• Title/Summary/Keyword: handicraft decorative beauty

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Expressive Characteristics of Fringe in Modern Fashion (현대패션에 나타난 술 장식의 표현특성)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.6
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    • pp.856-865
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    • 2011
  • This paper intends to examine how Fringe, which is in an inseparable relationship with modern fashion, has been changed and what characteristics it is expressed to have in fashion on the basis of its formative property expressed in modern fashion. In order to empirically analyze Fringe, this paper analyzed a total of 346 Fringe of every type that were generally found in the worldis four biggest collections, from 2006S/S to 2011S/S. This paper found some methods Fringe is made, which are: using a snagged fabric or knit as it is; intentionally snagging or tearing a fabric to make the effect of being snagged; knotting the tail or the edge of clothes, and then, macram$\grave{E}$; and cutting leather or suede, which canit be snagged easily, and making Fringe strands. Fringe strands which are made in the above ways are made into a band and then, attached, or Fringe strands, a feathers, a comb, or beads are attached one by one. Or a tassel is independently or consecutively applied to clothes or ornaments, which are expressed in the form of fringes. Threads, strings, leather, suede, metals, plastics, raffia, horsehair, paper, beads, pearls, crystals, or felt were used for rich texture or unique visual effects. Colors of various brightness and chromas were used in consideration of materials. Through the effects of sameness, similarity, contrast, harmony and gradation with colors of clothes, emphasis or unified harmony was expressed. The expressive characteristics of Fringe, which were found in the modern fashion through those formative characteristics, were organic rhythmical beauty, handicraft decorative beauty, and folksy natural beauty.

Study of the Characteristics of Dot Pattern Designs in Modern Fashion (현대패션에 나타난 도트문양의 표면유형과 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.4
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    • pp.41-53
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    • 2009
  • This study analyzed expression types of dot patterns and derived out inherent characteristics to provide fundamental resources for advancement of high value added creative designs. As a result of the study, Firstly, the circular motive was used to form silhouettes or as a symbol of a decoration. Secondly, a simple form and color dot pattern was used to create one side, or a circular shaped accessory was used to be recognized as a construction line or a decoration line. Thirdly, textile printing is mainly used but handicraft and decorative images were used to add vitality through piece technique, embroidery, collage, cut-out, patch work, etc. Fourthly, different circular motives were integrated, partitioned and duplicated for abstract geometrical images. Fifthly, variations were added by mixing different dot patterns that are arranged regularly and irregularly in different sizes and gaps creating compounded designs with handicraft touches, different angles or on top of each other. Sixthly, hybrid images were created with rearrangement of dot patterns and by adding floral shapes, stripes or other abstract and geometrical shapes. Such various and creative attempts construct new formative beauty in fashion design and I believe that it can establish the development of unique images that satisfies the taste of today's consumers.

Study on the Textile Design using Buttons on Western clothing in the 18th·19th Centuries (18·19세기 서양 복식의 단추를 활용한 텍스타일 디자인 연구)

  • Lee, Eui-Jung;Kang, Kyung-Ae
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.97-115
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    • 2022
  • The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

New Trends in the Production of One Hundred Fans Paintings in the Late Joseon Period: The One Hundred Fans Painting in the Museum am Rothenbaum Kulturen und Künste der Welt in Germany and Its Original Drawings at the National Museum of Korea (조선말기 백선도(百扇圖)의 새로운 제작경향 - 독일 로텐바움세계문화예술박물관 소장 <백선도(百扇圖)>와 국립중앙박물관 소장 <백선도(百扇圖) 초본(草本)>을 중심으로 -)

  • Kwon, Hyeeun
    • MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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    • v.96
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    • pp.239-260
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    • 2019
  • This paper examines the circulation and dissemination of painting during and after the nineteenth century through a case study on the One Hundred Fans paintings produced as decorative folding screens at the time. One Hundred Fans paintings refer to depictions of layers of fans in various shapes on which pictures of diverse themes are drawn. Fans and paintings on fans were depicted on paintings before the nineteenth century. However, it was in the nineteenth century that they began to be applied as subject matter for decorative paintings. Reflecting the trend of enjoying extravagant hobbies, fans and paintings on fans were mainly produced as folding screens. The folding screen of One Hundred Fans from the collection of the Museum am Rothenbaum Kulturen und Künste der Welt (hereafter Rothenbaum Museum) in Germany was first introduced to Korean in the exhibition The City in Art, Art in the City held at the National Museum of Korea in 2016. Each panel in this six-panel folding screen features more than five different fans painted with diverse topics. This folding screen is of particular significance since the National Museum of Korea holds the original drawings. In the nineteenth century, calligraphy and painting that had formerly been enjoyed by Joseon royal family members and the nobility in private spaces began to spread among common people and was distributed through markets. In accordance with the trend of adorning households, colorful decorative paintings were preferred, leading to the popularization of the production of One Hundred Fans folding screens with pictures in different shapes and themes. A majority of the Korean collection in the Rothenbaum Museum belonged to Heinrich Constantin Eduard Meyer(1841~1926), a German businessman who served as the Joseon consul general in Germany. From the late 1890s until 1905, Meyer traveled back and forth between Joseon and Germany and collected a wide range of Korean artifacts. After returning to Germany, he sequentially donated his collections, including One Hundred Fans, to the Rothenbaum Museum. Folding screens like One Hundred Fans with their fresh and decorative beauty may have attracted the attention of foreigners living in Joseon. The One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum is an intriguing work in that during its treatment, a piece of paper with the inscription of the place name "Donghyeon" was found pasted upside down on the back of the second panel. Donghyeon was situated in between Euljiro 1-ga and Euljiro 2-ga in present-day Seoul. During the Joseon Dynasty, a domestic handicraft industry boomed in the area based on licensed shops and government offices, including the Dohwaseo (Royal Bureau of Painting), Hyeminseo (Royal Bureau of Public Dispensary), and Jangagwon (Royal Bureau of Music). In fact, in the early 1900s, shops selling calligraphy and painting existed in Donghyeon. Thus, it is very likely that the shops where Meyer purchased his collection of calligraphy and painting were located in Donghyeon. The six-panel folding screen One Hundred Fans in the collection of the Rothenbaum Museum is thought to have acquired its present form during a process of restoring Korean artifacts works in the 1980s. The original drawings of One Hundred Fans currently housed in the National Museum of Korea was acquired by the National Folk Museum of Korea between 1945 and 1950. Among the seven drawings of the painting, six indicate the order of their panels in the margins, which relates that the painting was originally an eight-panel folding screen. Each drawing shows more than five different fans. The details of these fans, including small decorations and patterns on the ribs, are realistically depicted. The names of the colors to be applied, including 'red ocher', 'red', 'ink', and 'blue', are written on most of the fans, while some are left empty or 'oil' is indicated on them. Ten fans have sketches of flowers, plants, and insects or historical figures. A comparison between these drawings and the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum has revealed that their size and proportion are identical. This shows that the Rothenbaum Museum painting follows the directions set forth in the original drawings. The fans on the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum are painted with images on diverse themes, including landscapes, narrative figures, birds and flowers, birds and animals, plants and insects, and fish and crabs. In particular, flowers and butterflies and fish and crabs were popular themes favored by nineteenth century Joseon painters. It is noteworthy that the folding screen One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum includes several scenes recalling the typical painting style of Kim Hong-do, unlike other folding screens of One Hundred Fans or Various Paintings and Calligraphy. As a case in point, the theme of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" is depicted in the Rothenbaum folding screen even though it is not commonly included in folding screens of One Hundred Fans or One Hundred Paintings due to spatial limitations. The scene of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" in the Rothenbaum folding screen bears a resemblance to Kim Hong-do's folding screen of Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden at the National Museum of Korea in terms of its composition and style. Moreover, a few scenes on the Rothenbaum folding screen are similar to examples in the Painting Album of Byeongjin Year produced by Kim Hong-do in 1796. The painter who drew the fan paintings on the Rothenbaum folding screen is presumed to have been influenced by Kim Hong-do since the fan paintings of a landscape similar to Sainsam Rock, an Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden, and a Pair of Pheasants are all reminiscent of Kim's style. These paintings in the style of Kim Hong-do are reproduced on the fans left empty in the original drawings. The figure who produced both the original drawings and fan paintings appears to have been a professional painter influenced by Kim Hong-do. He might have appreciated Kim's Painting Album of Byeongjin Year or created duplicates of Painting Album of Byeongjin Year for circulation in the art market. We have so far identified about ten folding screens remaining with the One Hundred Fans. The composition of these folding screens are similar each other except for a slight difference in the number and proportion of the fans or reversed left and right sides of the fans. Such uniform composition can be also found in the paintings of scholar's accoutrements in the nineteenth century. This suggests that the increasing demand for calligraphy and painting in the nineteenth century led to the application of manuals for the mass production of decorative paintings. As the demand for colorful decorative folding screens with intricate designs increased from the nineteenth century, original drawings began to be used as models for producing various paintings. These were fully utilized when making large-scale folding screens with images such as Guo Ziyi's Enjoyment-of-Life Banquet, Banquet of the Queen Mother of the West, One Hundred Children, and the Sun, Cranes and Heavenly Peaches, all of which entailed complicated patterns. In fact, several designs repeatedly emerge in the extant folding screens, suggesting the use of original drawings as models. A tendency toward using original drawings as models for producing folding screens in large quantities in accordance with market demand is reflected in the production of the folding screens of One Hundred Fans filled with fans in different shapes and fan paintings on diverse themes. In the case of the folding screens of One Hundred Paintings, bordering frames are drawn first and then various paintings are executed inside the frames. In folding screens of One Hundred Fans, however, fans in diverse forms were drawn first. Accordingly, it must have been difficult to produce them in bulk. Existing examples are relatively fewer than other folding screens. As discussed above, the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum and its original drawings at the National Museum of Korea aptly demonstrate the late Joseon painting trend of embracing and employing new painting styles. Further in-depth research into the Rothenbaum painting is required in that it is a rare example exhibiting the influence of Kim Hong-do compared to other paintings on the theme of One Hundred Fans whose composition and painting style are more similar to those found in the work of Bak Gi-jun.