• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.11-25
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• 2015

This study analyzed features in contemporary men's collection to provide data for characteristics of kitsch in men's collection. The research method was to see background of the concept of kitsch through the domestic and international publications, the Internet, paper. Five designers' collections that have characteristics of kitsch were selected. The range of collection is from the 2000 S/S to 2011 F/W in Men's collection. The results are as follows: kitsch characteristics could be classified by amusements, inappropriateness, satire. First, exaggerative amusements in men's collection appeared exaggerated form, large size, which is ridiculous at the same time. Infantile amusements represents the image of a pure concentric matching accessories such as toys to the children express. sensual amusements reveals the sexual instincts and desires and people can feel satisfaction through sensual amusements. Second, inappropriateness is characteristic of kitsch to escape from normal life. Clothing does not fit the body and destroyed the design or design of this feature appears. It looks clumsy and strange. Inappropriateness characteristic in men's collection can be divided into inadequate performance and sexual inappropriateness. Third, satire can be divided into resistant satire, imitative satire, and popular satire. Resistance satire with anti-social tendencies through their clothing is achieved by expressing their needs. It was affected by sub-culture like Hippie or Punk. Imitative satire is to imitate other culture, customs and race. It is to resolve complaints through the consumption of things in disparities of wealth and materialism in the society. Popular satire is to express emotions that are free using materials that can recycling like can, bottle or paper.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.60-76
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• 2009

Expression of woman characters in fusion traditional dramas plays a role of making the progress of dramas not bigoted and new. Especially, woman characters have a high weight as a heroine by an increase in their image in fusion traditional dramas. Expression of characters harmonizing modern with tradition has also given a help in reflecting a trend of the present times. Hair style and face makeup of woman characters in fusion traditional dramas are in the process of fusionization getting an effect from postmodernism. They are expressing the hair style of symbolization modern elements of hair style to traditional hair styles. They also expressed a neutral image with faded hair styles in the shaggy cut style and dye of neoplaticism. Neo-hippie style was changed into the style of naturalism and nationalism and the hair style braided in various branches as the one of Indians was changed into a primitive and national feature. It is producing a new style by permitting even a long-hair permanent wave hair style. Expression of straight hair style, a long-hair shaggy & bulging wave style and a hair style of neoplaticism, was distinguished. In the side of face makeup, they expressed its luxurious and splendid style by attaching great importance to its luster and are exposing images of characters by a smoky makeup emphasizing eye lines. Their face makeup was almost never separated from present dramas as using pearl shadow in a glossy lips makeup and color, which made it possible to express it more dramatically in fusion traditional dramas than in present dramas. In the event of the makeup element of fusion traditional dramas permitting diversity, the character makeup of fusion traditional dramas made a foundation to show people diverse elements of makeup by mix & match a present elements and past elements of historical research, which made it possible to express a unique makeup or a special makeup. Diverse makeup expressions were limited by reflection of illumination even in the existing videos. Therefore, 'Fusion' made it possible to express it more freely in fusion traditional dramas than in present dramas.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.92-104
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• 2005

This study aimed to reveal the concept and background of emergence of black leather jacket that began appearing in full-scale among youth sub-culture from 1950's, and to research its styles and aesthetic features on the basis of that. The researcher has intended to a theoretical frame to recreate black leather jacket which has been developing in youth sub-culture style as a resource of new design in modern fashion trend through this study There are 5 styles of black leather jacket in youth sub-culture after 1950's. Firstly, biker style black leather jacket showed ruined war heroes substituting for military uniform. Secondly, rocker style black leather jacket brought the conversion in definition of masculinity. Thirdly, greaser style black leather jacket showed the beauty of uncleanness expressing resistance and violence with tattered dirty materials and excessive metal ornaments. Fourthly, headbanger style black leather jacket was prominent in various and compound decoration due to combination of rocker and hippie features. fifthly, punk style black leather jacket was influenced greatly by Sex Pistols. There are broadly three ecstatic features oi black leather jacket among youth sub-culture. With regard to displaying terrorism, black leather jacket displayed threatening aspects with black color, formative beauty of inverted triangle, additional decoration, and animal & brutal feelings. Paradoxical trophyism showed Nihilism, disorder, and resistance through black color that symbolize bad luck and unstability, trophyism with bad flavor, tattered material effect, and destructive message painting. Masculine eroticism appeared in accordance with pursuing after pleasure and masculine sexuality through exposure of buttocks and focused penis due to jacket's short length, and fetish of black.