• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.1-23
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• 1998

The origin and structural development of Do-po have been studied with a consideration of the back piece of Do-po in this paper. This study found that Do-po was in this paper. This study found that Do-po was originally imported from China. This paper reports that an earlier record on Do-po is found in an epitaph(1564) than the record found in S njoSilnok(1607) which is conventionally known as the earliest record on Do-po. The structure of Do-po has been widely known as an“attachment of J n-sam”on slitted back piece of the outwear. However, this study shows that Do-po has been formed by inserting the gusset of the front piece into the back piece of the outwear Jik-nyung. This change can be considered as the economical and practical needs to save the cloth or by the aethetical need of simpler clothing. This study also classifies the shape of gussets largely into nine classes according to the temporal development in the shape of gussets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.788-800
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop a caregiver's uniform that is appropriate for nursing and to improve movement adaptability as well as having a pleasing appearance. Based on the results of preliminary study, I investigated the inconvenience and problems with the existing uniforms and made a sample uniform taking into consideration the design, the material, and the pattern. We carried out a sensory assessment and quantitative assessment in order to compare the sample uniform with existing uniforms. Following are the results of this research. The top is a short-sleeved blouse with a round neckline having no collar and with armpit gussets. The armpit gussets are semicircles and the inverted pleats in the back are an improvement designed for activity. The pants are long reaching to the ankles with elastic in the waist so that the waist measurement may be adjusted. The length of the pants can be adjusted with strings and the pants have a funnel-shaped pocket for adjustment of length. We used a mix of polyurethane and polyester for the outer cloth of the uniform in order to improve activity function and used $Coolever^{TM}$, the sanitary textile that absorbs moisture well and dries in a short time, for gussets in the armpits, which is the heavy sweat area. The appearance assessment and movement adaptability assessment were performed with 5 subjects and 9 experts. For the results of the assessment, the sample uniform was appraised to be better than the existing uniforms in every item of an appearance comparison assessment except for the neckline assessment by the experts. As for the assessment of movement appropriateness and wearing assessment, the same subjects were used for analysis. As the results of the assessment, the sample uniform was rated higher than the existing uniforms in movement adaptability and pleasing appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.548-559
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• 2001

This study is to understand Chang-ui construction of the middle Chosun Dynasty through the reconstruction of the blue Chang-ui which was excavated from General Parks tomb. The followings are the results of this study. There are 4 styles in excavated Chang-ui of middle Chosun Dynasty: Two styles seem to belong to the early 17th Century and the other, the late 17th century. The former is classified into 2 styles by the gender of the wearer, the latter is also classified into 2 styles by etiquette of clothing. We can assume that Chang-ui excavated from General Parks tomb was the womans clothing in early 17th century. This Chang-ui(II) differs from other Chang-ui(I) at two points. One is the construction of the trapezoid and triangle gussets on the side seam of clothing. The other is the construction of the narrow width of clothing(23cm). We have found that these two gussets could improve the active aspect of clothing and save materials. It is identified that the green tone was faded from the blue color of Chang-ui according to the calculation of the L*a*b.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.31-42
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• 2008

The fashion of the 19C had been through many diverse styles, i.e. Empire style, Romantic style, Crinoline style and the Bustle style. These styles had emphasized a certain figures, such as exaggerated hourglass silhouette of crinoline style or S silhouette of bustle style. Following the trends, corsets became more than underwears. Actually they supported the fashion of the 19C. Apparently, the corsets had been evolved in many aspects. Patterns, materials and trimmings were developed and refined to make torso figures desirable. The initial purpose of the research is to find out how they developed corset patterns to make such a diverse figures, so that the techniques can be adopted in contemporary pattern design. The 16 corsets and their patterns were quoted from books related the subject. The patterns were redrawn of same scale for the comparative study concerning cutting lines and measurements. Coming to the late, more curved lines and more segmented cutting were used to make body more of glamour and natural. Gussets were another key technique to make them work. Various sized and shaped gussets were used to follow the trends of ever changing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.147-164
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

• Proceedings of the KWS Conference
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• 2005.11a
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• pp.88-90
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.71-85
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• 2003

The costume of the 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the graves of Tong-Rae Jwg Clan are studied in this paper. The remaining were used for filling up the coffin consists of 1 piece of Dopo(도포) from the grave of Jung, Kwang-Kyung, 7 pieces of Joongchimak(중적막), 1 piece of Sochng-eui(소창의), and 1 piece of pants from the grave of Jae-Hoo Jung, grand-son of Kwang-Kyung Jung. From these remainings, this study newly reveals or confirms : 1) Standards of transition Procedure of mid-l7th century's Dopo with gussets, 2) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Joongchimak with wide sleeves and side slits, 3) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Sochang-eui with narrow sleeves and side slits, 4) Typical style of pants in the 17th century, 5) The constructive methods for quilted fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.535-543
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• 2017

For column-beam gussets of wooden structures, slit-processed members inserted with a steel plate are used in general. In this study, a rigid portal frame bonded with a joint was fabricated and a semi-rigid portal frame was fabricated by making a wooden gusset, a replacement for steel plate, of which a half was integrated into the column member and the other half was joined with the beam member by drift-pins. The lateral strength performance of the wooden portal frame was compared with that of the steel plate-inserted joint portal frame. The lateral strength performance was evaluated through a perfect elasto-plasticity model analysis, sectional stiffness change rate, and short-term permissible shear strength. As a result of the experiment, the maximum strength of the rigid portal frame was lower than that of the steel plate-inserted joint portal frame. The yield strength and ultimate strength were calculated as 0.58 and 0.48, respectively, but the measurements of initial stiffness and cumulative ductility improved by 1.35 and 1.1, respectively. As a result of the perfect elasto-plasticity model analysis of the semi-rigid portal frame, the maximum strength was lower than that of the rigid portal frame, but the toughness after failure was excellent. Thus, the ultimate strength was higher by 1.05~1.07. The steel plate-inserted portal frame showed rapid decrease in stiffness with the progress of repeated tests, but the stiffness of the portal frames with a wooden joint decreased slowly.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.53-61
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• 2017

In this study, specimens were produced with a column member and a wooden gusset only by inserting an wooden gusset which is a substitute for steel plate into the center of a slit-processed column member. The moment resistance performance of the specimens was compared with that of control specimens that used a steel plate. The measured maximum moments of the specimens produced with GFRP-reinforced wooden laminated gussets and pins were lower by 24% on average compared to the steel plate-inserted specimens, but they showed good toughness. The fracture shape suggests that it was fractured along the annual rings between the pin and the end of the column member. The rigid specimen that integrated a laminated wood and a wooden laminated gusset with adhesive showed 2.8 times greater initial rigidity and 40% greater maximum moment on average compared to the control specimen. The rigid specimens mainly fractured on a glulam around glue line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.306-315
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• 2006

Today, the uniform is perceived being important, because it transmits the unique company image through visualization of images, improves efficiency of work, and increases the feeling of belonging. Therefore, the purpose of this project was to make the winter uniform for the personnel in the manufacturing and the business departments of Korea Tobacco and Ginseng Corporation. The functional, aesthetic, and symbolic aspects were fully considered throughout the design process for the new uniform. To reflect the worker's opinions, the questionnaire method was used. The questionnaire was made up of the questions about the evaluation criteria and design preference for uniform. The result of the survey was reflected on the uniform design. The uniform consists of a jumper and a pair of pants. The jumper for manufacturing workers has two patched pockets with gussets. It has a convertible collar and a horizontal tuck on front panel. It has an open fastener on the front and a flap to cover the fastener. It has two types of pockets inside for functional reason. The welt one is for a wallet and the small one is for a pen. For the material, melanges with two tones of gray color was used, so it gave the sophisticated look on the uniform. The jumper for business workers also has a convertible collar and inside pockets. It has two slant slash pockets with welt. In addition, it has an attachable fur collar which gives thermal protection and aesthetic effect. The fabric has small check pattern and was made of wool. The pants are a basic trouser style with two pleats on the front.