• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제34권
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• pp.80-101
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• 2001

This article is concentrated on the organization for labor exchange in producing hemp cloth at Geumso-ri, Imha-myoun, Andong city. The organization is called "Sam-dool-ge", and it is different from the organization for labor exchange in producing rice because it is managed by women mostly. ln harvesting hemp, same amount of labor and expenses are invested. Especially, labor is supplied in equal condition. In spinning hemp cloth, the work is shared on the basis of same tech level. In threading the warp and fastening hemp cloth. the work conducted collaborately under the best engineer's direction. "Sam-dool-ge", a gil-sam labor exchange, also presents cultural creativity which produces and inherits the folkloric tradition, and also has the quality as a rite of passage. Nowadays, producing hem cloth is for pursuiting of profits than for making clothes as it used to be. This tradition will be lasted at least for a while because some young generations are beginning to participate in and old generation is teaching them good.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.211-219
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to trace and identify termilogies recorded im kei lim yu sa. ma(麻), kyun(絹), po(布), je(苧), and je-po(苧布) were included in this study. For the analysis of this research comparative analytical methods was employed. Some significant findings and results of this study can be summarized as follows : 1. Text : hemp is called san(麻曰三). The word san of Koryo was derived from Indian sann, san, sana, sunn, 2. Text : Kyun is called jyi or kib(絹曰及). The word jyi(及) of Koryo was from jyi or kib() of Silla. 3. Text : Hemp cloth is called bey(bei), pey(pei), bai(布曰背). Be (베) has two meanings of hemp cloth and cloth in Korean. In the text it is interpreted as hemp cloth. 4. Text : Ramie or China grass is called mar, maw, mao, mu (毛). (苧曰毛). It is considered that the word mau(mo in Korean) (毛) in text is correct and word mau(毛) meaning China grass of Koryho is derived from mah or mak that is an old Egyptian name for flax or linen. The word mau(mo) (毛) of Koryo seems to be a transliteration of mah(or mak) in Korean or a variety of it. 5. Raime cloth or China grass cloth is clalled mau shy (苧布曰毛施). Silmar words to mau shy(毛施) of Koryo were found in Chinese, Manchurian and japanese as well as in Ancient Hebrew.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.497-510
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• 2004

This research shows problems of modem Mourning Garments used in Gwangju area compared to traditional ones. Researches are as fellowed; First, items of mourning garments have been not used by degrees. Male has worn Jung-Dan and Du-ru-mak-i as Pyo-Eui of male mourning garments. Second, mourning garments have been simplified and modified. These simplification in shape and uniformity in size are only far Mass production and convenient manufacture. Third, modem mourning garments are made of 6-su (thin) Hemp cloth. In fact this material has no hemp and is just made of cotton and chemical textiles. Even though it is not made of hemp, it has been sold with the name of Hemp Cloth. Materials should be clearly listed. Forth, traditional mourning garments are manufactured through needlework while modern ones through mass production. Now the former is expensive rather than the latter. So Mass produced garments would be preferred to traditional made ones.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.190-197
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• 2024

With increasing global interest in environmentally friendly materials and the consequent rise in demand, there is a growing need for alternatives to synthetic fibers, which can cause skin diseases and other side effects. The fashion industry is emphasizing material sustainability owing to concerns about increasing carbon emissions. Moreover, consumers express a strong desire for ecofriendly and sustainable materials. Therefore, clothing brand companies are developing eco-friendly products to enhance their corporate image. Hemp fibers are recognized for their functionality and are utilized as crucial materials in the development of eco-friendly products by global fashion companies. In this study, we produced socks that effectively improve foot health using hemp stem bark extract fibers and demonstrated the positive efficacy of natural fibers through functional and wearability evaluations. Hemp stem bark extract fibers showed 99.9% antimicrobial effectiveness against bacteria responsible for sweat-induced bacterial proliferation and odor, when blended with lyocell fibers and woven into fabric to manufacture socks. Wearability evaluations of these terry cloth socks confirmed a reduction in foot odor and fatigue among the participants with a consumer satisfaction of 4.63/5. These findings confirm the effectiveness and positive impact of the natural antimicrobial properties of hemp fibers and terry cloth structure in improving foot health.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.729-742
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• 2005

This paper studied the ban on 'Po[포]', including hemp and ramie, on the basis of Joseon Wangcho Silok (the True Record of Joseon Dynasty). Po is the important point which can help to understand the people's life related with clothing. This paper showed that in the early years of the Joseon Dynasty, the state had forced kinds of bans on some fabrics many times. Among the bans of the fabrics-making the main part was the bans on Po, along with rice, used as money in those days. The state had on Po enacted on the policy to intend to promote paper money circulation more widely. However, people didn't want to use paper money. The reason why cloth could be practical and functional as a kind of currency was that people could make clothes with it at any time while they used it as money. People avoided using paper money that could not be used in that way, and so did public officials. At that time, Po that was generally used as money was the hemp of five warp threads. The measurement of the hemp in 7chi[촌; a Korean inch] by 35chok[척] and 32cm by 16m by modern metric. It also showed that it has been thought that the blended fabrics are the fabrics that were made of raw silk-threads and cotton threads as warp and weft respectively. However, the fact that there is a record of 'Jeo Ma Gyo Jik Po[저마교직포의]'(blended fabrics and clothes made of ramie and hemp) and there appear the new proofs of the fieldwork investigation shows that the concept of blended fabrics might be various or changeable as time passed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.598-607
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• 2008

Bast fibers were applied for various usages from fabrics to household care products long time ago. In this study, we investigated the physical characteristrus of water retted & chemically rotted fibers of Yucca, New Zealand hemp, Corn, Kuzu vine, Indian mallow, and Mulberry paper that have been harvested by domestic cultivation. Water retting is more effective than chemical rotting for six kinds of plant fibers. When all fibers were rotted chemically with 1% sodium hydroxide, only Kuzu vine and Indian mallow were retted. Indian mallow, Yucca, New Zealand hemp, and Com fibers have higher tensile strength than any other fibers. The crystallinity of Kuzu vine, Indian mallow, Yucca, New Zealand hemp, and Corn was as low as 60% but Yucca, New Zealand hemp were flexible. Yucca had fewer lumina whereas New Zealand hemp more lumina in cross sectional shape. Especially com fibers have a structure like sponge, and Indian mallow had a net shape. The longitudinal section of New Zealand hemp showed smooth and long shape. Mulberry paper was proved to be short and thin, which is quite appropriate for making paper. In this study, we found that plant fibers for living material could be used for cloth materials.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.61-70
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• 1994

the purpose of study is to grasp the actual state of the textiles of Kojosun, Booyeo and Kogooryeo, by examining and studying about the excavated article of the textile of the Booyeo Age which was being gamered in the Research Institute of Study of antiquities of Civilization of gilimsung without being analyzed and examined after being excavated at September in 1990 and 1993, the textile of Kojosun Age wich was excavated and examined at East and North Gilimsung in China and the textile excavated and examined at the Kogooryeo grave at jiban China. 1. The kinds of textiles of Booye Age are warp kum plin weave silk plain weave bang gong Sa, and drawn and dyed textile, It is deemed that the real state of keum, Jeung and Hwi in the old literature of Sam guk Ji was grasped. 2. It emerges that more detailed wool than the wool fabric of China area of the same age was manufactured as the textile of Kojosun Age. hemp cloth corresponds to 12 Seung, in converting into fabric width of 50cm. 3. Keum was examined and reported as the textile of Kogooryeo Age and the real state of Woonkeum of Kogooryeo Age was grasped through "Wang ja moon keum" of Keumjang of mural of South and North I room of the grave that the same keum was excavated. The real state of dyed textile of hemp was grasped as the red hemp cloth was examined. Moreover the real state of development of advanced technique to weave with machine appeared by the grasp of inclination of loom with reed of Kogooryeo.Kogooryeo.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.89-94
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• 1977

This is a study of the history and the changes of methods of making shroud from Koryo up to present. Korea is Known as a country of East with its courtious people, and naturally the people observed the proprieties, especially on the funeral, in performing religious services and worshiping of the ancestors. Since Koryo and Yi Dynasty, because of the complexcity of the formalities under the confucianism, the shroud also became very complex. The process of making shroud was various according to the classes and economical circumstances. They made shroud of fine textured hemp cloth or silk, selecting one of 'good days' in leap year. As they believed the shroud should be rotten as soon as possible, fine textured hemp cloth was common as for the material. The color of the shroud was either plain or colored as the casual wears. In sewing shroud, the thread shouldn't be knotted nor connected in each seam and the strips should not be even numbered. These methods of making shroud have been changed variously and symplified according to the economical circumstances up to now.