• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.14-31
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• 2022

Worn by both males and females the kimono is the national dress of Japan. Previous research highlights that this national dress is fading from tradition and evolves to develop with the times and fashion trends. This research aims to investigate what a kimono represents both historically and currently within Western society. The idea of the kimono being more than a national dress representing Japan, the main three themes researched will be (1) Shape (2) Narrative (3) Journey from East to West. Based on both primary and secondary sources this research indicates that there is a strong relationship between the universal increase of kimono wearers in Eastern and Western societies from history through to present day. Primary research is utilised in the form of two types of interviews. Primary outcomes bring a personal perspective to how and why kimono is worn nowadays within Europe. Secondary sources include online lectures held by kimono specialists as well as subject relevant books. From the 19th century where the Dutch were the only European country to trade with Japan, an exchange of fabrics took place which later led to the exchange of: fit, fashion and pattern (primarily within Western womenswear fashion.) This distinct garment never gets discontinued and evolves with social demands within society today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

This study explored culture adaptive attitudes and traditional dress donning practices among Japanese women who immigrated to Korea after marrying Korean men. Quantitative research was conducted on Korean-Japanese multicultural families. Participants were 233 married women who emigrated from Japan to Korea currently living in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. The data was analyzed using frequency analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The findings were as follows: First, a positive relationship was found between Hanbok acceptance attitudes(HAA) and Kimono transmission attitudes(KTA). Both HAA and KTA had a positive relationship with ethnic identity. 43.3% of the respondents thought that they belonged both to Korean and Japanese ethnicity, 30.5% to Korean ethnicity, and 26.2% to Japanese ethnicity. Similar tendency (64.8% to bicultural identity, 31.3% to Korean, and 3.9% to Japanese) was found in the ethnic orientation towards their children. Both HAA and KTA had no difference in accordance with nationality, education and income level. Second, 70.4% of women had no experience of wearing Hanbok, and 90.1% had no experience of wearing Kimono. The women mostly wore Hanbok and Kimono for social events and family weddings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.121-133
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• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to identify external form and internal symbolism of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive, inductive and content analytic methods. In documentary research, concepts about culture, dress as a cultural sub-system, the from of dress, and the gender symbolism of dress were reviewed. In objective research, oriental fashion photographs in $\ulcorner$Vogue$\lrcorner$ during 1969-1989 were selected and analyzed, for the descriptions of samples, the form of dress, the perception of waist parts, the dressing manner. The synthetic results were as followes; 1. There were the geographical and national terms such as east, Orient, China, India, Japan, and so on in the descriptions of samples; and there were the costume terms such as herem, kimono, pyjama or pajama, sarong, and so on in the descriptions of samples. 2. The from of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was identified with draped type. This can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to reveal body figure through dress, therefore, for the long time, sustaining draped type of dress has been. 3. The perception of waist part in oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was not made. So, it can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to distinguish both sexes through the emphasis of waist part in dress. 4. The dressing manners of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion were wearing of trouser and layering mainly, symbolizing the confusion of gender distinction through dress.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.