• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.169-176
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• 2019

The material composition of 19 ornaments used for women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century, which are kept at National Folk Museum of Korea, was analyzed using SEM-EDS. Sixteen ornaments were composed of $Na_2O$ and PbO, which form adifferent lead glass from those that have been excavated or handed down since ancient times in Korea. The chemical composition analysis has confirmed that two ornaments belong to the mixed alkali glass, while one belongs to the potash glass IIItype. This lead glass is similar in composition to the Japanese craft lead glass that was imported to Joseon during the Japanese colonial era. It is estimated that the lead glass ornaments used in women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century were made from raw materials imported from Japan or made from lead glass used for crafts in Japan. This shows that jewelry such as jade and amber, which have been traditionally used in the modern and present ages, have been replaced by craft lead glass imported from Japan.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.117-142
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• 2020

This study aims to look for the main transport road of the ancient Silk Road and to add to the hidden history of silk, where little is known about the weaving technology of the beautiful silk of GoJoseon. The research was through the analysis of relics of empirical data and analyzed the secondary data collected from books, papers, and photos of artifacts. The research questions are as follows: First, investigates the environment of silk production for GoJoseon KyungGeum and the correlation between ancient Silk Road and the East region. Second, examines the advanced weaving technology of KyungGeum in GoJoseon. The findings of the study are as follows: It is possible to infer the production period of silk in GoJoseon through jade silkworms from the Hongsan Dong-Yi culture of 4500 BC. KyungGeum pieces were excavated in Louran, Astana and Niya of the Xinjiang Autonomous Region and Noin-Ula of Mongolia, and the oldest KyungGeum was found in JoYang, one of the capitals of GoJoseon near Balhae Bay. KyungGeum was invented in the 11th century BCE here. It became the brocade and damask of the West, which were delivered through steppe road before the 5~6th century BCE. The production of KyungGeum was possible through the advanced loom which is GoJoseon's horizontal square 'Jewharu' loom combined with a high level of weaving skill. This can't be made through the slant loom of China nor vertical loom of the West Asia. Based on these results, it is suggested to continue the research on the history of ancient silkroad.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.154-166
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• 2021

The royal seal, in either gold or jade, is used to symbolize Joseon's royal family, and it is made up of a Bonu (a handle), Bosin (a body), Bomun (a letter inscribed on the seal), and Bosu (a string attached to the seal). The Bosu was designed to enhance the seal's dignity and facilitate convenient handling. Bosu consists of Kkeun-mog and Bangwool-sul (decorated with gilt paper), which are made of Bangwool, Bangwool-mog, and Sul. In this study, the form survey, color, material, and composition of 318 Bosu pieces from the Joseon Dynasty and Korean Empire produced from 1441 to 1928 were analyzed. As time passed, the strings on the seals became longer and thinner. Bangwool-mog disappeared from the mid-1800s, and a ring appeared at the end of the Sul. Most of the colors used were scarlet, but orange and purple were also identified. Although most of the Bosu are silk, five Bosu from the 1900s and one Bosu from the 1740s (likely replaced in the 1900s) are estimated to be rayon. The gilt paper's main chemical components used to decorate the Bangwool-sul vary according to age. Until the mid-1800s, gold (Au) was used for the Sul and Bangwool, but since the mid-1800s, gold (Au) and brass (Cu-Zn) were used for Sul and Bangwool, respectively, and then brass (Cu-Zn) was used for Sul and Bangwool. While the Bosu was a seal accessory, it can be used to identify changes in the manufacturing techniques and materials of the period.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.19-27
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• 2011

By studying 'Sauidangzi' written by Honggyungmo(1774~1851), this paper shows on the location, the space organization, and the landscape culture of 'Sauidang' which was upper class's house in late period of the Joseon. Sauidang was the residence of about 530 kan(about $1,750m^2$) which was given to Jeongmyunggongju(daughter of Sunzo) by Injo when she married with Hongjuwon, located at the good place where Mt. Mokmyuk, Mt. Dobong, Mt. Inwang, and Janwon peak are harmonized all together. The residence was on the foothill of Mt. Mokmyuk, facing to the northeast. The main house was facing to the east with the inner and back yards, and the separate house(Sauidang) was facing to the west with the garden, and a vegetable field was set in the outer yard where is connected with a main road where willow trees were lined up, 'Sauidang' was called as "the garden of princess", and a stair-shaped flower garden was made to the south, and one could look down the Hanyang castle as a whole. In the garden, there were trees and house plants enriching one's mind to wish an eternal life with oddly shaped stones or flowers, and symbolizing a fairly land. There were 38 types of trees that were planted either on the ground or in pots as various bundles like 1 tree, 2 trees, 3 trees, 4 trees, 5 trees, 8 trees, and 9 trees. Taehosuk, oddly shaped stones, stone panels, stone pillars, jade panels, sundial, walls and fences, stone stairs, steppingstones, and buildings were set for the landscape. Also, the residence had rare luxuries of landscaping culture like Wangheeji's Nanjungsoogyeseo, Sosik's Cheeongjeongi, Jomangboo's Jeokbyukboo, and Anpyungdaegoon's Behaedangcheop.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.25
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• pp.51-62
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• 2021

The Belt with Rhinoceros-Horn Ornaments(known as a seodae in Korean) from the family of Princess Deokon's descendants housed in the National Hangeul Museum underwent emergency treatment for a special exhibition in 2019 upon the request of the National Hangeul Museum. Priority was given to the restoration of the original form of the severely damaged belt and the repair of its detached horn ornaments. Prior to the conservation treatment, researchers conducted a theoretical study of the belt with rhinoceros-horn adornments to learn the names of its structural components and the changes in form that the type experienced by period, thereby establishing a plan for conservation treatment and setting a direction. Among the belts worn by officials from the Joseon dynasty, rhinoceros-horn ornaments were attached to those of officials of the first rank and were considered the most precious behind the king's belt with its jade ornaments. The rhinoceros horn adorning the belt is classified into three categories according to quality. This belt has horn adornments of the highest quality, falling under the "grape design" category with dark brown dots concentrated in the center. The belt has a rectangular shape and lacks a buckle, reflecting a popular form from the nineteenth century. The structure of the belt was identified over the process of conservation treatment, offering information about its method of production. In addition, comparison of the relic with belts with rhinoceros-horn ornaments depicted in Joseon-period portraits of officials allowed the identification of changes in formal features and the detailed structures of belts with rhinoceros-horn ornaments by period. It confirmed that the belt subject to conservation treatment shows the features of belts with rhinoceros-horn ornaments produced in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

• Journal of Daesoon Thought and the Religions of East Asia
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.41-59
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• 2022

Caodaism is a new religion from Vietnam which began in late 1925 and spread rapidly across the French colony of Indochina. With a broad syncretic aim, the new faith sought to revivify Vietnamese religious traditions whilst also incorporating religious, literary, and spiritist influences from France. Like Catholicism, Caodaism kept a strong focus on its monotheistic nature and today Caodaists are eager to label their religion a monotheism. It will be argued here, however, that the syncretic nature of this new faith complicates this claim to a significant degree. To make this argument, we will consider here the nature of God in Caodaism through two central texts from two important stages in the life of the religion. The first is the canonized Compilation of Divine Messages which collects a range of spirit messages from God and some other divine voices. These were received in the early years of the faith. The second is a collection of sermons from 1948/9 that takes Caodaist believers on a tour of heaven, and which is entitled The Divine Path to Eternal Life. It will be shown that in the first text, God speaks in the mode of a fully omnipotent and omniscient supreme being. In the second text, however, we are given a view of paradise that is much more akin to the court of a Jade Emperor within an East Asian milieu. In these realms, the personalities of other beings and redemptive mechanisms claim much of our attention, and seem to be a competing center of power to that of God. Furthermore, God's consort, the Divine Mother, takes on a range of sacred creative prerogatives that do something similar. Additionally, cadres of celestial administrators; buddhas, immortals, and saints help with the operation of a cosmos which spins on with guidance from its own laws. These laws form sacred mechanisms, such as cycles of reincarnation and judgement. These operate not in the purview of God, but as part of the very nature of the cosmos itself. In this context, the dualistic, polytheistic, and even automatic nature of Caodaism's cosmos will be considered in terms of the way in which they complicate this religion's monotheistic claims. To conclude, this article seeks to demonstrate the precise relevance of the term 'monotheism' for this religion.

• Journal of the Mineralogical Society of Korea
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.57-79
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• 1993

Chuncheon nephrite, which was formed by the polymetasomatic alteration of dolomitic marble, can be classified into pale green, green, dark green, and grey types on the basis of their occurrence, mineralogical and textural characteristics. The nephrites consist obiefly of fibrous or hairlike(length/width ratio>10) cryptocrystalline(crystal width < $2{\mu}m$) tremolite, and include less amounts of micro-crystalline diopside, calcite, clinochlore, and sphene as impurities. The oriented and rather curved crystal aggregate, of nephritic tremolite are densely interwoven, resulting in a massive-fibrous texture which may explain the characteristic toughness of nephritic jade. The characteristic greenish color of the nephrite may be preferably related to Fe rather than Cr and Ni. However, the variation of color and tint in the Chuncheon nephrite also depends on the mineralogical and textural differences such as crystallinity, texture, and impurities. The chemical composition of the nephritic tremolite is not stoichiometric and rather dispersed especially in the abundances of Al, Mg, and Ca. Al content and Mg/Ca ratio for the nephritic tremolite are slightly increased with deepening in greenish color of the nephrite. Fe content in the nephritic tremolite is generally very low, but comparatively richer in the dark green nephrite. In nephritic tremolite, wide-chain pyriboles are irregularly intervened between normal double chains, forming a chain-width disorder. Most nephritic tremolites in the Chuncheon nephrite show various type of chain-width defects such as triple chain(jimthompsonite), quintuple chain (chesterite), or sometimes quadruple chain in HRTEM observations. The degree of chain-width disorder in the nephritic tremolite tends to increase with deepening in greenish color. Triple chain is the most common type, and quadruple chain is rarely observed only in the grey nephrite. The presence of pyribole structure in the nephritic tremolite is closely related to the increase of Al content and Mg/Ca ratio, a rather dispersive chemical composition, a decrease of relative intensity in (001) XRD reflection, and an increase in b axis dimension of unit cell. In addition, the degree and variation of chain-width disorder with nephrite types may support that an increase of metastability was formed by a rapid diffusion of Mg-rich fluid during the nephrite formation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.221-229
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• 1991

This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.51
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• pp.129-158
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• 2018

China has had many excellent Chinese-style animation since the 1950s. These animations are of distinctive Chinese national characteristics. They have won many awards both at home and abroad, such as "Feelings of Mountains and Waters", "Uproar In Heaven", "Why is the Crow Black-Coated" and so on. But nowadays, Chinese animations that mimics Japanese and American animation are very often, and there are few animation works with rich traditional Chinese culture. There are some works in the name of Chinese style, but they have not been fully accepted by the audiences. If one wants to create animated works of Chinese style, the author must have an in-depth understanding of Chinese traditional and folk art. Animation can not be designed only on the surface. This paper mainly studies the traditional five color concept in China and its application in animation. The purpose is to provide some references to differentiate Chinese animation from other countries in terms of style and color. The main content of this paper is to understand the concept and history of Chinese traditional five color views, and to know that this color system has reflected the ancestors' concept of nature and society. On the basis of five monochromatic colors, red, yellow, green, white and black, it is a kind of complex color concept that has been developed and perfected continuously after a long period of accumulation and precipitation in the practice of life. It is the theoretical basis of Chinese traditional color system and a complete set of historical, cultural, philosophical and religious theories. Finally, this paper analyzes the colors and their symbolic meanings of the main roles in "Uproar In Heaven", a color long animation produced by Shanghai Animation Film Studio, including Sun Wukong, the Jade Emperor and Na Zha. Color is the first visual language. The use of color symbols to express the inner feelings, status, good and evil of the characters will affect the audience's emotions, behaviors and opinions imperceptibly. The traditional Chinese five color concept has gone through such a long history, and its symbolic meaning has a more profound impact on Chinese people. Applying the color concept and symbolic meaning of Chinese traditional five color concept will further highlight the personalities and emotions of the roles in Chinese style animations. This paper takes the five-color view as the theoretical basis, and through the analysis of cartoons with traditional Chinese color, the author finds ways to flexibly use traditional Chinese culture.