• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.29-44
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• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.117-142
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• 1997

This study is on perfume case that is one of a great number of ornaments which was designed by out ancestors. We had developed the tradition and the history of perfume case bag fan-weight etc. These have the same function as the present perfume. case. There were basket-shaped perfume cases which were the smellest one among the personal girdle ornaments in the silla era. The various patterned perfume case were made of gold metal coral platinum or green jadeite etc. In the single-crop trinkets a embroidered perfume bag with the gold and silver thread whose forms perfectly match their functions appeared during the Yi Dynasty. There was also a perfume bag which was one of the daily necessities. A precious "jul perfume" was carried by noble women. A fan-weight perfume bag was attached to the fan to emphasize the intrinsic beauty of utility and function. It is necessary to know the function of prefume case. As perfume case is weared on the clothes it was given more decorative effects as well as the function of medicinal amulet with a sweet smell. Therefore it is very important for us to study perfume case that has various function as an ornament. So The purpose of this study is to investigate the practical and decorative side of perfume case with the general examines of perfume finding how to practice use through our life. The results were as follows; 1. The first use of perfume is perfume through smoke which is for ceremony of religion It removes human body odor by degrees and spreads a sweet odor. Also the materials for making perfume of early age is aromatic plants which will be used flour-made flowers stems. As the materials for making perfume use is increasing today we can invent alcohol perfume today 2. Our country the custom of perfume-used is wide. Among them men's perfume-used was very special phenomenon. For example men were wearing perfume bag in the Silla era. Because perfume represented wealth and noble in those days. They shew off social position personality through perfume-used. 3. One of early religion ceremony article there was the perfume. And perfume case was means for containing perfume. Gradually the perfume case was used widly as increasing needs of perfume in human life. 4. In the middle period of 'Koryo' Dynasty perfume cases had a close relationship with clothes but after Mongolian has been attacked 'Koryo' there were changes in wearing clothes therefore the position of perfume cases were transfered to coat string that was the origin of decoration style that they began. That is to say the perfume case has been influenced the position of perfume case shapes with changing of fashion. 5. The perfume case has been made manifest various function as an ornament. In the practical side First medical-perfume in perfume case has been played an important role in first-aid medicine in critical condition. Second it was amulet for self protection. That is the shape pattern color materials perfume of the perfume case was represented the amuletive nature. Third it was used as substitute article of perfume. Modern women use liquid-perfume as our ancestors used perfume case bag or jul perfume As started above. Also In the decorative side the perfume case has a beautiful formative arts by itself as well as a close relationship with clothes. That well as a close relationship with clothes. That is when the perfume case is worn on the clothes costume is showed aesthetices. That is the materials shapes color pattern of the perfume case we can see the visual beauty also the materials colors embroidered pattern knots tassel that are used the perfume case are increased the decorative beauty of costume. Sixth the symbol in pattern of the pattern case is shown ancetor's wealth and rank health longevity immortality many-born-boy in those days. Today the perfume case is not used with changing of costume by degrees, Accordingly I hope that the result of this study is an influened in devlopment of the perfume case design with matching the modern fashion.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20 no.1 s.69
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• pp.5-20
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• 2007

The aim of this research is to find out the flows of mega-trends and design trends by analyzing the factors that influence trend and design trends in the late 20th century. Moreover, it is to forecast and recommend design color trends by evaluating color trends in design trends for the near future. Secondary and primary research were used in parallel. In the late 20th century, mega-trends were analyzed from secondary research based on PEST. Design trends were analyzed from case studies in fashion, space, product and visual design. On this basis, design color trends were analyzed. Also, color trends were forecast for the near future. The results are as follows. Firstly, the main trends in the late 20th century were 'female thinking', 'back to the nature' and 'heaven of peace'. Second, main design trends in the 1970s were modernism, post-modernism and high-tech. In the 1980s, with those of the 1970s, ecology was introduced In the late 1980s. In the 1990s, modernism rose again and ecology had an influence. The trends of 'female thinking' and 'back to the nature' controled the design in the early 2000s. Third, design colors in the late 20th century changed from Red to Purple Blue. Tones changed from 'grayish' to 'dull' Finally, it was forecast that Purple Blue, Yellow Red and Green colors with 'grayish', 'dull' and 'deep' tones were going to be used mainly in the near future. Also, achromatic colors with female and warm nuances would be reflected in design parts. This research will be very useful in that it has built a concrete database reflected on design trends forecasting in the near future by organizing academically a methodology to identify trends reflected on design and identifying relation between mega-trends and design trends based on analyzing factors that influence trend.

• Archives of Pharmacal Research
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.249-268
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• 2005

Drug metabolizing enzymes (DMEs) play central roles in the metabolism, elimination and detoxification of xenobiotics and drugs introduced into the human body. Most of the tissues and organs in our body are well equipped with diverse and various DMEs including phase I, phase II metabolizing enzymes and phase III transporters, which are present in abundance either at the basal unstimulated level, and/or are inducible at elevated level after exposure to xenobiotics. Recently, many important advances have been made in the mechanisms that regulate the expression of these drug metabolism genes. Various nuclear receptors including the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), orphan nuclear receptors, and nuclear factor-erythoroid 2 p45-related factor 2 (Nrf2) have been shown to be the key mediators of drug-induced changes in phase I, phase II metabolizing enzymes as well as phase III transporters involved in efflux mechanisms. For instance, the expression of CYP1 genes can be induced by AhR, which dimerizes with the AhR nuclear translocator (Arnt) , in response to many polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon (PAHs). Similarly, the steroid family of orphan nuclear receptors, the constitutive androstane receptor (CAR) and pregnane X receptor (PXR), both heterodimerize with the ret-inoid X receptor (RXR), are shown to transcriptionally activate the promoters of CYP2B and CYP3A gene expression by xenobiotics such as phenobarbital-like compounds (CAR) and dexamethasone and rifampin-type of agents (PXR). The peroxisome proliferator activated receptor (PPAR), which is one of the first characterized members of the nuclear hormone receptor, also dimerizes with RXR and has been shown to be activated by lipid lowering agent fib rate-type of compounds leading to transcriptional activation of the promoters on CYP4A gene. CYP7A was recognized as the first target gene of the liver X receptor (LXR), in which the elimination of cholesterol depends on CYP7A. Farnesoid X receptor (FXR) was identified as a bile acid receptor, and its activation results in the inhibition of hepatic acid biosynthesis and increased transport of bile acids from intestinal lumen to the liver, and CYP7A is one of its target genes. The transcriptional activation by these receptors upon binding to the promoters located at the 5-flanking region of these GYP genes generally leads to the induction of their mRNA gene expression. The physiological and the pharmacological implications of common partner of RXR for CAR, PXR, PPAR, LXR and FXR receptors largely remain unknown and are under intense investigations. For the phase II DMEs, phase II gene inducers such as the phenolic compounds butylated hydroxyanisol (BHA), tert-butylhydroquinone (tBHQ), green tea polyphenol (GTP), (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and the isothiocyanates (PEITC, sul­foraphane) generally appear to be electrophiles. They generally possess electrophilic-medi­ated stress response, resulting in the activation of bZIP transcription factors Nrf2 which dimerizes with Mafs and binds to the antioxidant/electrophile response element (ARE/EpRE) promoter, which is located in many phase II DMEs as well as many cellular defensive enzymes such as heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), with the subsequent induction of the expression of these genes. Phase III transporters, for example, P-glycoprotein (P-gp), multidrug resistance-associated proteins (MRPs), and organic anion transporting polypeptide 2 (OATP2) are expressed in many tissues such as the liver, intestine, kidney, and brain, and play crucial roles in drug absorption, distribution, and excretion. The orphan nuclear receptors PXR and GAR have been shown to be involved in the regulation of these transporters. Along with phase I and phase II enzyme induction, pretreatment with several kinds of inducers has been shown to alter the expression of phase III transporters, and alter the excretion of xenobiotics, which implies that phase III transporters may also be similarly regulated in a coordinated fashion, and provides an important mean to protect the body from xenobiotics insults. It appears that in general, exposure to phase I, phase II and phase III gene inducers may trigger cellular 'stress' response leading to the increase in their gene expression, which ultimately enhance the elimination and clearance of these xenobiotics and/or other 'cellular stresses' including harmful reactive intermediates such as reactive oxygen species (ROS), so that the body will remove the 'stress' expeditiously. Consequently, this homeostatic response of the body plays a central role in the protection of the body against 'environmental' insults such as those elicited by exposure to xenobiotics.