• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.896-909
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• 2005

In need of studies on the kinds and structure of thread, the biggest variable factor in knitwear patterns, this study attempts: to examine the physical properties by thread type to basically establish systematic data in order to utilize various mixture and structure of yarn and to contribute to the development of optical patterns by building a systemic and scientific methods to produce knit wear patterns though a statistical analysis of the relation between the variations and physical properties. The results is as follows: with time, a feature of knit, which causes instability making it difficult to maintain the original shape, related to material properties, the weight and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the variation of wale lengths, though the amount varies by material. The variation of course contraction is closely related to density, the dense fabrics showing the highest values, due to the bust of the human body, the wale length variation of the front is greater than that of the back, by a regression analysis of material properties and the variations is obtained showing the weight, density and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the wale extension and course contraction of knit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.583-597
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world's four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$", "Intertextuality", "Intermeaning of Meaning", "Dis De Phenomenon". The results of the study were as follows: first, "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$" refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, "Intertextuality" indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, "Intermeaning of Meaning" is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the "Dis De Phenomenon". In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.161-173
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• 2005

The Main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between shopping orientations and Knit wear Buying Behavior of female college students in the U.S. age 18 to 33. The questionnaires for this survey were developed to measure knitwear purchasing behavior, including sources of information about knitwear, evaluative criteria of knit wear product, attributes f store preference for knitwear, and shopping orientation. The questionnaire was administered to 119 female college students in the University of California. The data was analyzed by percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis and ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range test. The female college students were classified into five subdivisions by cluster analysis; cautious shopping group, recreational shopping group, self-confident shopping group, shopping indifferent group, price conscious shopping group. In the case of fashion information sources of knit wear, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision in observation of others' and famous people's clothing, fashion shows, fashion articles in magazines, newspapers, and on the Internet, and shop displays. The evaluation criteria of knit wear product were significantly different depending on shopping orientation subdivision in fashionable, brand and store name, appropriate for different occasion, prestige. The store attributes of knitwear were significantly different depending on shopping orientation subdivision in product knowledge of sales personnel, store atmosphere, display of merchandise, layaway payment plan, price level, ease of parking and access, and new fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.137-147
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• 2010

This study set out to make experimental clothes by giving variations to the connecting part of a seamless sweater, propose designs and composition approaches to improve the wearing sensation and satisfaction with appearance through wearing trials, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to follow-up study on seamless knit and the growth of seamless knit in the Korean knit industry. The connecting part is the biggest characteristic and the most important part in seamless knitwear and affect the functionality and fitness of the clothes and the appearance of the armhole. The investigator thus made five different pieces of experimental clothes according to the composition methods for connecting part and put them to the test by a group of experts for appearance assessment. The assessment results were analyzed through Analysis of variance(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results, experimental clothes C and E received the highest evaluation in almost every assessment item, whereas experimental clothes A did the lowest appearance evaluation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.122-128
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• 2010

This study examined several dyeing properties, physiological responses and comfort sensation of cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal. The cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and treated with chitosan showed 99.9% antibacterial property and improved deodorization, and colorfastness. Eight children with atopic dermatitis worn underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal during 4 months. Their parents reported fewer itches of children. Wearing cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and non-dyed with bamboo charcoal respectively, these eight children rested for 20 minutes, then exercised for 10 minutes, and then rested for 30 minutes in the room maintained $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}5%R.H.$ Children's rectal temperature, skin temperature and microclimate inside garment of two types of cotton knit underwear were compared. As a result, the rectal temperature and skin temperature were higher when children were wearing underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal than non-dyed underwear. The microclimate temperature and microclimate humidity at the back of children were lower when children with underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal exercised and recovered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1158-1167
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.43-43
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• 2011

현대인들은 생활환경에서 발생하는 각종 미세먼지 등의 입자상 오염물질 뿐만 아니라 각종 VOCs 등의 가스상 오염물질과 곰팡이, 박테리아, 바이러스 등 생물학적 오염물질까지 생활공간 내의 공기환경은 점점 악화 되고 있으며 공기 정화 등의 필요성이 증대 되고 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 닥 펄프와 활성탄이 주성분인 Sheet를 Corrugation 장치를 통해 편파형(골판지)으로 제작하고, 다시 다층 구조로 적층된 골판지 sheet을 제작한 후 이를 두께 방향으로 일정 폭(20mm이하)으로 절단하여 필터부품의 소자로 이용하는 활성탄 필터의 제조 및 그 특성을 확인하고자 하였다. 닥펄프/펄프와 무기물의 혼합비, 해리시간 등의 변화를 주어 샘플을 만들었고, 강도, 평활성, 생산성 향상을 위해 첨가보조제 선정을 하였다. 이렇게 제조된 필터의 물리적 특성을 알아보고자 인장시험을 실시하였고, 주사전자현미경을 통하여 필터의 평활성과 표면을 관찰하였고 흡착성능 및 기능성을 VOCs 방출량, 탈취율, 항균도, 곰팡이 저항성 등의 실험을 통하여 알아보았다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.179-196
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• 2013

This research is about the mechanical properties of knit pullover of Shaping and WholeGarment according to structured patterns and form of the armhole. For the study 12 samples are prepared under different conditions and through comparative analysis of each sample's armhole around armpit in basic properties, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation after repeated extensions, the conclusion is as follows. As a result of comparing basic properties of structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, in all structured patterns Shaping samples weighed more. According to the comparative analysis of tensile strength & elongation of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, Machi on both sides of WholeGarment samples showed the highest strength. By comparing outcome of residual elongation by structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, both types were observed to have the residual elongation increase in the order of Plain

• Journal of Korean Living Environment System
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.533-540
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• 2017

This study analyzes the stretchability and clothing pressure of fabrics made from stretchy knit materials, and uses the baseline data to develop various functional clothing made from stretchy knit fabrics. To observe the changes in the stretchability and clothing pressure, we observed the compatibility of the two materials (tricot and power-net), presence of flat seam, fabric layering, and flat seam direction as key variables. A standard test method for stretch properties (ASTM D2594) was used for measuring the stretchability of the material. Clothing pressure measurements were analyzed in terms of the mean and standard deviation values, and the correlation of the stretchability. In the case of tricot, the presence of flat seam increased the stretchability of the fabric regardless of the fabric layering. However, when tricot and the less stretchable power-net were combined, the presence of flat seam did not increase the stretchability. Flat seam did not interfere with or limit the stretchability of the fabric, but they did increase the clothing pressure at the seam. The stretchability had a negative correlation with the clothing pressure except along the flat seam.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.11-20
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• 2011

The yarn company needs to conform to the consumers' sensibility, which has become diverse, in developing its yarn, which fixes the matter property and the sensibility in knit product. In particular, the development of fancy yarn, which is expected to have great influence upon the sensibility of material due to being a diverse form of knit yarn, may increase activation of the knit industry. Eight different fancy yarns were chosen: loop, Ratine, tam tam, fur 1, fur 2, chenille, ladder and tape yarn. The manufacturing methods of these yarns are all different. The sensibility was evaluated through a questionnaire targeting 60 women in their 20s of the expert group. Factor analysis, reliability, correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan, and regression analysis were carried out by using SPSS 12.0. First, according to the results of analyzing the sense factor, three factors were extracted: 'inflexibleness/rugged', 'lightweight' and 'smooth'. 'Activity', 'grace' and 'purity' were extracted in regard to the sensibility factor. H3(tam tam) sample showed high value in all of preference, purchase intention and word-of-mouth intention. To increase consumers' preference, purchase intention, and word-of-mouth intention, its effect is thought to be likely to be possibly seen only when increasing the factor of pure and simple grace and when reducing the hard and stiff inflexibleness/ruggedness sense. It is expected to be likely to possibly secure marketability as knit product, which has product competitiveness, given the product planning in a company of producing knit.