• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.494-510
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop unique men's pullovers using the patterns of Baekje tile, brick, and gilt-bronze shoes. As the method of the study, it was reviewed of the literature about Baekje traditional patterns and the knitting techniques. The development of pullover design was used TexPro design CAD program. The manufacture of pullover were knitted by Shima Seiki computerized knitting machines and Brother manual knitting machines. The results of study were as follows. First, the patterns of Baekje tile, brick and gilt-bronze shoes were suited to develop as motif for men's pullover. Second, men's pullover using Baekje traditional patterns were able to maintain the identity of Korean traditional culture and express the originality of design. Third, pullover was chosen three styles and was developed four design. Each pullover design was applied four colorway. Forth, pullover products were made by wool 100% yarn or cotton 47%/acrylic 53% mixed yarn. The patterns were expressed by knitting techniques of floating jacquard and birds-eye jacquard. Luxurious knit fashions were produced. Consequently, through the men's pullover development utilizing Baekje traditional patterns was showed the superiority of the local traditional culture, which is further emphasized by the current globalization. It also confirmed the possibility of the development of high value-added knitted fashion products to meet the needs of modern people to pursue individuality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-34
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.