• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.543-554
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to find whether hemline cycles exist and whether hemlines show greater within-year variability over time. Utilizing US Vogue data from 1950 to 2013 on hemline length of women's daywear, total 2102 day-dresses or skirts on full fashion pictures were analyzed. The skirt length was divided by the total length of figure in the picture which was measured from shoulder to ankle. Aggregated yearly means smoothed by means of three-point moving averages were used to provide a better indication of the long-term direction of movement of the hemline. Within-year hemline variability was smoothed by the way of three-point moving average as well. The data showed five cycles on hemline change processes. The first cycle took 21 years from 1950 to 1971, which was the longest period and had the biggest hemline changes. The second cycle was the shortest from 1971 to 1977, in which hemline moved between below-knee length and midcalf. The hemline in the third cycle moved between midcalf and miniskirt. The third cycle took 16 years from 1977 to 1993. The forth was a short cycle from 1998 to 2001, and hemlines moved moderately between below-knee length and above-knee length. The fifth cycle has been on going since 2001, and the hemline has been getting longer after 2007. The within-year variability of hemlines was bigger in 1980s than previous years and was steadily increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.755-764
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• 2015

This study investigates if the relationships between hemline and macro-economic factors (rGDP, recession, and unemployment) are still applicable as well as analyzes time lags that reflect economic factors on the hemline index using U.S. data. The hemline theory and fashion cyclical theory were applied to propose the relationships studied. The data for the hemline measurements of women's day-wear were obtained from US Vogue spring and fall editions from 1950 to 2014. Data were standardized by dividing the length from shoulder to hemline by the length from the shoulder to ankle. I aggregated 2260 samples and hemline data to create a yearly average. This study used OLS of Stata 13 program to explore the relationship between macro-economic factors and hemline. The main findings were the recession and unemployment influenced hemline length for four years in a positive direction. Furthermore, the effects of previous recession and unemployment on the current hemline were very close to the significant level respectively. This finding supports the hemline theory in that a recessionary economy is related to longer hemlines and hemlines become shorter in flourishing economic periods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.584-597
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• 2014

This study verified the 'Hemline Index' theory by George (1926) and established a new fashion theory frame to forecast future fashion cycles of skirts by analyzing the past fashion cycle of skirts through a diachronic method. Skirt pictures from 1980-2013 (the post-industrialized period of Korea) were analyzed and representative skirt styles, the fashion cycle of skirts and relation between skirt style, length, width and stock index were identified. A total of 1496 pictures in fashion magazine published over 34 years were selected and analyzed using PASW 18.0. The results were: For 34 years, representative skirts styles were mini skirt, midi skirt and long skirt. Fashion trend cycles of skirt length decreased for 10 years and the fashion cycle showed a trend to shorten. Skirt length & stock index related negatively and skirt length & skirt width related positively. All relations revealed significant results. Finally, the 'Hemline Index' theory of George (1926) was verified. Fashion marketers can develop successful and suitable products using a fashion cycle theory based on the results of this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1132-1141
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• 2004

The purpose of this research was to ascertain the optimum rear slit length of tight skirts in terms of comfort and appearance. The typical measurements of tight skirts on current market were recorded and a questionnaire survey of women in their twenties was conducted in order to find out the current conditions of the skirts and specific complaints about motion restrictions. Just over half the respondents (50.4%) reported that they had experienced damage to the slit usually when they were stepping on a bus and also walking and running. The clothing test showed that the slit length increased as the motion went from "walking" to "going up stairs", and to "stepping on a bus" In addition the slit length significantly decreased as the hem circumference of skirt became wider. On the basis of those results, a wearing test, evaluating sensual comfort and appearance, was also conducted and the results showed that the slit length of 385mm was most prefered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.819-830
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• 2010

This study proposes medical gowns for interns and residents that address the functions of utility and activity. Based on the questionnaires, the prototype focused on the pockets for practical use and movement adaptability. Functional pockets were made by increasing pocket sizes and separating pockets with sections according to use. An inside pocket and a loop for an identification tag was placed on the chest pocket and the side seam pocket were oblique lined. To resolve horizontal stress on the back of the gown,6 cm action pleats were added at both ends of the bladebone. The elbow area was tucked up to improve the workplace activities. To reduce hamper on the gown hemline, slits were added along the gown side seam. The front button was changed into an inside button closure. The cuffs, belt, and back waist belt were removed due to occupational cases of inconvenience. The length of the sleeves was adjusted with belts to improve the movement of the arms. In accordance with design preference, the gown was designed to be knee-length with wrist length sleeves. Blue colored (2.5PB 3/12: by Munsell) material was inserted to reduce the contamination on the neck, cuffs, front closure, and hemline area. The planning cloth of the experimental gown was designed to improve activity function, cleaning, and comfort from light materials. The field test (with 30 doctors at university hospitals and the objective assessment with 9 subject groups)were done by the valuation between the existing gown and the prototype. The results showed that the prototype had to be modified by decreasing the pocket size, expanding the usage of the penholder, and simplify front pockets in order to maintain unity. The loop for the identification tag, inside pocket, and the blue colored material had to be removed. The front closure of the gown had to return to its original state.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.87-96
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyse the characteristics of style, color and items of street fashion in Harbin. This kind of study will contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for the strategic establishments of design and marketing in Korean brand launching into China. The results of this study are as follows. The preferred fashion style is casual one, rather than formal one. The order of preference in casual wear is character, jean and sports casual. In the view of color, preference in top color is, white, black, brown and pink. In the bottom, it is blue, white, black and brown. In one-piece, it is white, blue and brown. Throughout all items, the most frequently founded color is white, which might be ascribed to the seasonal influence of summer. The Chinese specific preference of color could not be observed. In aspect of items, the one-piece takes the proportions of more than half of the all the items. The typical details of one-piece dress are irregular hemline and asymmetrical line. While knee length takes proportion of 70%, in item of skirt, the full length is 46.8% in frequency for pants. In one-piece, knee length is 80% amounted as first rank, followed by midi and mini.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.73-88
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• 1999

To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt length-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation and the shape of hemlines evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced by these factors this study found the aesthetical gathering amount and analyzed the shape of hemlines. The following are the results of this research. 1. In the same fabric and skirt length to estimate a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt the increased amount of the node number of cotton fabric was widest and wool fabric was most stable And when the gathering amounts of each fabric were higher than 1.5 times the node indexes were no difference. According as a skirt length was longer the node indexes assumed a similar aspects but according as the skirt length was shorten an the gathering amount was smaller the node shapes were level and broad. And according to being increased a gathering amount the width of right and left of gathered skirt was generally wider. 2. In the same gathering amount and skirt length in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt when the skirt length was 40cm in cotton polyester wool fabrics the node indexes were similar at up to 1.5 times of gathering amount and especially it became very bigger at 0.5 times and according as the gathering amount was increased node index became gradually smaller. The width of right and left of the skirt hemlines of wool fabric was more smaller than polyester and cotton fabrics so it is happen to hang down. 3. In the same gathering amount and fabric in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape as a variation of a skirt length when the gathering amount of cotton and polyester was from up to 1.5 times and wood fabric was from up to 1.0 times according as skirt length was longer node index in the same gathering amount was decreased. And in case as it was 0.5 times the node indexes of the 40cm and 60cm skirt length were bigger than other factors. In the same gathering amount the width of right and left of the skirt hemlines was smaller at 60cm skirt length and polyester fabric was smaller at 80cm skirt length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.7
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• pp.1173-1183
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• 1997

In order to flatter the figures of average middle aged women by determining harmonious proportions for their costume forms, this study evaluates effects of varying design details of jackets(coats) with blouses and slacks using a ranking test and paired comparisons test. The result from clothing design C-2 which has the best design effect were as follows; 1. In order to look taller, the jacket(coats) is divided vertical long line and it has the emphasis point close to the face. 2. In order to make shoulder width look wider, armhole seam line attached 1-2 cm from the shoulder point. 3. In order to make chest width look slimmer, division was made up of a tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 4. In order to make waist circumference look slimmer, the jacket has more fitted waist line than loosed it and tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 5. In the case of the division of upper and lower garments, when the division was closer to the golden section, i.e., when the jacket hemline is hipline and slacks length is the heel excluded length of shoe heels, the overall appearance was better. 6. The V-neckline looked better, when it was cut along a long acute angle to the waist line. Because of dividing along above factors 1-6 i.e., clothing design C-2 was overall harmonious. Appropriate division of costume forms made for an aesthetic composition, which flattered the body types of middle aged women and presented harmonious, beautiful costume design effects. It made the women look taller, slim and balanced, and highlighted middle aged women's sense of beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.781-792
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• 2015

This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.