• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of and to examine the characteristics of the golden decoration technique used for expressing patterns on the costumes from Dang dynasty to Cheong dynasty era. In order to classify the types of the golden decoration technique and to examine its characteristics, literature review, focusing on documents and records of China, and investigation on the relics from Dang to Cheong Dynasty era were conducted. The types of decoration technique using gold include china JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (attaching gold powder and flake technique), GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique), GeumSaTapestry, mixed technique. Interestingly, it was newly found in this study that embroidery with golden thread was used in the GeumSaTapestry technique and that there were some cases of the mixture of 2-3 gold decoration technique. The GeumSajaSu technique was used the most frequently from Dang dynasty to Yo dynasty era. However, its use had decreased enormously while the use of JigGeum had increased a lot since Geum dynasty era. The mixture of 2-5 techniques was used frequently in JigGeum, GeumSaJaSu, and GeumSaTapestry, but not used in InGeum. Particularly, the mixture technique was the most frequently used in the GeumSaTapestry, which expresses by composition of paintings. All four methods were used the mostly frequently in costumes, while GeumSaJaSu and GeumSaTapestry were generally used for home accessories. InGeum and GeumSaJaSu were used a lot for gaze and leno fabrics such as Sa or Ra, while JigGeum was mostly used for satin weaved fabrics like Dan.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.82-95
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of golden decoration technique out of various techniques of expressing patterns on the costumes. This study reviews both costumes decorated with gold in the relics of Chosun dynasty and literatures focused on domestic and Chinese documents and records. The types of decoration technique using gold include JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (gold powder and flake attaching technique), and GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique). The JigGeum is weaved using golden thread instead of silk thread in order to express patterns. The InGeum technique is to attach gold or silver powder or thin gold or silver flake on the surface of the fabric. The GeumSaJaSu technique is to embroider with gold thread on fabrics. 82 pieces of costumes made using gold in Chosun dynasty era are analyzed. The results follows; In terms of types of technique, is shown to take the majority; JigGeum (43.90%), InGeum (30.49%), GeumSaJaSu (23.61%). Looking at the patterns used by the types, plant pattern and letter pattern are mostly used for both the JigGeum and the inGeum. In terms of the characteristics by their uses, the InGeum is used for court dresses (52%). It is also used for ordinary dresses (12%) and for other purposes (36%). It is mostly used in the court dresses in the late period of Chosun dynasty era. The JigGeum is used for ordinary dresses (47.22%), for court dresses (44.44%) and for other purposes (8.34%). It is evenly used for court dresses and ordinary dresses.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제26권
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• pp.83-182
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• 2021

본고는 경상북도 경주시 노서동 129호분(서봉총)에서 출토된 금관(보물 339호)의 보존처리와 제작기법 조사결과를 정리한 것이다. 서봉총 금관은 일제강점기인 1926년 조선총독부박물관에서 진행한 발굴조사를 통해 출토되었으며, 현재 국립중앙박물관 소장품이다. 국내에 현존하는 신라 금관은 총 6점으로, 그 중 서봉총 금관은 신라 금관의 전형을 보이면서도 새장식이 달린 돔형의 반구형장식이 존재하는 유일한 사례이다. 출토이후 금속재료와 접착제 등으로 수리되었으나, 형상이 일부 변형되고 수리재료로 인한 금관의 손상이 야기되어 보존처리를 진행하였다. 이 글에서는 서봉총 금관의 보존처리 및 원형복원의 전 과정과 특히 유물의 안정성을 위해 중점을 둔 접합부 보강 방법을 상세히 서술하고, 보존처리 중 조사를 통해 확인된 제작과정의 특징을 소개하고자 한다. 또한 서봉총과 유사형태의 신라관의 제작기법을 비교하여 서봉총 금관과 다른 신라관의 관계성을 검토하고자 하였다. 서봉총 금관의 제작당시 기본 장식은 금제 영락이었으며, 이후 세움장식의 영락 일부를 곡옥으로 교체하고 관테에는 곡옥을 새로 연결하여 장식을 수정한 정황을 새롭게 확인하였다. 이러한 현상이 다른 금관에도 적용되었는지 알아보고자 국내 신라 금관 6점의 장식기법을 모두 비교한 결과 천마총 출토 금관에서 동일한 방식의 수정 흔적과 여러 유사성을 확인하였다.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제32호
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• pp.90-96
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• 2002

Laying stress on the upper classes of Western Europe until from the seventeenth to the eighteenth century, the chinese mode in the fields of architecture, interior design and fashion was widely liked. It is called as ‘chinoiserie’into the French language. The chinese design with its quantity and ornamentation exerted an influence upon‘Rococo’in France and upon ‘Chippendale’ in England. The chinese mode that was made best use of the furniture design is the one of Ming dynasty. This was developed in relation to the interior design of ‘Siheyuan’ that is the architectural mode in those days. The furnitures at the times of Ming dynasty was raised to the position of the golden era in the history of chinese furnitures. The furniture has the technique laying stress on symmetrical proportion, simplicity. This technique showed as the formative modeling. also on the part of decoration ornamental designs showing the china ideology of Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism it was used. In this formative modeling the ideological background of those days forms the groundwork. The combination of reason and sentiment and of heart and mind emphasizes that our emotion should be in control by the ration and our emotion and ration should be harmonized.