean skin temperature were similar in the two groups, and the subjects were not able to perceive the differences in comfort of the two experimental bests. However, the effect of PCM microcapsule could be seen from microclimate temperature and humidity. The microclimate temperature of the PCM garment at chest was significantly higher during exercise. The microclimate humidity of the PCM garment at chest was significantly lower during exercise and rest.