• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.6
• /
• pp.140-158
• /
• 1999

The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Proceedings of the ESK Conference
• /
• 1997.10a
• /
• pp.40-55
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study are to examine the characters of the lower half body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks patttern on the base of four difference body shapes as follows. The lower half body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouette, whose characters were summarized as followings. (1) "Type 1" meant the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips. (2) "Type 2" showed the body shape with prominent hips, which had the flat abdominal silhouette and the greatly curved hips silhouette. (3) "Type 3" was the body shape with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, in which the frontal view silhouette of the abdomen was greatly curved and the rear view silhouette of hips is less curved. (4) "Type 4" was characterized with prominent abdomen and hips. The slaks patterns were based on the lower half body shape characters and resulted in followings. (1) In the type 1, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4{\times}0.5cm+0.5cm+fold(2.5cm) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-0.5cm+dart(3.5cm). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-0.5cm due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. (2) In the type 2 experimental pattern, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0cm and 2.0cm separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+ 1.0cm+fold(2.0cm), the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-1.0cm+dart(6.5cm), the front hip girth H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. (3) In type 3, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+fold (4.5cm) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+dart(3.0cm). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.5cm-0.5cm. (4) In type 4, considered were $\circled1$ the increased fornt fold amount due to the abdonimal protrusion, $\circled2$ the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and $\circled3$ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5cm+2.0cm+flod (5.0cm), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5cm-20.cm+dart(4.0cm), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.38
• /
• pp.279-288
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this paper was to find out obese women's respective characteristics of torso body shape. The subjects were 132 obese women for direct measurement and were 101 obese women for indirect measurement, age of 20~59. The criterial of obesity base on Rohrer index($\geq$1.6) and busts girth ($\leq$90). The results were as follows : 1) In comparison with the average body shapes in common body types, in 30's was bigger in the bust and waist girth than the different age groups. 2) According to the difference in the basic girth(bust and waist girth, hip and bust girth, hip and waist girth) the body types were classified 2 groups. Types 1 was large bust and slightly curved from waist to hip. Type 2 was large hip and larger in the curve from waist to hip than type 1.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 1982

This study was to investigate the changes of shape of the lower limb surface, the rate of the measurement of expansion and contraction and correlation coefficient between variables caused by hip joint and knee joint movements. The results of the investigation are as follows; 1. According to the development figure of shell when the leg was raised $45^{\circ}$forward($M_{2}$), total length of F.L shortened while B.L lengthened. This result is contarary to $M_{3}$raising the leg $15^{\circ}$ backward. In both $M_{2}$, $M_{3}$movements, the rate of expansion and contraction to the course direction was insignificant. When hip joint was bent $15^{\circ}$ with knee joint $120^{\circ}$bent ($M_{4}$) and hip joint was bent $30^{\circ}$ with knee joint $90^{\circ}$ bent($M_{5}$), upper section of back hip expanded while the front hip section contracted slightly. In the Movement of sitting on the chair($M_{6}$), abdomen, front hip section and upper thight section contracted to the wale direction remarkably while the back hip section expanded conspicuously. 2. According to the rate of expansion and contraction of skin (surface) by the somatometry. In $M_{2}$, C.F.L. upper and middle thight girth contracted and B.L, C.L, L.L expanded. This fact is contarary to M3. In M4, M5, C.F.L showed remarkable contraction and C.B.L expanded remarkably. In $M_{6}$, C.B.L contracted most of all the items measured and knee girth, F.L, L.L, C.B.L, hip girth expanded conspicuously. 3. According to the correlation coefficient between variables. In various movements, the correlation among girth items commonly showed a high or middle grade, the correlation among length items also commonly showed a low grade and that girth and length items showed a very low grade commonly. Waist girth, hip grith, F.L, B.L, L.L items showed that there were significant correlation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.143-153
• /
• 2004

The Purpose of this study is provide fundamental data on a suitable sizes of ready-to-wear for women. The subjects of the survey were 300 female of 18 to 24 years old. They were measured direct anthropometry. Height, bust girth, waist girth and hip girth were grouped by KS interval. Data were analyzed by use of Cross Tab method. The results of this study were as follows. Body group of the anthropometric measurements were summed up as follows. Height was divided into 4 section(155-170), bust girth was divided into 7 section(76-94), waist girth was divided into 6 section(61-76) and hip girth was divided into 9 section(84-100). The characteristics of cross tab can be summarized as follows. Section with application ratio are 155-160cm of height, 82-85cm for bust girth, 64-70cm for waist girth and 86-94cm for hip girth. The sizes of high cover ratio of well-fitting jacket, dress, coat and one-piece was 17 sizes, well-fitting an upper garment and the whole body garment item except that was 16 sizes, and a lower garment was 21 sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.621-631
• /
• 1974

The objective of the study was to obtain standard sizes of body of the high school girls for designing clothes and developing pattern grading of clothes. In 1972, 342 students, selected by the stratified cluster random sampling method, at three high schools in Seoul were measured on forty-one items by the R. Martin method. Statistical techniques of mean, standard deviation, coefficient variable, maximum and minimum, range, t-test were utilized to analyze the data. The findings of the study were as follows ; 1. No differences were found among the age groups in the all measured variables. 2. Stature, bust girth, hip girth, acromion width, posterior waist girth/stature ratio of the high school girls were significantly smaller than those sizes of adult women. This result implies that those sizes will be increased as the students grow up. But upper arm girth, upper arm girth/bust girth ratio, and thigh girth/bust girth ratio were bigger than those sizes of adult women. Waist girth, thigh girth, total head height/stature ratio, acromion width/stature ratio, and foot length/stature ratio were nearly similiar to those of adult women. 3. According to the result of t-test, waist breadth, spinailiaca anterior height/stature ratio, thigh girth/bust girth ratio, and thigh/hip girth ratio of the 15 year old group were significantly different from those of the 16 year old group at the level of 0.05. Bust girth, weight, foot breadth, posterior croth length, and cervical height/stature ratio of the 16 year old group were significantly different from those of the 17 year old group at the level of 0.01. Hip girth, upper arm girth, waist breadth/stature ratio, and neck base girth/bust girth ratio of the 16 year old group were significantly different from those of the 17 year old group at the level of 0.05.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.24 no.3
• /
• pp.335-344
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to set up sizing system for knit trainning wears. Sample size was 198 females and their age range was from 15 to 24 years old. The body types for sizing system for knit trainning wears were divided by height and drop values. The results were as follows. 1. The height could be divided into three groups and they covered 97.5%. The Short(152cm) covered 27.8%, the Regular(160cm) 51.0% and the Tall(168cm) 18.7%. 2. The Medium hip(drop value 6) and the Large hip(drop value 12)had the high coverage rate of 45.5% and 46%, and the Small hip(drop value 0) had the low coverage rate of 8.6%. 3. For sizing system for knit trainning wears, the intervals of bust girth and hip girth were 5cm and 4cm. In the same size of bust girth, the intervals of hip high girth and waist girth were 1cm, the intervals of back waist length and sleeve length were 2cm and the interval of slacks length was 4∼5cm according to three height groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.8
• /
• pp.1275-1286
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate how the shape of the lower body influences an individuals' ease in fitting skirts. Subjects in this study consisted of 188 adult females categorized into two groups(the first group were subjects 18∼33 years of age and the second group 34∼59 years of age), whose measurements were taken and then compared between the two groups. The subjects were also categorized into 5 different lower body types. The following are the results; (1) The comparative analysis of the ease from the two a9e groups showed a bigger value of waist girth in the young age group. And thereverse results were found when measuring hip firth. (2) The correlation analysis between the ease and the anthropometric data showed a weak statistical correlation in the older group, and showed no statistical correlation in the younger group. However, there was correlation between the ease and the body measurements as well as between the differences of waist girth and hip girth. (3) The most appropriate average ease of skirt in the young age group was 1.03 cm for waist and 5.71 cm for hip; the most appropriate average ease of skirt in the older age group was -0.76 cm at the waist and 4.10 cm at the hip. (4) Analysis of variance with a special emphasis on the ease of waist girth and hip girth according to the anthropometric data of the lower body revealed a statistically significant correlation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.699-714
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest a methodology to grasp the design method of industrial slacks pattern for women in their early twenties. The result of this study is as follows: 1. The result of the questionnaire showed that the design of rear center gradient was most important and the rear center gradient was designed by shifting waist line and hip line to a suitable degree.; below the waist by 4cm, the girth was measured and the ease of $0{\sim}1cm$ was applied to it, and the ease of hip girth was $3.2{\pm}1.2cm$, and rear center gradient was $2.2{\pm}1cm$, and front crotch extension was $2.8{\pm}0.5cm$, while rear crotch extension was $6.3{\pm}0.5cm$. 2. By comparing rear center gradient which was selected as an important design item with total crotch length and hip girth, I selected industrial pattern and educational pattern, and evaluated them on human bodies. In the result of ANOVA analysis, there were meaningful differences in 8 items: the ease of front waist girth, the ease of front abdomen, the ease of front hip girth, rumples in the side lines, the location of rear waist line, etc. 3. The design method of slacks pattern suitable for women in their early twenties was suggested as follows: the location of waist girth is below waist by $2.5{\sim}3cm$; the ease of waist girth is $0{\sim}1cm$; the ease of hip girth is $2{\sim}3cm$; total crotch length is body size - 5cm; rear center gradient is $2.5{\pm}0.5cm$; rear crotch extension is $7{\pm}0.5cm$; front crotch extension is 3cm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.852-862
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.