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A Study on Basic Costume Appearing in Genre Paintings from the Late 17th Century to the Early 18th Century : focused upon Works of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho (17C말~18C초 풍속화에 나타나는 복식에 관한 연구 - 윤두서, 조영석 작품 중심으로 -)

  • 최은주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.915-929
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    • 2000
  • As a result of research, the character of the general dress-costumes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century in Genre Paintings of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho is as follows. Firstly young women wore braided hair at the back of head and married women wore hair in the style of Unjeun-mori with Gache. The length of Jeogori (Korean traditional jacket) covered waistor shortened to waist length. The width of Jeongori was suitable, because side-seam line was straight or oblique as it comes into inner line. The width of Git was enough and Mokpan-git (shape of board) and Kal-kit (shape of knife) appeared, and sometimes used other color fabric. Sleeve was narrow and ostly folded up. Chima (Korean traditional skirt) used darker color fabric than Jeogori and the width of Chima was narrow and its length was short. Sokbaji (Korean traditional underpants) shown below were narrow and its end narrower. They were barefoot or they wore Hye (Korean traditional shoes) after putting on Beoseon (Korean traditional socks). Secondly general man's hair tie a topknot (sangtu) and put on headdres, 'Bang-lip', 'Mang-geon', hairband, 'Tang-geon' on head. The length of Jeogori became shorter from the line which covered hip to the line which covered waist. The width of Jeogori was suitable and sometimes it had a slit of side-seam line. The width of Git (neckand) was wide and the length of Git was long. 'Kal-git'appeared and it used other color fabric. The shape of sleeve was straight and narrow. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their slack that look like 'Jam-bang-i'and the width of slacks was not suitable, and it was narrow. Baji (Korean traditional pants) were with or without knot, worn 'Hangjeon'(ankle band). They were barefoot and wore 'Hye'or 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Thirdly a person of high birth or a low-ranked official put 'Yu-geon', 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-du', 'Bok-geon', 'Whi-hang'on their head on a topknot. They wore 'Po (Shim-ui, Jick-ryeong'Jung-chi-mak, Do-po, etc)'on Baji and Jeogori. 'Po'was long and wide, it knot with 'Se-jo-dae'(string belt) or 'Po-baek-dae'(band belt). It had a slit of sideline and 'Mu'which had or had not or which were hard to confirm. The shape of sleeve was straight or very wide and its length was long. The width of Baji was wide and knotted with 'Hangjeon'and wore'Beoseon'and 'Hye'. Fourthly child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line and its width was wide. It had a 'Jeogori'which had s slit of sideline. The shape of sleeve was 'Tong-su'(straight), and the length of sleeve was diverse. They put 'Baeja'on 'Jeogori'. The width of Baji was not wide. They wore them straight without or with knot, 'Hangjeon'. They were barefoot or put on 'Jipsin'.

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A Study on Korean Man's Head Ornaments in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 남자(男子)의 수식(首飾) 연구(I))

  • Chang, Sook-Whan
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.99-116
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    • 2008
  • This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.

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A Study of Costumes of the 18th Century, Appearing in Genre Paintings from the King Young-Cho Period to the King Jung-Cho Period: Focused upon the Works of Focused upon the Works of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang (영ㆍ정조 시대의 속화에 나타난 18C 복식에 관한 연구 -오명현, 윤용, 이인상, 강희언, 작품을 중심으로-)

  • 최은주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.5
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    • pp.859-879
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    • 2004
  • As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

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A Study on Beauty Action of the Growing Generation (중.고등학교 여자 청소년의 뷰티행동에 관한 연구)

  • Seo, Hyun-Jin;Choi, In-Ryu
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.514-525
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    • 2010
  • In the rapidly changed 21st century when the flow speed of information is so fast and the quantity of information is too much increasing, personal appearance and characteristic image-formation is highly evaluated. Nowadays personal appearance is very essential to competition and may be considered the non-linguistic expression of self-image. The beauty action of the youth is shown to follow the object which youth want to rely on or long for and it is affected by the influence of the sociocultural elements. The purpose of this study is to identify the corelation between appearance and beauty action according to the sociocultural elements of the juveniles concerning appearance and to make an inquiry into how they pursue beauty in the restrictive bound compared with the adults. As their restrictive beauty action, the practical reflection percentage of hair-style, management of face, hand and nail control will be investigated and analyzed. Furthermore this basic material of this survey was used for the development of beauty article, cosmetics and education program. With the findings of the beauty articles in which the growing generation have a deep interest, this study provided the basic materials to the customer analysis and also the reference materials to the beauty marketing.

Experience of Alopecia in Adults: A Grounded Theory Approach (성인의 탈모경험: 근거 이론적 접근)

  • Lee, Su Jung;Kim, Ae-Kyung
    • Journal of Korean Academy of Fundamentals of Nursing
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    • v.25 no.3
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    • pp.185-196
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    • 2018
  • Purpose: The purpose of this study was to investigate the alopecia experience in adults and to explain the process of their experiences. Methods: Using a grounded theory methodology, 18 interviews were performed with fourteen men and four women, 34~57 years of age, suffering from alopecia. Data were analyzed using the constant comparative analysis method. Results: The core category emerged as "inescapable fetters". adults with alopecia engaged in three stages: embarrassment, seeking solution, and acceptance phase. Causal conditions were a vicious cycle of stress, biological factors and poor life style. Contextual conditions were recognition of irreversibleness, negative social awareness, and marriage. The central phenomenon of the adaptation process among the adults with alopecia was withdrawn life due to negative body image. Action/Interaction strategies included rely on medical treatment, efforts to take good care of hair, research for information treatment, efforts to cover up hair loss, and mind control. Intervening conditions were time cost, economic cost, support of surrounding people. Consequences was burden of unfinished lifetime homework. Conclusion: When caring for these adults, it is important to identify needs, allow patients to express what they want at that moment and support them in maintaining a daily life.

Ambivalence Expressed in Contemporary Fashion (현대복식에 나타난 양면감정)

  • 김인숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50
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    • pp.97-118
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    • 2000
  • The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

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Oxygen Toxicity of Superoxide Dismutase-Deficient Saccharomyces cerevisiae by Paraquat (Paraquat에 의해 유도된 Superoxide Dismutase 결핍 효모의 산소 독성)

  • 김지면;남두현용철순허근
    • KSBB Journal
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    • v.10 no.5
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    • pp.561-567
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    • 1995
  • Using superoxide dismutase (SOD)-deficient mutants of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, the oxygen toxicity induced by paraquat was studied. In aerobic culture condition, yeasts lacking MnSOD (milochondrial SOD) showed more significant growth retardation than CuZnSOD (cytoplasmic SOD)-deficient yeasts. However, not so big differences in growth pattern of those mutants compared with wild type were observed under anaerobic condition. When exposed to paraquat, the growth of yeasts lacking CuZnSOD was severely affected by higher than 0.01mM of paraquat in culture medium. By the analysis of several cellular components ivolved in free radical generating and scavenging system, it was found that, under aerobic condition, the content of lipid peroxides in cell membrane as well as cellular activity of glutathion peroxidase of CuZnSOD-deficient mutants was increased in the presence of paraquat, although significant decrease of catalase activity was observed in those stratns. In MnSOD-deficient yeast, however, increment in cellular activity of glutathion peroxldase and catalase by paraquat was observed without any deterioration of membrane lipid. It implies that the lack of mitochondrial SOD could be compensated by both of glutathion peroxldase and catalase, but that only glutathion peroxidase might act for CuZnSOD in cytoplasm. In contrast, all of SOD-deficient mutants showed a significant decrease in catalase activity, but slight increase in the activities of glutathion peroxidase, when cultivated anaerobically in the medium containing paraquat. Nevertheless, any significant changes of lipid peroxides in cell membranes were not observed during anaerobic cultivation of SOD-deficient mutants. It suggests that a little amount of free radicals generated by paraquat under anaerobic condition could be sufficiently overcome by glutathion peroxidase but not by catalase.

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Effect of Fashion Coordination Cues on Liking of the Male Wearers

  • Ryu, Ji-Won;Kim, Jae-Sook
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.94-103
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    • 2006
  • The purposes of this study were to found out the effects of appearance variables in fashion coordination cues of a male stimulus person and perceiver's traits on the liking of the stimulus person with person perception theory as the research background. The study consisted of a survey and a quasi-experiment. The experimental materials used for this study were 18 stimuli and instruments to measure fashion interest, liking toward the stimulus, and gender body ideology. The sampling method was a convenient sampling. The subjects consisted of 940 male and female undergraduate students aged from 18 to 51, in three areas including Daejoen, Cheongyang and Nonsan provinces. The data collection was conducted between May 1 and June 30, 2004. The validity of the measuring instruments were confirmed by pre-tests and judge group discussions, and reliability was evaluated by Cronbach' alpha analysis. The results showed that Clothing formality, make-up, hair style of stimulus person, and traits of subjects meaningfully affected on the liking toward the stimulus person. The result of the study will serve as a basic information on total fashion coordination for young male adults.

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Analysis on Image Types and Design Element Qualities of Contemporary Black Make-up (블랙 컬러를 활용한 메이크업의 이미지 유형별 디자인 요소 특징)

  • Kim, Seol-Lee;O, In-Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.561-574
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    • 2009
  • Black has been the most important color of all since the ancient times when the recognition of black roused, as well as during most of the eras; and can especially be said as the main color which controlled the chronicles of fashion. The purpose of the study was to broaden the application of black color image make-up by inquiring into make-up design elemental characteristics of lines and textures, after classifying magazine illustrations and advertisement make-up images using black. The photos which made effective use of black among fashion illustrations, magazine advertisements after 2001 were classified in to each type, and make-up expression method and characteristics according to design element of each image type was analyzed. The conclusion of such study was the following. 'Erotic image' showed contrast effect between eye make-up and lip color by using pale tone or red color. 'Mannish image' emphasized form and texture of eyebrow by restraining the colors of eyelids with natural brown tone eye make-up; 'Modern image' expressed vague eyebrow to bring the sensation of the direction of eye shadow on eyelids and eye line as well as slant line to relief. 'Kitsch image' showed free and light imagery by creating unique hair style with various colors; expressing lips mostly with colors similar to skin tone or by restraining colors on lips. 'Decadence image' showed messy and foul sensation with unstandardized eye make-up and matt skin of shimmer, glossy and pale tone, also with black colored lips; 'Retro image' expressed reinterpretation of images from 1920${\sim}$1960 to contemporary styles.

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A Comparative Study on Korean and U.S. Emo Fashion (한국과 미국의 Emo Fashion Style에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Judy Joo-Hee;Ha, Ji-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.2
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    • pp.48-61
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    • 2008
  • This study aimed to examine emo fashion, a very recent music-related fashion trend spreading fast amongst youths, and understand emo ideas and methods of expression for a greater understanding of contemporary youth sub-cultures and fashion trends. Documentary research, positive research and in-depth interviews were used throughout the study. 4 Korean emo bands and 4 U.S. emo bands were selected based on music chart rankings, and a total of 37 photographs from the bands' Internet websites were selected, and their clothes shown in the photographs were examined. 5 Korean emo band musicians were subjects of in-depth interviews, and they were asked about their emo culture, music, fashion, ideas and styles, and photographs were taken of the subjects and evaluated, too. Lastly, Korean and U.S. emo kids were studied through photographs, and comparatively analyzed. Both Korean and U.S. emo musicians wore slim silhouettes, skinny jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, black, studded belts and plastic-framed glasses. Korean fashion expressed a less depressive atmosphere with color and other details compared to the United States, and did not prefer dark black eye make-up, which United States emo style appeared to express frequently. Korean musicians' emo fashion was closer to other youth fashions, whereas U.S. emo fashion included more formal styles such as ruffled shirts and pin-striped vests. Korean emo kids wore clothes not much different from most Korean youths, but U.S. emo kids wore a lot of eye make-up and black t-shirts with graphic or skull prints, and had more geometrical hair styles, as if cut at home. The reasons for such differences were found to be a longer emo music and culture history in the United States leading to more elaborate fashion expressions and a difference in the states of mind, such as Korea pursuing to express love, and the United States pursuing loneliness.