• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.15-25
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• 2007

As a part of the study for the materials development of compound feelings, therefore, this study investigated into the effects of the colors of warp and weft on the overall colors of fabrics, along with the visual changes of colors by the measuring angle of both warp and weft, by means of cross-dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics. First, the dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics individually with the same color, the dyeing of PET fabrics followed by that of cotton fabrics resulted in a small difference in color than the dyeing in the reversed order. Second, in the case of the dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the color of cotton fiber, which is warp, gave much influence. In addition, the color change was remarkable among complementary colors, while it was negligible among adjacent colors. Third, in the case of dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the results were different by the measuring angle. When PET was fixed in green and cotton was dyed in ten colors, color-deepening was observed by the inclination in the direction of warp and weft without the dominance over all colors like cotton. When cotton was dyed in red and PET in ten colors, the color of PET appeared dimly in the horizontal case by the direction of the light, and red appeared as inclined in the direction of warp and weft. This is because of the dominance of cotton color over the overall color, since the density of cotton fiber, the warp of union fabrics, is higher than that of PET, the weft. Thus, this is to be considered in the selection of the warp's color. In view of the above results, the color changes are outstanding when the color of warp dominates the overall color and when the colors of warp and weft are complementary, in comparison with the case when the colors are adjacent. The colors also change by the measuring angle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2009

This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times ($1890{\sim}2000$) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.515-522
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• 2017

The natural dyeing industry has been faced with increasing demands of constant needs for environmentally and body friendly clothing products among modern consumers. Natural dyeing has attracted attention as a next-generation technology in green textiles. Dyestuffs need to be diversified for technological development activation in order to meet the increasing demands for natural dyeing. This study extracted dyeing solutions from the leaves of the Rose of Sharon (the national flower of South Korea) and investigated its dyeing properties for the development of various natural dyestuffs. This study investigates the dyeability of silk fabrics with Rose of Sharon leaves extract. Optimal conditions for dyeing of silk fabrics with the extract of Rose of Sharon were $40^{\circ}C/80min$ and $90^{\circ}C/60min$ with 100% concentration. Looking at the results, it showed the best K/S value at pH3, Sn pre-mordanting and Fe post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing and perspiration was good at grade 4-5 or 4. However, light fastness was observed in grade 2. In aspect of functional property, it showed an excellent result of 90% deodorization rate. In addition, its proven functionalities (deodorant properties) will help to produce high value added environment-friendly products. Those findings demonstrate the possibilities of the Rose of Sharon as an environment-friendly dye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.75-81
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• 2005

The experiment aimed at knowing the effect of physiology and psychology according to season on color preference. Two tests, one of the spring and the other of the autumn was conducted. Seventy subjects with normal color vision served as subjects. The subjects entered a bioclimatic chamber controlled at a temperature of $25\pm1^{\circ}C$, a relative humidity of $50\pm5\%$ and a light of 1000 1x. The subjects wearing white shirts and trousers sat quietly on a sofa for one our. Sensation from warm to cool colors might be possibly different individually Therefore, a subject asked to array 41 randomly placed cloth colors from very warm to very cool colors during rest quietly for one our. All subjects arrayed these cloth colors in the order from red through yellow and green to blue, which had the reproducibility. After rest, they were instructed to choose a single one out of 41 cloth colors, preferred by themselves, every 10min during one our 0-ring test were measured to red, yellow, white, blue, black, favorite color, and dislike color. Most subjects preferred warmer color in April than in December. Tympanic temperature was significantly lower in December than in April. Finger presser was significantly higher in like color than in dislike color but it was no significant differences between spring and autumn. The preferring the warm color in April toward summer when basal metabolic rate is decreased than in December toward winter when it is increased can explain that physiology reaction by load error between actual core temperature and set-point induces psychological reaction to pursue visual alliesthesia. Our present experiment revealed that the preferred color could be determined by the relationship between the internal temperature and its set point according to season. It should be emphasized that the alliesthesia was observed also in the realm of visual system.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.79-85
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• 2002

To develope natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the waste grape juice. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing time, dyeing temperature, pH and concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(${\Delta}E$) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk dyed fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were very slightly increased with dyeing time and the color of dyed silk was light purple and the cotton, ramie and hemp was light red purple. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color became lighter with dyeing temperature increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color changed from light purple to blue with the pH of dyebath increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were slightly increased with the concentration of dyebath increased. The color of dyed fabric changed with the mordant treatment and were different among the experimental fabrics. On the whole, blue tone increased with the Al and Fe mordant and green tone increased with the Cu mordant. The color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to light, washing (change) and perspiration (change) was bad and color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing were good.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1051-1057
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• 2008

Safflower red and Amur Cork Tree dyes have used for dyeing on cotton fabrics largely. But they have low degree of lightfastness, So this study investigated the effect of BTCA pre-treatment on lightfastness of cotton fabrics dyed with Safflower red and Amur Cork Tree. The result is as the following; By FT-IR spectra, crosslingking was proved in cotton fabric pre treated with BTCA. K/S value of Safflower red dyed cotton fabric pretreated with BTCA was much more decreased than untreated cotton fabric with BTCA. It showed that the hue of the Safflower red dyed cotton fabric changed from reddish purple to red. However, K/S value of Amur Cork Tree dyed cotton fabric pre treated with BTCA was much more increased than untreated cotton fabric with BTCA. It showed that the hue of the Amur Cork Tree dyed cotton fabric changed from green yellow to yellow. For K/S value of Combination dyed cotton fabric pre treated with BTCA, Safflower red color was much more decreased than untreated cotton fabric. But Amur Cork Tree color was much more increased than untreated cotton fabric. It changed from reddish purple, red, yellowe red, to yellow in hue. ${{\Delta}E^*}_{ab}$ of Combination dyed cotton fabric in 40 hours irradiation was 15.7, however ${{\Delta}E^*}_{ab}$ of Combination dyed cotton fabric treated with 2% BTCA was 8.0, and that treated with 3% BTCA was 9.8. So, pre-treatment with BTCA to combination dyed cotton fabric with Safflower red and Amur Cork Tree showed more effective improvement of Lightfastness than untreated cotton fabric with BTCA.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.144-160
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• 2011

This study investigated the colors of the costumes and backgrounds of characters in the films "Thirst" and "Mother" from an integrated perspective. As a study method, ten scenes per film, which contained the characters and backgrounds from the start to the end of the DVDs of "Thirst" and "Mother" were examined. For integrated color analysis of the costumes and backgrounds, the colors of the captured scenes were simplified to extract representative colors, and then color palettes were presented according to the ratio of area. The colors of costumes were analyzed by recognition through the eyes based on the I.R.I. Hue and Tone 120. Furthermore, the color images of the two films were analyzed using the I.R.I. adjective image scales and the I.R.I. color image scales. The colors of the film "Thirst" were generally low in brightness and high in chroma. They are characterized by dark, gloomy toned-down background in the first half, highly chromatic vivid background in the second half, and the contrast of purple blue colors and red colors. The colors of the film "Mother" are characterized by complementary colors between background and costume colors, and various tones of blue and green colors. From the aspect of color tones, they were relatively high in brightness compared to the film "Thirst" but low in chroma. On the I.R.I. adjective image scale, contrasting adjectives were extracted simultaneously from the film "Thirst" as the adjectives were evenly distributed at hard, dynamic and static, whereas the adjectives extracted from the film "Mother" were distributed at hard and statistic. On the I.R.I. color image scale, both films were located at hard, but the film "Thirst" was located at dynamic whereas the film "Mother" was located at static.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to classify the environmental awareness attitudes of university students and analyze their differences in social support pursuit, and apparel consumption behavior. Questionnaires were administered to 236 college students living in Daegu City and Kyoungbuk province. Frequency, factor analysis, reliability analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan-test, and t-test were used for data analysis. The findings were as follows. The environmental awareness attitudes had factors as recognizing the importance of environmental issues, purchase of eco-friendly products, public opinion legislation awareness, interests on eco-friendly product, and eco-friendly practice. Social support pursuit were found as marginal people support pursuit, emotional support pursuit, informational support pursuit, and problem-solving support pursuit. Apparel consumption behavior were found as planned purchase, social participation attitude, clothes recycling, life practice, low-price orientation, emphasis on designs, clothing-life practice, and consciousness over others. The environmental awareness attitudes of university students were classified into four groups of Consumers of Environment-Awareness, Consumers of Environment-interests, Consumers of Environment-practice, and Consumers of Low Environment-awareness. The groups showed significant difference in social support pursuit, and apparel consumption behavior. Gender of university students showed significant differences the environmental awareness attitudes, social support pursuit, and apparel consumption behavior. It is meaningful to find out the significant relationship in a social context between environment recognition and social support pursuit related by friends. This study also offered a basic information related to social support pursuit by the types of university students' environmental awareness attitude and consumption on clothing, which is necessary for environmental education and green consuming behavior.