• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.240-248
• /
• 2017

This study compares general jacquard fabrics and jacquard fabrics with optical fiber on mechanical properties, sensibility and preference evaluation of fabric for the blind. The analysis also assesses the effect of optical fiber in the evaluation and identifies those best suited for consumers. The mechanical properties of jacquard fabrics were measured by the KES-FB system. Sensibility and the preference of the jacquard fabric for the blind were rated on tactile sensation by women experts in their 20's and 30's. It was found that the optical fiber in jacquard fabric affected the change of mechanical properties as well as sensibility and preference. Jacquard fabric with optical fiber were softer and more transformable, while the fabrics had lower recover property by shear force and compression as well as more violent unevenness. Jacquard fabrics were also classified into three hand factors of surface property, resilience and weightiness. There were significant differences on surface property perceptions and weightiness, hand and blind preferences by optical fiber. Jacquard fabrics that contained optical fiber were not preferred by the blind because they were perceived to be uneven and heavy. Those, that were smooth and light, were preferred for jacquard fabric; in addition, fabrics preferred by the blind had good compression.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.733-744
• /
• 2008

In this research, we investigated the university students' consciousness and preference for the jacquard fabrics and developed the evaluation scale of the sensibility of jacquard fabrics appied by Korean traditional motives. 23 jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 466 consumers using the 7-point scale of 23 descriptors of texture sensibility and 50 descriptors image sensibility. The percentage of students who were interested in jacquard fabrics was similar as that of students who were uninterested. 75.3% of students were shown to think that it was necessary to apply Korean traditional motives to the jacquard fabrics. Through cluster analysis, the hierarchy of the image sensibility was examined. The tactile sensibility of jacquard fabrics were classified into 9 sub-clusters, image sensibility of them were classified into 14 sub-clusters. The dimensions evaluating the image sensibility of jacquard fabrics were developed using multi-dimensional scaling method. A 3-dimensions and 6-axes system were determined, which consisted of 'classic-modern', 'splendid-plain', 'abstract-realistic'. It was shown that preference of jacquard fabrics was increased, as image sensibility such as 'various', 'gorgeouse', 'beautiful', 'mild', 'dim', 'traditional', 'orderly', 'comfortable', 'dignified', 'abundant', 'fantastic', and 'vague' were increased and those such as 'intense', 'old', 'stuffy', 'exotic' and 'static' were decreased.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.33-42
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to research the development of jacquard fabrics by the Bi-Dan patterns of Dan-Chung as one of the traditional korean symbols. For performing this design study, it designed a surface design of the geometric images in Bi-Dan patterns using by EAT Jacquard Textile CAD system and simulated to fabrics for the clothing & bags. To consider the modern image of Bi-Dan patterns in the Dan-Chung motives, the theoretical background was made on the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Dan-Chung patterns. To merchandise the fashion items and see the visual image, these jacquard fabric simulations was processed by two-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD. The applied weave structure was based on a single layer of 5 or 10 points-satin and a double layer of 8 points-satin. Among the fabric simulations of Bi-Dan patterns, the six simulated fabrics were woven into the real jacquard fabrics under the electronic Stabuli jacquard loom in $120{\sim}130$ picks per inch and 171 ends per inch. These developed jacquard fabrics of Bi-Dan patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they could make use of the unique korean cultural products by the further commercialization.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.22 no.6
• /
• pp.673-686
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to identify consumer needs and sensory evaluation of jacquard fabrics for blind using low melting polyester. Ten kinds of jacquard fabric used for this study were developed. Developed jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 164 consumers using 7-point scale of 22 consumer needs and 43 sensory descriptors. The results were briefly summarized as follows: the most important parameter to choose fabric for blind was 'Easy-use' and the other parameters are 'Lightproof', 'UV-protect', 'Design', 'Price', 'Color', 'Insulation', 'Easy-care'. The image sensibility of jacquard fabrics was explained by six factors: feminine, active, modern, traditional, pure, cozy. Higher preference was found in jacquard fabrics of clear, natural, luxurious, simple, feminine, young, cozy, graceful image. The preference was predicted 38.2% with feminine, modern, pure, cozy, traditional factors. Correlation coefficient between image sensibility factor 1 and preference was 0.437. The 3 factors (feminine, modern, pure)were selected as significant image sensibility affecting preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.1
• /
• pp.149-159
• /
• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.101-110
• /
• 2009

Danchung(丹靑) is the traditional Korean patterns that are decorated with various colorful patterned paintings upon each sections of wooden architecture. Although Danchung consists of variety patterns with the meaningful signs and symbols, as an accomplishment of Korean traditional images, there is a few fashion merchandise by Danchung patterns. Therefore, the purpose of this study is about to design Jacquard fabrics, and to develop bags of Jacquard fabric by Danchung patterns, as a differentiated cultural Fashion Merchandise. The theoretical background was researched for the geometric image of Danchung patterns on the basis of the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Danchung. The geometric image of Danchung patterns, which had the shape of circle, triangle, square and hexagon, was designed to the surface design by Jacquard CAD system(i.e., EAT Designscope by Germany) and woven into Jacquard fabrics by Stabuli electronic Jacquard system. Danchung patterns for fabric design in this study was mainly focused on 'ChipJaGum', 'SamJiChangGum', 'ShouSulGum', Moro patterns of lotus flower(蓮花), Rok-Wha(綠花) and so on. To development bags of jacquard fabric, those woven jacquard fabrics were manufactured to bags by applying the selected of twelve bag-designs among the current bag styles. These manufactured bags of jacquard fabrics in geometric Danchung patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they can be used for the unique korean cultural products to further commercialization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.299-307
• /
• 2009

The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.645-652
• /
• 2014

This study identifies consumer needs and a pattern sensory evaluation of jacquard fabrics for raincoats using quick-drying-absorbing polyester. We investigate the consumer's consciousness and raincoat improvements. Twelve kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed for use in this study. Developed jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 152 university students using a 7-point scale of 26 consumer needs and 31 pattern image sensory descriptors. Data were analyzed by SPSS. The major results were: There was a need for consumers to improve the front fastener type, cuff fastener, mesh patch position, and raincoat pocket position. The most important parameter to choose raincoat fabric was waterproof and the other parameters were vapor-porous/water repellent, design, color, fashionability, air-permeability and easy-put on/off. The pattern image sensibility of jacquard fabrics was explained by seven factors: gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic, ethnic, feminine, and cool. A higher pattern preference was found in the jacquard fabrics of unique, sporty, natural, luxurious, and trendy images. The pattern preference was predicted at 45.3% with gorgeous, simple, pure, cute, futuristic factors. The correlation coefficient between the pattern image sensibility factor 1 (gorgeous) and pattern preference was 0.674 and with factor 3 (cute) was 0.416, and with factor 6 (cool) was 0.209. The 4 factors (gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic) were selected as a significant pattern image sensibility that influenced preference.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.327-336
• /
• 2010

The purposes of this study are to evaluate mechanical properties and sensibility of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener, and to contribute to the research and development of the bedclothes made of the tencel jacquard fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective fabric hand evaluation were measured by using KES-FB system. Subjective sensibilities such as sensory, touch, and purchasing preference were estimated by using blind field test. The tensile properties such as EM, WT, and RT of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener showed increase. Bending properties and shear properties were decreased, but compression properties were increased compared to untreated fabric. With ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener treatment, thickness and weight were increased. Therefore, tencel jacquard fabrics became more stretchable, softer, and bulkier than untreated fabrics. Consequently, THV of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were increased. When fabrics were treated sequentially with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener, fabrics were estimated softer, more flexible, and bulkier than untreated fabrics. Also, tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were estimated to have good touch and preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.8
• /
• pp.968-981
• /
• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.