The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference: vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.
In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.
In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress of Bouyei People of Guizhou Province. The resuits of the study ara as follows. 1. Women's dress and adorment can be categorized into three styles. In the Zhenning, Guanling and Puding regions and northwestern areas of Guizhou Province, women usually wear blouses with overlapping necks, batik pleated skirts and long aprons. They also wear embroidered kerchiefs or turbans. In the suburbs of Guiyand City and Southwestern Guizhou Province, women like to wear blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, trousers, blue or black and white check cloth kerchiefs. In the Luoping region, women wear blouses with loose sleeves and buttons arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. 2. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front or arranged on the front, trousers and calottes. 3. Most of their dress materials are white and coloured handwoven, tie-dyed or batik cloth. The exquisite technique of batik and tie-dyeing has a long history, which began to become prevalent in the Song Dynasty. 4. Now, people use all kinds of techniques to make their dress and adornment, including batik, tie-dyeing, cross-stitch, brocade and embroidery, which reflect their peculiar aesthetic temperament.
In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.
Throughout history, tennis-wear designers have attempted reforms to the designs, which were swayed a lot by game rules, and more efforts than ever are put forth recently. The efforts to introduce fashion designers into tennis brands and to break down the barriers between sports brands and common fashions have contributed to the advancement of tennis-wear. Howver, designers are not the only contributors to the development and innovation of tennis-wear. Tennis players who are well aware of the design make-up may affect some aspects of tennis-wear. Even some tennis players launched certain tennis-wear brands. They are not just players in games, but also innovators of this certain type of clothing. In this sense, they design, select, and put on tennis-wear as designers and players, which has contributed a lot to variation and advancement of tennis-wear. Such diversified of attempts in terms of design have led to the variety of tennis-wear, and adopting certain features of other sportswear has enhanced the functionality as well. As for materials, functional materials as well as lingerie look and laceworks as in dance looks were used, and even nude-color short pants were introduced to represent such images of fantasy and illusion. As for color as well, a revolution of color, which has been a taboo, was led. The popularity of tennis-wear fashions even leads to combination with features of other areas, which has been more diversified by the collaboration with designs inspired by toga of Greece and various other areas such as films and arts.
the present thesis aims to contribute to the further development of the men's wear indus-try in Korea which now confronts the need to adjust itself more actively to the conditions of the coming age of internationalization and free trade. To achieve this this thesis suggests the trade should provide for the changing domestic needs on theone hand and refine its wares as high value-added products in compe-tition with those from the advanced countries in fashion industry on the other, The history of the 'suit' the standard men's attire dates back to 1850 when the 'Ditto suit' was introduced composed of coat waist coat vest and trousers to remain virtually unchanged till the end of the nineteenth cen-tury and the modern men's wear originated in Britain. In Korea since the introduction of western clothes from 1876 custom-made suits had been dominant until 1944 while western clothes earned popular currency between 1945 and 1964 and ready-made suits began to spread with their advantages recognized in terms of practicality convenience and functionality The next phase from 1965 to 1985 witnessed the establishment of a number of ready-made brands although custom-made suits stayed in their height of prosperity until 1975. The turn-ing point for the men's wear industry came in 1975 when high-calss ready-made brands be-gan to turn up with the arrival of large companies in the market matching the change in consumers' life style. The men's wear market went through further diversification and specialization dur-ing the years between 1985. and 1990. Around the year 1990 however the expansion of the business suit industry came to slow down ac-companied by an oversupplied market. The fashion of pragmatism in the 1990s called for the growth of the casual wear department and as consumers' life style became more and more individualized conscious dressing in accord ance with T.P.O established itself as an important branch of culture, Such casual boom is likely to aid in promoting Korea's men's wear indus-try to peer with that of advanced countries. Consumers' fashion sense is now ahead of the trade's as well as being shortcycled highly individualized stylized and diversified. To meet consumers' demands under such circum-stances each company is required to develop its unique soft Know How based on accurate information and strategically specialized plan-ning. The trade should convert its hithero producer-oriented strategy to a new consumer oriented one and actively lead the needs and purchasin g pattern of consumers by providing an efficient and reasonable price policy with optimum supply of merchandise and also by presenting 'our' trend suited to our circum-stances.
The object of this article is to examine the shapes and the development of the costume worn in the early and middle Yi Dynasty from the viewpoint of the history of customes with the excavated clothing from Chung-Ju (1530 A.D.), Wool-San (1650 A.D.), An-Dong (1650 A.D.) etc. The study of the history of costumes of the early years of the Yi Dynasty has been mainly dependent upon fiblirographical records sofar. So I have arranged in order some excavated clothing of the early Yi Dynasty, which gives us some means for the study of Korean historical costumes. It is noticeably remarkable that the daily wear of the early Yi Dynasty period was excavated for the first time from Chung-ju. The results drawn from this research are: It is argued that the original from of Chul-nik(天翼) has been excavated. This is the remnants Mongolian clothing of the Koryo Dynasty, and it is sketched in the Dai-Myong-jib-lei(大明集禮) as Yo-sun-o-ja which the lower classes usually put on. The similar clothing is also handed down as a Dan-po(緞袍) from the ming Dynasty, and we can presume that Chul-nik was a common clothing regardless of the social status of their wearer. It is also remarkable that even women at those times wore the Chul-nik. The length of the Cheo-go-ri of the early Yi Dynasty was the middle hip length, and the edge of the sleeves was very wide which called Cham-soo, and it was handed down to the middle period of the Yi Dynasty which can be seen in the coat (po) of women(直領袍). The systems of the straight-collar Po(袍) during the early Yi Dynasty were discovered for the first time. This Po(袍) which would represent the po-system of the early years of Yi Dynasty, is handed down even to the middle of Yi Dynasty. The collars of the Po(coat) of the early Yi Dynasty are mostly double collars(二重衿) and these give us the advantage in reconsidering of the cheo-go-ri(赤古里) of the Kingdom of Shin-la, or Koryo Dynasty. The edge of the women's Ba-ji(袴) of the early Yi Dynasty was wide and the Ba-ji had a shoulder belt which connect the front part with the back one, which showed the practical point of Ba-ji. The men's Ba-ji of the middle Yi Dynasty was the same as can be seen today and it is clear that the Mongolian Ba-ji dated to B.C. 1 was the same one also. In the system of the Chi-ma(常), there seems to be no differences between the ancient styles and those of these times.
The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.
This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.
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