• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.62-86
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• 1970

A study on the upper garment of Korean women, JUORI The upper garment of Korean women. JUGORI, is an inherited mode from the ancient clothing style in the various aspects based on the particulars of Korean clothes. The ancient style of clothes is originated from KWAMDUI belonging to inhabitants of Northern Territory of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korean penynsula. The changes of the pattern of JUGORI, in a word, is a sign of shortening tendency of size. This tendency of JUGORI is remarkably seen in the shortening of length and other parts are decreased in size. The JUGORI in the ancient age was fallen below the weist of woman, which is similar to Robe, and was worn with band. However, the length of the JUGORI has been gradually shortened, and therefore, GORUM took place of the band. The shortening tendency of JUGORI is seemed to be shown its sign in the initial time of its origin, because there are some evidences that the women in Sylla Dynasty, and this tendency has been much expedited during the period of Koryu Dynasty with influences of Monggorian culture (Won Lynasty of China) The oldest sample for data of JUGORI in nowaday is one the remains of Yi Dynasty, and this sample for data provides all the particulars of the modern pattern of JUGORI. The tendency of JUGORI had been continued even in Yi Dynasty, and at the end of the Dynasty, the clothes was shortened that the women felt inconvenient wearing it in the status of the shortened JUGORI which was even hardly cover the initial time of epoch of modernization induced from the Western civilization, and after 1920s and 1930s JUGORI become a larger tendency. This is a sing of revival of practical use and rationalization of JUGORI become a shortening tendency again, and the size is similar with that of early age of Yi Dynasty. Instead of these similarities, the particulars of modern JUGORI is weighing on much emphasis on curve beauty and expression of experior beauty. The reason is that, together with westernization of clothes, JUGORI became a special pattern of clothes as a traditional Korean women wears. The very thing explaining this pattern of JUGORI is the "ARIRANG DRESS". And there are some fashion using button instead of GORUM and half sleeve JUGORI for summer use which is regarded as a part of improved aspect of life in Korea. in Korea.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.91-102
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• 2000

As an economy approach new state of affairs under the influence of the Shil-Hak philosophy, the Joshun society at 18th century gave common people to a chance to impress and to patronize the Arts. This social environment made an artist to drawing see and feel, this is a genre picture. Hong Do Kim(1745-1816 or 1818) was a typical genre picturer of Joshun, his picture reflected the time truthly and honestly and described vividly a life of common people, so expressed Realism what based on the actual. Therefore the purpose of this study is to analyze and to study costume of common people and their life style. The costume in a genre picture books are summarized. Man's basic dresses were Jugori and Baji uniformity, but based on the job or situation those had a little variation. People of a blacksmith shop wore that to enlarge sleeve of Bagi and Jugori and wore Strow Sandle exactly, in that way prepared for danger of treating hot iron. On the side, in the summer, Soikojambangiee and Deungguri jucksam wore at grain. The majority of hair style was Minsangtoo that Manggun not to be surrounded a head. Womam's basic dresses were Chima and Jugori, it was not to be different in compare with a woman of the aristocratic class, extremely appeal simplicity. But it was not to be of no accent on fashion even if common people, they wore a shot Dangko jugori that busts were seen below Jugori. A hair style was simple hair that her braid placed aboved a head, different with very richful hair style, Gachae that one‘s braid hair placed above a head, a hair style of woman of the aristocratic class and Kinuer. Because of common people's costume are not a special thing expect for basic dress-Jugori, Baji, Chima, many historical books or articles about costume are not existed. As the results of this study on costume of common people's life, we found that basic dresses appeared to a various types based on the job and the situation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 1985

The objective of the study was to investigate the influence of the socio-economic phenomena on the fashion of Jugori at the end period of the Yi dynasty when that women's cloth was very shortened. An attempt was made to show that fashion was not an outcome of foreign culture's influence, but the reflection for the living style and mentality of the people at that period when the socio-economic structure was rapidly changed. Alternatively, the paper tried to show the evidence that the change in the fashion was accompanied by the change in the economic structure shifting from the natural economy to monetary economy and in the structure of rural society experiencing the diversification of social classes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.4 no.1_2
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• pp.35-42
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• 1980

Gan Tack is meetings for marriage in Royal Families only. There are three selection courses before the final decision of one person, and it done with a view to finding the best person in the country. On the history of costume, it was greatly changed in Yungjo's period. In this thesis, I studied the costumes of king Yungjo, Jungsungwanghu who is the consort of Yungjo, Inwonwanghu who is the consort of the late king, Sunhigung who is a seraglio of Yungjo, Ongjus who are King's daughters by seraglios, Sanggungs who are court ladies, Yumo who is a wet nurse, and etc., for Gan Tack with Hyaegyunggung-Hong who is chosen the consort of Prince, and research the Dresses, which are Jugori, Chima, Dangui, Gonryongpo, and Wonsam. The girls who attend Gan Tack dress up Jugori whose color is yellow, Chima whose color is red, and Dangui whose color is green. King wears in Gonryongpo, the Consorts in Wonsam, and the court ladies and Ongjus in Dangui, of course, there are differences of the colors and ornaments on the ranks. Finally, I hope this thesis will be of great help to the costume of historical dramas.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.54-65
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• 2003

To accomplish the above goal of this study, I have taken the statistics about wearing behavior and design preference for Saenghwal Hanbok. This is surveyed by 354 women having jobs 20-50years old-in Daegu. The result of the study is summarized as follows. People prefer to put on Saenghwal Hanbok same as the Korea Traditional Dress in the traditional holidays and the active style that they can dress as casual clothes having the Korea Traditional Dress's characteristics as well. Form a viewpoint of appearance, people prefer Jugori have a bit spare width, the length comes near to the waist line, the type of Korean Traditional Dress's sleeve, and the round type that is linked body and sleeve in waist section and length is between knee and the calf of leg.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to design Jugori model compatible with the body types of the middle-aged women especially from 40 to 59 years old. The result is as follows: We decided five items as the necessary items for designing jugori model : the bust girth (the breast & shoulder width), the B.P length, the neck width, the armhole circumference, and Hwa-jang. The breast & shoulder width are the size that comes out if the bust is divided by the breast & shoulder width on the basis of the side line, and Hwa-jang is a length measured with arms stretched out to 0° direction. With each person's physical characteristics considered, the application of the size of each body types and body parts is as follows: 1. The breast & shoulder width (1/4 portion) : We decided B/4+2cm as a standard size and, we adjusted the extra room on the basis of the discrepancy between the breast width and the shoulder width to make it fit well to the each body type. For the breast width (1/2 portion), we bisected the difference between the breast width and the shoulder width of the bust, and moved Gut-sup to the center of the Sup and Sup-sun for An-sup. According to the body type, the movement of the Sup for the people with big breasts gets bigger because there should be a big difference between the breast width and the shoulder width for them, and for the people with small breasts the movement will be relatively smaller. For the shoulder width (1/2 portion), we curved the back center line after we shortened as much as the difference between the amount of the shoulder width/2+1cm and of B/4+2cm. The movement of back center line will be bigger for a person with leaned-backward body type. 2. The front & back length: We made the front length to B.P length+2.5cm to have Jugori cover the breast point fully around the bust line, which is a vogue nowadays. For an upright body type, we decided the back length as (AH/2.2)+5cm. And for a bent-forward and a leaned-backward body type, we adjusted the calculation formulae differently taking the physical characteristics into account. We decided the back length (A) as (A.H/2.2)+5cm, and the front length (B) as the back length+5cm. So, (A+B) is the sum of the front length and the back length. Going back to the original formula, the front length is B.P+2.5cm. So, we can decide the back length if we subtract B.P+2.5cm from the sum of the front length and the back length. To make well-fit Jugoris, the front & back length are areas that we should pay attention to if we take each person's physical characteristics into consideration. 3. Go-dae (1/2 portion) : We decided Go-dae as the neck width/2+0.5cm. For an upright body type, because the base line which went down vertically from the tragion was straight, we generally decided Go-dae Dalim line as 1.0cm. But we decided Go-dae Dalim line down to 1.5cm for bent-forward type and up to 0.2cm for leaned-backward type because the upper half of the body of them was bent forward or leaned backward from the base line. 4. The armhole : We decided the armhole circumference as A.H/2+2cm with the whole extra room of 4cm. 5. The side line length : We can calculate the side line length to (the back length-the armhole)/2, and, in terms of the trend, 2.5cm will be appropriate.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.68-81
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• 1999

This paper makes a report of Shaman\`s ritual performed among Korean resiednts in Japan as socio-historical facts, and this also examines the symbolic meanings of Shamans\` costumes. The results are as follows ; 1) At the ritual of Jungsip-Wang Maji, Shamans wear Gwandae, Kunbok, Jangsam, Durumaki, and Chima-jugori. These costumes show that their wearers are priests and gods at the same time. 2) The reason why Simbang performs the ritual in different costumes at different Jaechas is that each object-god needs different costumes to represent its different character. 3) Shamans\` instruments consist of musical instruments and other instruments. Among the musical instruments are such percussions as Buk, Jing, Janggo and Sulsae. Among other insttruments are Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung. 4)Shamans think that the musical instruments have magic powers to drive out minor demons and invite gods. Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung are thought to be the symbolic instruments representing god\`s will.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.523-531
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• 2001

The objective of this study was to trace the origins of the costume terminologies and to identify the meanings of the names of costumes of the Chosun Period. Such terms as dukgai 得盖, murot gai 무롯지 or murukai 무루깨, bal 발, bigya 비갸, bium 비음, samachi 사마치, chiene 처네, chienui 薦衣 were included in this research can be summarized as follows: It appeared that similar words to dukagai were found in the languages such as the language of the arctic regions, Mongolians, English, Sumerian, and Latin. It is considered that dukgai of Chosun was related to L. toga. The word murot gai or murukai as a kind of head covering had its origins in Korean meaning to cover or to wear. Also it was found that the word bal was derived from L.palla meaning a robe, cloak or mantle. Korean bal 발 meant a dang jugori 당저고리 or dang go ui, a kind of women\`s formal outer dress. It was found that word bium or biim, a garment of Yi Chosun was similar to Ass. birmu, a garment. The word, samachi of Yi Chosun was derived from the Manchurien word samachi meaning a kind of military skirt. The word, chiene 처네 or chienui was derived from the Chinese chien (Equatopms. See Full-text) that means a skirt, a child\`s covering, a sheet, and women\`s underwear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.218-230
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• 2012

The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle $18^{th}$ Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle $18^{th}$ Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle $18^{th}$ Century where not much excavations have been made.