• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.491-503
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern that is suitable for the lower body of upper grade elementary school girls, who are beginning to show gender differences in body shape. Four age groups of two years each were considered for girls 7 to 14 years old. The mean and standard deviation of body measurements were calculated for each age group to analyze body shape variation, and hence the body characteristics of upper grade elementary school girls were identified. The high-frequency measurements of stature-waist circumference and waist circumference-hip circumference combinations were analyzed. In order to determine the size of each part of the jeans pattern and derive the drafting formula, the pattern sizes of brand A jeans, which had received a high score in the evaluation for ready-to-wear jeans(Kim & Lee, 2020), were used as the base criteria. In addition, the body sizes observed and calculated in the study were applied. Additionally, the requirements for better fit of ready-to-wear jeans, found in the survey on jeans wearing conditions and size dissatisfaction(Kim & Lee, 2019), were taken into consideration. Based on this research, a model set of jeans was prepared with the pattern developed and its fit evaluation was conducted. Thus, a slim-fit jeans pattern suitable for the lower body of upper grade elementary school girls was finalized. The pattern proposed in this study has excellent appearance and motion functionality, and is expected to contribute to reduce the fit dissatisfaction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.357-367
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• 2020

This study collected the basic data required to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern for upper grade elementary school girls. First, a fit evaluation was made by selecting five slim-fit jeans of ready-to-wear brands. Subjects were four girls aged 11-12 with an average body size that evaluated the appearance and motion functionality of five brands of jeans. Five experts also evaluated their appearance. Second, pattern sizes were analyzed and compared with the average size of upper grade elementary school girls by measuring the pattern sizes of five brands jeans. As a result, Brand A received a high score in appearance and motion functionality. Brand E scored high with Brand A in appearance, while Brand E had the lowest score in motion functionality. For most of the five brand jeans, (+) ease was added to include a wide range of body sizes for upper grade elementary school girls, but the hip circumference, thigh circumference, and knee circumference of Brand E jeans were smaller than the average size of girls. The (-) ease was applied to make the figure look slim, which resulted in a high appearance score. However, since Brand E received a low score in the motion functionality, it could be seen that the (-) ease was not suitable for subjects although the material was stretchable. The result of this study will be used to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern suitable for upper grade elementary school girls.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.43-59
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• 2017

This study used data from a survey of adult Korean women in their twenties to learn their current practices for wearing and purchasing tight-fit jeans available on the market as well as perceptions regarding size measurements and satisfaction levels. We then determined product sizes and pattern measurements for the type of jeans worn. This study also analyzed discrepancies in product size measurements among brands to determine whether the measurements were generally suitable for average body shapes and measurements of women in their twenties. The study results were as follows. First, the survey asked women in their twenties about current practices in wearing jeans. Many respondents answered that their preferred fit is "a perfectly snug fit" and that the most common fit style of jeans was the skinny fit. Second, we selected a test pair of jeans with an identical fiber content from brands that women prefer to wear, according to the survey results. We researched the product measurements of the size respectively labeled 27 inches for each of the 8 brands' test jeans; consequently, the results showed that there were significant differences among the brands in the product measurements of each part of jeans. Third, we analyzed the pattern measurements of 8 selected brands for each area and identified pattern characteristics by brand.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.535-547
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• 2009

This study presented a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. For this purpose of this study, 6 jeans have been tested after washing finishing and we turned out appropriate shrinkage rate by evaluating the exterior of jeans and usage satisfaction. Then, a making method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was 2.6${\sim}$5.2cm, hips circumference was 1.3${\sim}$4.2cm, thigh circumference was 0.8${\sim}$3.1cm and knee circumference was 0.7${\sim}$2.5cm. Also, hem circumference was 0.5${\sim}$1.8cm and pants length was 4.0${\sim}$6.2cm. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.157-175
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• 2014

This study aimed to develop appropriate jeans patterns for men in their twenties. The study discovered designs and materials that were most commonly used by investigating preferred jeans brands for men in their twenties, and among them three brands were selected. The study carried out a fitting assessment aimed at research subjects who had the average body type of men in their twenties and who wore jeans of the selected brands. Then, the study designed research patterns by taking as a basic pattern the patterns of the company who received the highest score and modifying any part that revealed a problem. After making the research jeans in twice, a fitting adequacy assessment was undertaken in order to identify any difference between the existing jeans and the research jeans. As a result of the appearance assessment, the problems shown in appearance overall was confirmed to be improved as it received a higher assessment compared with the existing jeans overall. As a result of the fitting assessment, the study collected the assessment results of waist measurement, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and fit of back central line laid slope ease. Based on the result, the study confirmed the parts to be modified and proposed slim fit jeans patterns in consideration of the body type characteristics of men in their twenties.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.708-725
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• 2013

In the 2010s, skinny jeans were trendy, and they became a must-have for young women. The styles, clothing pressure and buying behavior of skinny jeans have been studied, but the patternmaking of skinny jeans has not been researched yet. To analyze skinny jeans patterns, we grouped skinny jeans into nine brands. They were sorted into three groups: special jeans brand, trendy jeans brand, and SPA brand. This study compared skinny jeans' sizing systems, product dimensions and pattern measurements in three brand groups. The appearance and fit of skinny jeans were evaluated by random groups of people in their 20s and 30s. The sizing systems for skinny jeans were different with KS K0051, and they were shown waist girth in inches. The waist and hip circumferences were different among brand groups. In product dimensions, trendy jeans brands had a shorter crotch length, a lower crotch depth, a narrower back crotch width, and a longer inseam than the others. The measurements of skinny jeans flat patterns were significantly different in as below; front crotch depth, front crotch height, front crotch length, back crotch extension, gap between back and front crotch depth, back crotch height, back crotch length, and center back angle. In the sensory survey results, trendy jeans brands were evaluated well in the fit of the waist line, hip line, crotch line, midthigh line, outseam, inseam, side waist line, crotch length and overall fit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.63-70
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• 2016

This study examines wearing conditions of skinny jeans for women in their 20's. The study is based on a questionnaire survey. The survey was conducted on 313 Korean 20's women living in Gwangju to analyze wearing dissatisfaction with skinny jeans. The final analysis included 298 responses and the content of the questionnaire consisted of 28 questions. The study used descriptive statistics for analysis using SPSS Statistics 20.0. According to the questionnaire survey, 20's women are the largest group that wear skinny jeans and they have a positive image of them. However, they do not know the exact size for skinny jeans, whereas they are knowledgeable about their general pants size. The results of the survey on the state of wearing dissatisfaction indicate that they think that the difference in size by each brand is the most difficult part when choosing skinny jeans and they felt lower body uncomfortableness in the waist and abdominal positions. It means that size subdivision and pattern development of skinny jeans should be suitable to all lower body types to resolve wearing dissatisfaction. This study represents base data for size subdivision and pattern development of skinny jeans.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.191-203
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $3.1{\sim}5.1cm$, hips circumference was $-1.2{\sim}4.2cm$, thigh circumference was $-0.9{\sim}3.1cm$ and pants length was $3.4{\sim}6.1cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.9_10
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• pp.1048-1059
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• 2003

This study focusses pattern draft and grading of jeans for women in their 20s, who consume jeans the most. Pattern was drafted based on existing patterns collected from companies. It is different from the existing educational patterns. It suggests new sizing system for twenties referring to sizes used companies and grading rule and method. he results were as follows; 1. Companies manufacture 2-8 sizes and they referred to the Korean Industrial Standards, KS K 0051, for their sizing system. 2. Drawing method for Pattern of the study had following measurements for each part: in the case of waist circumference, front part was W/4+1.5cm, back part was W14+2cm, front hip circumference was H/4-1.5cm, crotch line was the crotch length (practical measurement), hip circumference was (upper crotch line length)/5+0.5cm, front crotch part was 2.7cm, back crotch part was W/5+2.7cm, knee height was (the length of leg)/2+6cm and the circumference of knee and the tip of pants were 40cm. Through the wearing test on the subject of twenties, researched pattern received higher ratings, especially in appearance than the existing pattern. 3. 5 sizes system was made referred to the sizing system of companies and National Anthropometric Survey of Korean in 1997 Grading rule for 12 grading points of front part and 13 grading points of back part was suggested. Results of wearing test on the graded patterns showed high ratings similar to standard size.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.461-474
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. Research Method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $2.5{\sim}5.2cm$, hips circumference was $-1.8{\sim}2.8cm$, thigh circumference was $-1.3{\sim}2.0cm$ and knee circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.7cm$. Also, hem circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.8cm$ and pants length was $2.9{\sim}6.2cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.