The purpose of this research is to better understand the Dongmyo, the Eastern Shrine of GuanYu and the military costumes of the Joseon period andto develop different cultural contents. By studying relevant literature, confirmations were made about the various types of costumes and their historical changes. During the reign of King Yeongjo, the ceremonial conductors often wore armors, and the king wore a different military costume. During the reign of King Jeongjo thereafter, the ceremonial costumes were codified in the book, the Chun-gwan tonggo(General Outline for the Ministry of Rites), along with the costumes for the musicians and lower officials. However, the military features were weakened in the late Imperial Joseon years. In terms of costumes, it would be best today to restore the ceremonies of the Shrine of Guan Yu during the period of King Jeongjo. All the costumes for different figures of the Shrine are clearly confirmed, and by emphasizing the main features of the ceremonials of the Shrine, it is possible to differentiate the ceremony from other restoration activities in Korea. For the Guan Yu statue, the hat is square shaped and decorated with nine bead strings, it is dressed with a red dragon coat and a violet inner coat. This study presents methods for the restorations of the original costumes for the individual figures of the ceremonials, with necessary theoretical explanations. The king wears the lamella gold armor, while different ceremonial officials wear differentiated armors according to their different ranks. All the civil and military officials who attend the ceremony wear military clothes with horse's mane hats and swords. The musical conductor and directors are expected in armors and participating musicians also have to wear armors according to the Akhak Gwebeom (Basics of Music).
Objective: Rhus verniciflua Stokes (RVS) has anticancer effect confirmed by preclinical studies and historical records. We thus tried to evaluate retrospectively the effect of RVS as a complementary medicine for patients with advanced non-small-cell lung cancer (NSCLC) showing refractory to conventional chemotherapy. Patients and Methods: From June 1, 2006 to June 30, 2007, patients with advanced NSCLC who received both the standardized RVS extract and a standard course of second or more line therapy such as pemetrexed ($Alimta^{(R)}$), erlotinib ($Tarceva^{(R)}$), and gefitinib ($Iressa^{(R)}$) were checked. A total of 13 patients were eligible for the final analysis after fulfilling inclusion/exclusion criteria. Time to progression (TTP) of these patients treated with the standardized RVS extract was checked in the aftercare period. Results: Patients received RVS treatment for a median period of 296 (range 84-698) days. The median TTP was 220.5 (range 36-489) days, and three patients (23.1%) had TTP values of 15 more months. No significant side effects from RVS treatment have been observed. Conclusion: The standardized RVS extract might have synergetic effects by assisting apoptosis in advanced NSCLC with concurrent standard therapy agents, since it prolonged TTP without significant adverse effects. This study suggests that the standardized RVS extract is beneficial to patients with chemotherapy-refractory NSCLC. Further clinical trials and preclinical studies are necessary to determine the efficacy and safety of the standardized RVS extract in NSCLC.
This study was carried out to forecast long-term supply and demand of chestnut and to analyze the impacts of change in the environment of domestic and international chestnut markets. For these ends, the study developed a partial equilibrium market model, in which in-shelled chestnut market was vertically linked to shelled chestnut market. To examine the predictive ability of the model for the endogenous variables ex-post simulation was run for the period 1990 through 2003. In general, all endogenous variables reproduced the historical trends during the period except for disuse areas and newly established areas. The results of forecasting supply and demand show that domestic in-shelled chestnut production is estimated to decrease slightly from 76,447 ton in 2005 to 76,286 ton in 2020 and that exports of shelled chestnut continue to be decreased.
The Mural Tomb of Xu Xianxiu(AD 571), a high ranking official in Northern Qi period, is located in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, China. Despite having been raided, it was still discovered to contain over 530 pieces, such as artifacts and murals, in excellent state of preservation. These murals are noteworthy for their high level of detail compared to other murals from the same era, and are important for understanding the historical context of active East-West and Han-Hu cultural exchange in the $6^{th}$ to $7^{th}$ century. The murals of Xu Xianxiu's tomb depict round-collared and narrow-sleeved garments as well as straight collared robes typical of the Xianbei tribe's attire. Notable are the ermine fur overcoat and a headwear with flares on the left and right thought to be unique to the Xianbei. The wife and female servants show female attire of the Xianbei at the time; this attire can be characterized by narrow-sleeved long gowns and asymmetrical flying-bird buns. Despite the anti-Han policy of Northern Qi, influences such as the right sided gathering of the robes and embellished hair styles remain. The procession also depicts the three-cornered headdress and long-tailed hood of the Xianbei men, which have been recorded in documents. The large rounded pearl pattern containing the palmette, the divine animal, and bodhisattva's head motifs show the influence of the Western China [Xi'yu]. Considering that Northern Qi had more active interactions with the three ancient kingdoms of Korea than with the Southern Kingdoms[Nanchao], the findings of this study call for further research on the correlation between the attire of ancient Korea and Northern Qi.
This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.17
no.2
/
pp.27-43
/
2015
Festival costume shown in festival parades targeting historical events or figures helps to understand the theme of festival and grants visual effects and at the same time, is an important factor to identify then-cultural environment. Accordingly, this study aims to make a periodic review of traditional costumes used in parades for Hanseong Baekje Cultural Festival and Yeongam Wangin Cultural Festival which are both the festivals that backgrounded Baekje period, make a comparative analysis of the archetypes of reproduction costume vs Baekje costume, understand the problems of festival costume, and seek developmental directions. After making a comparative analysis of reproduction costume shown in festival parades, it was found that king costume, queen costume, governmental official costume, and humble class costume were all different from Baekje costume in terms of configuration, materials, color, shape, and creating method of costumes, and problems were drawn. When it comes to costume items, Pasul and Danryungpoh that didn't belong to Baekje period were worn. The problems in color research can be identified in governmental official costume. The problems in type of costume are shown in the length of po worn outside, margin of width, and degree of restoring accessories. Therefore, it seems to be necessary to convey and identify costume creating method by festival parade-related persons.
This study examines research trends in the dissertations and journal articles on stage costume so as to provide basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December, 2012 and retrieved by a keyword related to the "design of stage costume", "costume for performing art", and etc. Theses and articles for the analyses were a total of 200 published. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 8 Chronicles of 5 years in each term. The findings of the study are as follows: According to the chronological analysis, there has been a steady increase in the rates of the musical, ballet, dance, and circus costume and cutting edged technology such as LED has been utilized in the performing art, currently. The real production and making up of the costumes have been increasing as well by replacing of illustration and rendering of the costumes. In the recent costume of the performing arts show the tends of the visual effects and up-sizing, comprehensiveness and fusion. From the analysis of the background of the work, those were confirmed that the most common historical period was modern period, and places were France, England, and Egypt. In regard to research themes and methods, many of research papers utilized content analysis method, character analysis method as research methods. The most popular presentation of the costume designs was "rendering", "costumes schedule" and "illustration". However, development and explanation of the patterns was insufficient and constructions methods and real works(costumes) were usually omitted in the articles.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.37
no.5
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pp.691-703
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2013
The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.41
no.2
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pp.341-351
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2017
This study evaluates a cleaning method to maintain and minimize the change of blood soil for the selective removal of stains from textiles with historical significance and special meaning. Cotton and silk fabrics were soiled with blood, aged artificially and then washed by wet cleaning or dry cleaning (water, nonionic surfactant; Triton, natural surfactant; saponin, organic solvent; n-Decane). The washed fabrics were stored at room temperature for four years. The change of the blood soil was evaluated by SEM, weight, thickness, and color differences. Subsequently, the shape and the amount of blood adsorption on the fabric varied depending on fiber type and fabric structure characteristics; in addition, long term storage affected changes to blood soil. It was difficult to remove artificially aged blood soil from fabrics by wet or dry cleaning. However, the changes of the blood soil by these cleanings can be explained by the changes on SEM, weight, thickness and fabric color. The changes (especially color) showed over time. Wet cleaning showed that the changes of those factors were slightly lower than those by dry cleaning.
This study evaluates the performance of Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) model in simulating temperature over the COordinated Regional climate Downscaling EXperiment-East Asia (CORDEX-EA) Phase 2 domain for the reference period (1981~2005), and assesses the changes in temperature and its extremes in the mid-21st century (2026~2050) under global warming based on Representative Concentration Pathway (RCP) scenarios. MPI-ESM-LR forced by two RCP scenarios (RCP2.6 and RCP8.5) is used as initial and lateral boundary conditions. Overall, WRF can capture the observed features of temperature distribution reflecting local topographic characteristic, despite some disagreement between the observed and simulated patterns. Basically, WRF shows a systematic cold bias in daily mean, minimum and maximum temperature over the entire domain. According to the future projections, summer and winter mean temperatures over East Asia will significantly increase in the mid-21st century. The mean temperature rise is expected to be greater in winter than in summer. In accordance with these results, summer (winter) is projected to begin earlier (later) in the future compared to the historical period. Furthermore, a rise in extreme temperatures shows a tendency to be greater in the future. The averages of daily minimum and maximum temperatures above 90 percentiles are likely to be intensified in the high-latitude, while hot days and hot nights tend to be more frequent in the low-latitude in the mid-21st century. Especially, East Asia would be suffered from strong increases in nocturnal temperature under future global warming.
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