• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.137-154
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.78-94
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze and to compare the makeup style and the ideal beauty of the Renaissance and the Baroque by examining the portraits. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, as for the Renaissance makeup, they preferred a broad forehead and thin eyebrows. The color for lips and cheeks makeup was orange and light orange in fashion. Secondly, as for the Baroque makeup, they preferred a broad face with double chin, dark and thick eyebrows and small lips. The color for lips and cheeks was reddish and clear. Finally, as for comparison the these ages, the Renaissance ideal beauty was a little plentiful women with a broad forehead, thin eyebrow. But the Baroque ideal beauty was totally plentiful women with thick eyebrows, clear reddish lips and cheeks. The color of lips and cheeks was more reddish and clear in Baroque. The Baroque women had the smaller lips than the Renaissance women and they are more plentiful and modern with a flourish than the others.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.531-539
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the Renaissance period. Fashion is a reflection of Zeitgeist. The ideal aesthetic values of each period create the concept of ideal beauty for that period. Costume represents the ideal beauty of a particular period. The aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the age of Renaissance was analyzed in terms of four categories: the beauty of male body, sublime beauty, sensual beauty, and artistic beauty. First, for the beauty of male body, the men in the age of Renaissance enlarged their chests and shoulders by inserting a pad in them in order to express their masculine beauty of human body by emphasizing their sexual organ. Second, for the sublime beauty, men's costume was exaggerated by using a pad, a ruff collar and slash. In this period, men intended to represent their power and dignity through horizontal extension in their costume. Third, for the sensual beauty, erotic emphasis were made through physical elements. In order to show off sexual charms, men padded their costumes and introduced the codpiece. Last, for the artistic beauty in the age of the Renaissance, men's costume showed proportional, balanced and symmetrical beauty. And men's costume was made of rich brocades, which were embroidered and encrusted with jewels.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.169-180
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.595-602
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• 2007

This study examined the aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style which is being considered as the representative classic of Western fashion and the transformations of those Grecian styles on the fashion of the twentieth century. This study used positive research method using literatures on art history and clothing history, fashion related publications, and magazines and websites to understand the trend of fashion designer's collections. The study results are as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style was considered to be the ideal beauty combined with symmetry, the functional beauty combined with non-construction, and the sensual beauty combined with natural body. The ideal beauty combined with symmetry appears as a style that shows idealistic proportion of a body emphasizing high-waist based on the golden ratio and the body as a whole rather than details. The functional beauty combined with non-construction appears as perfect recreation a body in its original and natural form. The clothing takes a form that does not have any structural design and has simplified cutting and sewing. It uses pins and strings to fix up the form of clothing which is flexible and naturally draped. The sensual beauty combined with natural body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism in neoclassic period. Throughout the twentieth century, the desire for Grecian style was conveyed by a single detail or through an array of allusive effects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.139-154
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• 2002

This study selects mannequins. fashion models. and fashion photographs as communication media to express the beauty of an ideal body. Each medium is discussed by the denotative and connotative aspects through the semiology. First, the mannequins are the most concrete medium which can form women's ideal body types and reproduce images in which the idealistic human body are coded in various figures. It embodies such various figures of the modem society by being replaced with the symbolic representation of our intrinsic·extrinsic forms. From a denotative view, the mannequins can be explained by ideal body types and expressive tools. The mannequin has implied connotative meanings of the similarity and dissimilarity between the actual body and itself. Second, fashion models have played a role in transmitting fashion images and presenting the ideal body. As fashion has adopted the body as its object fashion models have been used to express an ideal body. The development of the mass media in the 20th century has defined the standard of the beauty, Both the relationship between fashion designers and fashion models. and the standardization of beauty and fashion models are reviewed from a denotative view. Fashion models imply connotative meanings of the figurative and the controlled property. Third, fashion photographs are historical documents presenting us with the evidence of the ideal body types and culture throughout time. The photographs could be adopted as proper means to express fashion. having realistic and practical expressional functions, and it can be said that the realistic and practical expressional function of photographs has served as a suitable means for express fashion, and fashion photographs are discussed. The fashion photograph has the reproducible and the symbolic property.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.4 s.44
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• pp.357-369
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.15-23
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to interpret consistently a phenomenon in Korean Women's ideal body with analyzing the change of the body of winners in beauty contests such as Miss Korea and Super Model. The method of this study was to investigate the objective data of body size of winners in beauty contests. The meanings in the change of Korean Women's ideal body are as follows. First, the body have got the commercial value with the start of Miss Korea contest and maximized its commercial purpose with the introduction of Super Model contest. While Miss Korea contestants are evaluated by their body, character, intelligence altogether, Super Model contestants are evaluated by body itself than other factors. So the body of Super Model is accepted as the highly value added commodity. Second, a tall height as a natural gift anions characteristic of the ideal body have become the significant factor of the myth of social and commercial success.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop Blue-Jean Design for Ideal Body Shape. The final aim of Fashion design is looks beauty of people by optical illusion. This study is based on Gestalt therapy and, is blue jeans design using optical illusion of vertical line for ideal beauty body image. Optical illusion for blue-jean design effect to achieve the ideal body shape. We can accumulate the preceding study for modern clothing from design and the related optical illusion effects. Vertical line stitches have all the advantages especially in pants design. I design blue jeans using optical illusion theory. The results of this study are as follows: First, Vertical line helps that jean has the long body shape effectively. Second, Jeans which have two or more vertical lines is more effective than simple Jean in order to make slim body shape. Third, Appropriate position of horizontal lines can be effective to make long body shape. Fourth, Top stitch, pin-tuck and pleats can be applied to vertical or horizontal lines instead of cutting lines.