• 보존과학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.54-59
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• 1998

경기도 박물관에서 소장하고 있는 상복의 용도를 의복의 형태와 FT-IR 분광법에 의한 비섬유질 추출물의 분석으로 조사하였으며, 상복에 사용된 섬유의 감별을 위해서 현미경법, 용해법, 정색법을 적용하였다. 음이온계 세제인 LAS 계 세제를 사용하여 습식세척 후, 전자주사현미경으로 섬유표면에서의 세척 효과를 살펴보았다. 이상의 연구에서 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 의복의 형태와 비섬유질추출성분 분석 결과 수의가 아니라 상복임이 확인되었다. 비섬유질 추출성분들은 탄화수소계, 알킬 알콜, 알데히드로 수의에서 발견될 가능성이 높은 지방산과 질소화합물들이 전혀 검출되지 않았다. 섬유 감별 결과 섬유의 종류는 삼베였다. 세척후의 섬유 표면이 세척 이전의 섬유표면에 비해서 매끄럽고 이물질의 부착이 거의 없는 것으로 보아 세척 효과는 높았음을 알 수 있었다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제18권
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

이징 묘 출토 목질류에 대한 수종 분석 및 복식 중에서 대표 직물류에 대한 재질 분석을 실시하였다. 조사 결과, 목질류로 분류된 외관, 내관, 칠성판, 삽은 모두 소나무류(Pinus densiflora)로 식별되었다. 직물류 분석 결과, 삽 부착 직물과 명정, 오낭은 견직물이었다. 적삼은 평직 면직물이었으며 버선의 경우 겉감은 면직물, 안감은 마직물이었다. 견직물 중에서 오낭의 우족·좌족은 수자직(繻子織) 문단이고 나머지는 평직 견직물인 주(紬)로 확인되었다. 적외선 분석 결과, 삽에는 구름무늬가 전체적으로 그려져 있었으며, 명정과 오낭에는 묵서가 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제64권5호
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• pp.141-153
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• 2014

Buddhist articles from various periods in the Vairochana Buddha statues, which are currently housed in the Haeinsa Temple's Supreme Buddha Hall and Beopbojeon Hall. This research concentrates on the artifacts found inside the storage boxes, which was placed inside the Buddha statues in 1490. A total of 24 pieces of fabric articles found inside the Virochana Buddha in Beopbojeon and 213 pieces from the Supreme Buddha Hall were examined. The types of textiles are as follows: bast fiber, silk, cotton, and union cloth. Bast fiber consisted of ramie and hemp. For silk, tabby woven with plain weave, spun silk, and thin tabby were found. And twill damask made with twill, Sa and Ra with the leno weave, and satin damask made with the satin weave were also found. Also the two Jeogoris and three Jogakbos were found, the one Jeogori was made with Hwan. The Buddhist articles in the Vairochana Buddha of Haeinsa have been preserved well and its colors have remained virtually the same from the time of its original placement. Therefore these articles are very important in understanding the textile characteristics, weaving techniques, dying techniques as well as traditional colors.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.85-95
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study was to find a phase of clothing in Korean proverb. The results of the analysis of this research was as follows： In the case of headgear, was expose that symbolize handsomeness, conduct of life, personality that display charm and position which is not usage as only head protection. Upper wear was expressing aspect and person's similarity, and was symbolizing conduct of life by meaning of dress and its ornaments according to a person that dress displays that change. Trousers(bottom wear) was expose that it means aspect or conduct of life(a 4 case, 40％) through site. Overcoat showed that overcoat that is clothes that is symbolizing wearer's situation, aspect and wear most on face because is involved with behavior that is not right in clothes usage is used by standard that foretell personality. Underwear can know that expressed being involved with right behavior, nature by the basic clothes. I was able to know that I express an attitude of a life or a form through shoe, and the accessories won an minor order but that I have a large influence on a character or the appearance of a person. Silk fabrics expresses Position, and hemp cloth expressed by symbol that display ability. Also, silk fabrics had meaning that hint person's background. Dress and its ornaments that is used in proverb by these result can know that have function as symbolic symbol that display Person's nature or situation, aspect that is wearing clothes that is not function as only simple clothes.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제36권10호
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• pp.119-130
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• 1998

This is on the dance costume of ancient Greece. The present study classified the characteristics of Greek dance and dance costume according to the silhouette, quality of material, color and ornaments. Materials of the study are the pictures and figures presented in literatures, sculptures, crockeries, murals, coins. The dances of Greece can be classified into religious dance, educational dance, recreational dance, dramatic dance and various forms of dance on each dances were developed. Especially, it is the greatest character that Greeks gave dances educational value and created composit art including song, lines and dance. As dance costume, Himation, Chiton, Chlamys which Greeks generally wore were widely worn. Also, the beauty of dance costume was maximized by the changes of basic costumes and development of various ways of wearing. Especially, professional dancers wore costumes shorter than knee-length ones forming a A-line silhouette different from a cylindrical one. Thin cloth revealing body silhouette such as fiax hemp, linen, silk were used as materials of dance costumes. As for colors, white was mainly used, But orange, blue and green were used, too. They wore band, scarf, bonnet on the head and seldom used any ornaments except for fibula. They wore the same sandals which Greeks wore, Crepis, front-heeled shoes which is thought to be the origin of modern ballet shoes for the technique of toe in dance. As mentioned above, as the dance costume of Greece were mainly worn as the similar forms of the dance costume of Greeks, various forms of costumes were worn with the development of dance and bold ways of wearing and silhouette were developed unlike the costume of common people.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.219-231
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• 2009

본 연구는 대전에서 출토된 조선시대 초중기의 여산송씨가 출토복식을 보존처리함에 있어 출토복식의 세척처리 현황을 조사하고 본 출토복식의 세척과정을 보고하여 앞으로 출토복식의 세척방안에 대한 자료로 제공하고자 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 여산송씨 출토복식은 15세기의 남자복식과 16세기중후반의 남녀복식을 비교할 수 있는 좋은 자료가 되고 있다. 출토유물은 모두 184점이 출토되었으며 면, 견, 마, 교직물 등 다양한 직물이 있었다. 여산송씨 출토복식의 세척은 직물의 상태와 오염을 분석한 후 진공흡입에 의한 고형오염을 충분히 제거하고 습식세척과 건식세척방법을 시행하였으며 1, 2차로 진행되었다. 습식세척의 경우 음이온계 계면활성제(LAS)와 비이온계 계면활성제(Triton X-100)를 사용하였고 건식세척의 경우 n-hexane과 n-decane(4:6) 혼합용제 및 석유계 드라이클리닝용제를 사용하였다. 1차 세척 후 빠지지 않은 얼룩이 있는 면직물이나 마직물의 경우 표백처리를 실시하였으며 견직물 중 상태가 좋은 것은 유기용제에 의한 건식세척을 재실시하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.648-659
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• 2000

Through this study I would like to examine the meaning system of the symbolized codes related with real costume figures of the abstract concept of the style of the mourning ceremonial dress in Chosun Dynasty as a variable cause of communication through non-language method by the structural analysis of coding of the ceremonial dress style and the meaning system of the codes centering on the traditional book of funeral etiquette dealing with hueneral cereony in the period. To achieve this purpose, I have used the symbolic theory of constructive concept by F. de Saussure, cultural notation theory of Roland Barthes & Umberto Eco, and structural style of costumes by Myung-Sook Han. The result of the study is as follows. 1. As Chosun Dynasty was a society in which people considered courtesy so much important and practiced the basic Confucian ideas of the three bonds and five moral disciplines in human relations, the characteristic of funeral rites in Chosun Dynasty consists in expression of the thoughts of moral ethics & relative systems and systems of clan rules, etc which was a langue determining the symbols of mourning ceremony dress because the mourning ceremony dress in the period should have the feature of a langue. The mourning ceremonial dresses in the period had five grades of the consume and the grades were determined to be classified into five levels according to the clan system of the chief mourner with sang, ha bang. And the method of the association of the mourning ceremonial dress codes had the six principles of Chinchin, Jonjon, Myoungboon, Chulip, Changyu, and Jongbok. 2. Regarding the mourning ceremonial costumes in Korean society, the meaning of funeral ceremony was expressed by the signifier and materials of the mourning costumes in the society. During the process of the funeral, the intangible feeling of condolence was the expression of mourning and the tangible mourning ceremonial dress was the signal with the lamentation meaning. Especially, characters and patterns were removed from the mourning ceremonial dresses in spite of their function of symbols and the styles of costumes were emphasized. Especially the meaning of condolences was symbolized by attachment of some small pieces of cloth on the upper garments. Hemp was mainly emphasized to be the material of the costumes and some different meanings showed according to the quality of the material hemp. The mourning ceremonial dresses were distinguished from ordinary dresses, which were emphasized because they gad some symbolic meaning of the mourning. 3. Considering the association of the synthetic relations of the costumes from the viewpoint that the mourning ceremonial dresses would be classified according to a system, the symbolization of them were avaliable by sex according to how to combine them and there were no distinction between social classes in the society.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.321-328
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 전통직물 4종(견, 면, 모시, 삼베)을 선정하고, 각 직물의 원직물을 포함한 염색별 5종으로 구분하여 이산화황 가스($SO_2$) 농도에 따른 손상특성을 살펴보기 위해 가스 열화실험을 실시하였으며 각 농도와 손상특성간의 정량적인 상관성을 규명하고자 하였다. 이를 위해 전통직물 시편을 대상으로 가스부식시험기를 이용하여 $SO_2$ 0.01, 0.12, 1, 10, 100, 1000, 5000ppm의 농도로 24시간 노출 실험을 하였으며 노출 전 후의 광학적, 물리적, 화학적 손상도를 평가하였다. 이 결과, 가스 농도의 증가에 따른 전통직물의 색차 증가와 변퇴색 등급 저하 등 광학적 변화를 확인한 반면 물리적 변화는 뚜렷하지 않음을 알 수 있었다. 또한 가스 농도증가에 따른 직물시편 내 잔류 황산이온 농도의 증가 및 pH 감소에 의한 직물 재질의 산성화를 통해 화학적 손상을 확인하였다. 이 같은 손상도 변화를 종합한 결과 이산화황 가스에 의한 전통직물의 손상농도는 1ppm/day임을 도출하였다.