• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.57-71
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• 2010

This study is to understand the actual condition of design and material of peanut-shaped diaper with looking at the types and characteristics of baby cloth diapers and domestic peanut-shaped diapers registered in the Patent Office. Furthermore, it is to suggest the basic data for designing more functional and comfortable cloth diapers. Here are the research result on the actual condition of design and material of baby cloth diapers. Firstly, 11 cloth diapers registered in the Patent Office can be divided into panty-shaped and straight line-shaped diapers. There are 7 kinds of panty-shaped cloth diapers which satisfy both the convenience of a disposable diaper and sanitation of a cloth diaper, and 4 kinds of straight line-shaped cloth diapers that minimize the weaknesses of existing cloth diapers. Secondly, domestic peanut-shaped cloth diapers can be divided into peanut-shaped, inserted, winged, velcro-attached diapers. Among 23 kinds of peanut-shaped cloth diapers from 16 companies, there are 12 kinds of peanut-shaped diapers which consist of layers of cloth to make peanut shape. There are 6 kinds of inserted diapers that insert extra diapers or handkerchiefs in between two sheets of cloth diapers and 3 kinds of winged diapers designed to shorten drying time with sawing only one side of several layered sheets. Also, there are 2 kinds of velcro-attached diapers that are removable according to the amount of excreta. Commonly used materials are cotton woven of diamond jacquard and knit of diamond Hole Stitch or Plain Stitch. And for handing the edge of diaper, the method of wrapping up the edge with cotton woven or knit bias is used.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.737-746
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• 2003

This research was designed to investigate the preference for underwear and textiles of college students according to season. One hundred and nine subjects majoring in fashion design were surveyed about the most favorite materials among underwear textiles according to each season. The extent of preference was compared by season. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The most important purpose of wearing underwear was the hygienic performance in summer and the insulation in winter. 2. The most favorite textile of underwear was cotton regardless of season and the most favorite type of underwear was fashionable underwear in summer and insulating underwear in winter. 3. The most preferred material underwear was white jacquard knitted with cotton 30's yarn for summer and white and gray melange plain knit made with cotton and polyester blended 38's syro-spunned yarn for winter. 4. From the results about the factors influencing on the preference for the textiles of underwear, color, touch and cool sensation were the positive factor in summer, while insulation and pattern were comparatively affirmative factor in winter. 5. From the results about the sensibility factors influencing on the preference for the textiles of underwear, 'comfort', 'refined', 'naive' were the positive factor in summer, while 'comfort', 'naive', 'refined' were comparatively affirmative factor in winter. From the above results, hygienic and fashionable underwear is required in summer and thin and insulating underwear in winter for young people. Additionally, in textiles, cotton and cotton blended, comparatively light and simple patterned material is recommended for underwear.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1063-1070
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• 2010

This study examined 12 types of towels with differing fabric material, function, quality, printing, pile length, twist, etc. from a towel company which manufactures and distributes products domestically. After 3 months of use by consumers, a consumer satisfaction survey was administered and results analyzed. Four types of towels were assigned to each group and the towels were used every day for 3 months. Participant feelings after using the towel for the first time and after using it for three months were investigated. The questionnaire consisted of 26 questions on a 5-point Licket-type scale. The first 13 questions measured perceptions of absorption, touch, fine fiber loss, contamination, deformation, drying speed, and design. Other questions compared differences between the two towel types in terms of their material, function, quality, printing, pile length, and degree of twisting. Results showed that, with regards to weight, consumers preferred towels between 130~150g and a thickness of around 1.7~1.8mm. The bamboo towel was considered superior to the cotton towel in terms of sense of touch and did not happen linter after washing. The antibacterial towel was considered better than the cotton towel in terms of absorption but in terms of contamination, participants felt the antibacterial towel became dirty more easily than the cotton towel. We thought that it might be influence of the color of towel. Low-quality towels became stiffer and misshapen more easily than higher-quality towels. But the study showed that the consumers did not perceive significant differences in the towels' quality. Printed towels became thinner and their color changed more with washing. The consumers preferred the design of jacquard towels to printed towels. Towels with short piles was happened more linter than the towel with long pile after washing. Non-twisted towel were better than the highly-twisted towel in terms of sense of touch and absorption but the non-twisted towel happened more linter after washing and became dirty more easily.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.157-165
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.122-134
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• 2011

The peanut-shaped cloth diaper has cut uncomfortable crotch region off the square-shaped cloth diaper into a peanut-shape, and finished the edge by bias with multi-layers of fabric. This study has the purpose on providing the basic data for designing the peanut-shaped cloth diaper. For this purpose, the peanut-shaped cloth diapers on market were collected and analyzed by their shape and size, and also the patterns and differences in making were compared. 26 products from 17 brands were collected as samples. The analysis factors are the shape and size of the peanut-shaped cloth diaper, and characteristics and patterns in making. Among the samples, only 3 diapers were straight-shaped; the rest of them were peanut-shaped. The size difference between the big and small peanut-shaped cloth diapers was very large; the total length of the small one was 36.5cm-39cm which was very common, and the total length of the big one was more than 44cm. All diapers had longer width in the back than the front. The width of the front and back was different for each sample, therefore, it seemed to have some difficulties to set the standard. The peanut-shaped cloth diaper had different make-up depending on its characteristics including. absorbance, washing and drying. It was usually made by cotton woven of diamond jacquard or knit, and finished the edge by woven bias or knit bias. The peanut-shaped cloth diapers were various including a sheet of diaper, two sheets of diapers fixed with velcro, three sheets of diapers, and etc. For the patterns of the diapers, only two samples out of all had three dimensional shape, and the rest were produced using flat shape. There were no distinction between the diapers of girls and boys. Therefore, it is necessary to make the product based on scientific data about the peanut-shaped cloth diaper.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.518-532
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• 2008

The purposes of this study were to investigate the relationships between women's self-image and the preference and the wearing frequency of knit-wears, and to examine the characteristics of the design elements that influence the preferred knit-wear images. The subjects were 277 female college students and working women living in metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach's $\alpha$-reliability coefficient, Pearson's correlation coefficient, and multiple regression analysis. Four dimensions of women's self-images were derived by factor analysis; elegance, conservativeness, individuality, and maturity. Women with conservative self-image preferred simple knit-wears and women with high rate for individuality preferred splendid and sporty knit-wears. Women with elegant self-image disliked sporty knit-wears. Women with conservative self-image preferred white, and those who rated their self-image to be individuality preferred various colors including yellow, blue, green, purple, pink, and sky-blue. Women with mature self-image preferred black and beige. Women with individuality as their self-image preferred jacquard pattern and abstract pattern. There was a higher wearing frequency for all four seasons for women with conservative self-image, and there was higher wearing frequency in the winter for those with elegant self-images. Women who preferred simple knit-wears showed preference for single color with no prints and low chroma color, and those who preferred sporty knit-wears showed preference for elastic materials. Women who preferred neat and elegant knit-wears showed preference for argyle check pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.