• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.609-624
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to give the guideline to the pattern designing by supplying various images of the transformed shape of tailored collar with the location and angle of gorge line and laying measurement of the tailored collar while designing the tailored collar. The results of this study are as follows : Images of the sample at the case of 1cm of laying measurement looks 'urban', 'light', 'sharp', 'young', 'fashionable' and 'narrow' than that at the case of 7cm. When the laying measurement increases, the image of the sample looks more 'classical' and 'boorish'. The image of the sample 'light', 'sensuous' and 'young' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. Second, at the case of sample whose laying measurements of the collar was 5cm, it was shown that the low location of gorge line made the image of the sample 'soft' and 'short'. On the other hand the image of the sample looked 'hard', 'keen' and 'long' by the high location of gorge line. Third, at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 7cm, low location of gorge line made the image of the sample look short. However, normal location of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'fashionable'. The images of the samples of which laying measurements of the collar were 3cm, 5cm and 7cm, respectively, had changed with the angle of gorge line. First, the high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample 'rigid' and 'keen' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. The high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'boorish' and 'singular'.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.617-627
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• 2010

This study selected and compared 7 tailored collar making factors from 15 clothing construction university textbooks. According to the results, in 15 clothing construction textbooks, the neckline of a tailored collar was drawn at the same length as the back neck circumference of the bodice and the length of collar stand was 3cm in 10 textbooks. In addition, the length of the collar laying varied between 2cm and 4.5cm regardless of the width of the upper collar or the textile thickness. In 7 out of the 15 textbooks, the gorge line of the collar was drawn by illustrating the collar pattern on the bodice based on the roll line and then copying it symmetrically. On the other hand, the pattern of upper collar was made in 5 ways; and 2 books did not give any explanation in the sections dealing with patterns or sewing. In addition, 6 textbooks explained that inner and outer collars are sewn with a difference. The lapel pattern of the facing part was made in 4 ways; in addition, 3 textbooks did not provide an explanation and 4 books explained that the difference is given in the sewing. The textile thickness and elasticity need to be considered in collar pattern making; however, they were not specifically mentioned in most of the textbooks.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• 한국지형학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.31-49
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• 2012

강원도 양구군 수입천의 지류인 사태천은 북한에서 발원하여 남쪽으로 흘러 내려 오는 하천이다. 사태천의 유역분지는 한국전쟁 당시의 격전지로 현재도 민간인의 출입이 자유롭지 않은 민간인 통제선 이북에 위치하고 있다. 출입의 제한으로 인하여 이 지역의 자연 환경은 군사적인 이용으로 인한 것 이외의 훼손이 이뤄지지 않았다. 또한 출입의 제한으로 인하여 이 지역의 지형에 대한 학술적인 연구가 진행되지 못하였다. 사태천은 남북 방향의 임당 단층을 따라 흐르다가 서류하여 두타연에 도달한다. 과거의 사태천은 두타연 부근에서 북쪽 방향으로 곡류하고 있었다. 이 곡류는 침식에 강한 암석 또는 지질 구조의 영향에 의한 것으로 추정된다. 이후 이 곡류는 시기를 한정할 수 없는 과거에 절단 되었다. 단축된 하도는 과거 곡류의 공격 사면이었던 곡류경 부분으로 하류 방향으로부터 침식이 강화되면서 곡류의 절단이 일어난 것으로 보인다. 이 곡류의 절단으로 과거의 하식애는 유로의 일부가 되어 폭포가 형성되었으며 곡류경의 일부는 하천에 의한 침식을 통하여 마식지형 만들어졌다. 이후 하천의 유로가 안정화 되면서 유수는 좁은 구간에 집중되었으며 하도 인근의 포트홀과 러넬과 같은 지형들은 유기 되면서 하도 구간의 하부에는 대형 포트홀이 만들어 졌다. 이 포트홀들은 폭호로부터 기원하였을 가능성이 크며 주로 퇴적물의 마식에 의하여 현제의 모습이 만들어 졌다. 현재 두타연의 상부 기반암은 폭 1~10m의 하폭의 변동을 보이는 내부 하도를 형성하면서 개석되고 있다. 폭이 넓은 부분은 상대적으로 침식에 약한 부분에 성장한 포트홀이며 폭이 좁은 부분은 포트홀간의 연결 부분으로 이부분에서 하상의 고도도 된다한다. 따라서 형상적인 측면으로 본다면 이 내부 하도는 동상 파상 곡벽 내부 하도 중에 하나인 슬롯형 협곡으로 볼 수 있다.