• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.95-112
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• 2005

Hair styles, dresses and their ornaments are basic measures that show the trend of the times, the people and their life in both Eastern and Western societies. The history of a country could start or be extinguished at any time, but life goes on. Koguryo was founded around Anno Domini and fell at 668 A. D. What was Koguryo people like? How was their hair style and costume? This study aims to respond those questions. The Koguryo ancient mural paintings can be broadly divided into the Jip-An region and the Pyon-Yang region. Among the paintings found, that in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb at the Pyon-Yang region is the biggest and the most splendid. It is a figure genre painting, which contains a kitchen, a rice mill, a stable, a barn, a garage, etc. Those places illustrate the way of life at the time. The painting also comprises a man with a crown, who is seen as the king and owner of this tomb. The woman with a vertically designed hair style is perceived as the queen. A highly guarded and decorated royal parade is also presented in detail. The hair styles and costume evidence in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb are not seen in the paintings of the Jip-An region. This study inquires into the differences between the Pyon-Yang and lip-An regions through the history and the culture of those areas. Nevertheless, it could prove tentative to confirm the owner of the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb with the only evidence of the words found in the wall of the tomb. It is the author's intention to study and analyse further.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.536-543
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• 2003

The Chosun Dynasty in the $18^{th}$ century was a period of revival for science, art, and culture, bringing about Silhak(practical science), a new trend in the history of Chosun thoughts. In the history of fine arts, realistic landscape paintings and genre paintings were popular as realism became prevalent. From the aspect of food culture, in particular, the luxurious and elegant Korean-styled food culture was completed during this period. Iwanwasuseoksihoedo was painted by Jeong Hwang (1735-1800) in 1789, depicting a banquet on an elder's $60^{th}$ birthday. It is classified as a genre painting in the late Chosun Period but it contains things that comes into our heart, which are white porcelain with blue celadon pictures, white porcelain bowls, busy atmosphere of a banqueting house where food is being carried in a hurry and elders' serene appearance. All these things show the abundance of life, the room and comfort of old ages, and the beauty and relish of life in the well-arranged living ground. Hoehonyedo was painted on an elder's $60^{th}$ marriage anniversary by an unknown artist presumably in the $18^{th}$ century is a painting as realistic as a documentary photograph. The work gives viewers pleasure and comfort because it describes not a mighty clan but the superb later years of an official who had lived right and upright life. In the aspect of food culture, it displays the food culture of the splendid sixtieth marriage anniversary of a Korean official through noble etiquette among family members, seat planning, unique table culture and high quality tableware including white porcelain with celadon pictures and pure white porcelain.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.143-151
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• 2009

Ukiyo-e is the representative genre-painting of Japan, dominant during the 17th century Edo-Period (1503-1867). Ukiyo-e is mainly focused on expressing the lives of geishas, sumo wrestlers, and kabuki characters, who were the center of the Japanese amusement culture, and gained popular acceptance in Europe when it was first introduced in the late 19th century in the form of Japonism, having significant influence and impact on the impressionist artists of the time and on the design of western cloths. In this papers, we will be primarily conducting a historical study on the development of the Ukiyo-e, a representative genre-painting of Japan, and conduct a in-depth analysis of pattern expressed in the Kosode of women, represented through various different works of art. In order to conduct a thorough analysis of pattern expressed in Ukiyo-e, we collected over 255 pieces of materials from existing foreign paintings as well as museums in the National Museum of Tokyo, Edo Museum, and the Harajuku Museum of Ukiyo-e. This papers seeks to analyze and classify patterns expressed in the works of Ukiyo-e and research the characteristics express in the pattern to contribute to the development of fabrics in the modern fashion design industry.

• 복식
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.76-97
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to review the influence of Ukiyo-e on the design of European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century and the expression of the design of Kosode design in Edo-era. We collected data from the actual study of visiting Museums and other theories and visual materials through literature review. Then, we analyzed the data. The result came out that Ukiyo-e, which is the genre painting of Edo-era, provided the new vision and the new way of expression to the European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century. In the same way, the result also indicated that Ukiyo-e similarly influenced on the design of Kosode. For example, the study showed that the patterns of Kosode, such as flower, bridge, fun, wave, Lotus flower, stripe, oval, plaid, were used in the works of European artists in the $19^{th}$ century. The Ukiyo-e styles include Kan Bun style, Dan-Gawari style, Back facing style, Two-Section Segmentation style, and Folding screen style, with the identity of Japan and Japanese unique nature and landscapes. Thus, this study proved the design of Kosode to be the frontier of both European and Japanese arts, by examining Ukioyo-e's plastic characteristics, its composition & arrangements, and its subjects & objects which were samely revealed in Kosode design and European Art in nineteenth century.

• 가족자원경영과 정책
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.1-21
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the gender division of housework in the Choson period. The gender division in the Choson period has been considered as discriminative because women had to remain indoors and were excluded in social works. But in fact the Confucian idea, which regulated the relation between women and men, emphasized the gender difference and not gender discrimination. Actually it can be seen in genre painting of Choson period that women and men worked complimentarily indoors. So this article intends to explore the possibilities of the new analysis of the traditional gender division of housework by reviewing the paintings. As the results indicate, men in the Choson period were involved in some housework, in contrast to the common idea that they maintained their authority by not participating housework. There is also some evidence that gender division benefited women to protect their own productive territory or to satisfy their needs. So it is suggested that gender division in the Choson period should be considered as a source of power as well as a disadvantage to women. Forth, the employed mens' reemployment decision was affected from their household income, expected income after retirement, pension ownership, and attitude toward retirement. From the findings, it can be concluded that the employed mens' age, economic status, and attitude toward retirement played a important role in the process of retirement and reemployment decision making.

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제36권5호
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• pp.94-107
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• 2008

본 연구는 조선시대 풍속화를 분석하여 당대의 정원이 어떻게 활용되었는가를 추적해 보는 연구이다. 정원의 다양한 의미 중 감각적 즐거움의 장으로서 의미에 초점을 맞춘다. 이를 위해 서구의 감각적 즐거움과 비교되는 동아시아의 미학적 특질인 풍류 개념을 활용한다. 풍류의 개념은 감각적 즐거움을 넘어 정신적 희열로서 인간이 자연과 존재론적으로 조우하는 차원의 의미를 내포한다. 정원에서의 활동을 살펴보기 위해서 일상생활을 포착한 조선시대의 풍속화를 대상으로 하였다. 정원의 경계가 명확하고 구체적인 공간이용행태를 보이는 풍속화로 13점을 선정하여 분석하였다. 그 결과 다음과 같은 특징이 파악되었다. 첫째, 정원은 자연과의 합일을 통한 커뮤니케이션의 장이라는 점이다. 이 자연과의 합일은 사람과의 합일, 예술과의 합일을 촉발하며 공동체의 커뮤니케이션 작용을 가능하게 한다. 둘째, 정원은 문화 창작 공간이라는 점이 확인되었다. 정원은 사람들이 모여 시회를 하는 등 시적인 상상력을 촉진시키는 장소이다. 셋째, 정원은 내면 성찰을 위한 명상의 장이라는 점이다. 이러한 개인적 차원의 풍류가 존재하므로 소박하거나 일상적인 정원도 가치를 가지게 된다. 넷째, 정원은 취향, 권력, 인맥 등 드러내기의 장이라는 점이다. 풍류는 특정 계층에 의하여 추구되는 경향이 있기에, 이러한 계층적 특성이 정원문화에서도 나타난다. 정원과 관련된 풍류문화 역시 개인적인 사색적 풍류에서 유희적 풍류에 이르기까지 다양한 층위가 존재함이 확인되었다. 서구의 자연관이나 문화를 답습하기보다는 우리 선조들이 향유하였던 풍류문화를 현대적으로 재해석하고 보다 일상적이며 친숙하게 번안하는 시도가 요구된다.

• International Journal of Knowledge Content Development & Technology
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.37-49
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• 2012

This research aims to perform a contextual study of the wedding customs, wedding procedures, and wedding costumes included in Korean traditional wedding culture, making use of cultural contents which form cultural archetypes. The range of wedding customs studied are set limits from the Joseon dynasty to ancient times, and, for wedding procedures and costumes, to the Chosun dynasty, when a wedding ceremony became the norm. Only wedding ceremonies performed among ordinary classes are included as subjects for this research; wedding ceremonies and costumes for court are excluded. The cultural archetypes developed within these boundaries suggest prior cultural content, developed beforehand. The research methods are focused on document records inquiry and genre paintings during the Joseon era, using museum resources as visual materials. The following is the outcome of this research: Firstly, wedding customs and procedures observed among folk materials are presented in chronological order. Secondly, the brides' and grooms' wedding costumes are also presented chronologically, differentiated by class-characteristics.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제37권
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• pp.121-150
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• 2004

일반적으로 산수표현을 많이 하는 불화 장르로는 십육나한도를 비롯하여 팔상도, 감로도, 관음보살도 등과 조선후기에 특히 많이 조성된 독성도나 산신도 등을 들 수 있다. 이들 불화는 대체로 산수를 비롯하여 다양한 배경을 갖추고 있는데, 18세기 이후 수묵적 전통이 남아있는 경우도 있지만 화려한 채색과 산수를 비롯한 다양한 경물의 표현으로 복잡해지는 경향이 강해지며, 19세기에는 흔히 말하는 민화적 요소가 등장하여 시대적인 경향을 보여 준다. 19세기 말~20세기 초에 제작된 16나한도는 이러한 경향 중에서도 배경묘사에 있어서 전통적인 요소도 있지만 그보다는 채색이나 제재면에서 시대적인 예술경향을 반영하는 민화적인 배경이 가장 다양하고 뚜렷하게 부각되어 배경표현의 주된 요소가 된다는 점에서 다른 불화와 차별된다. 즉 조선후기 16나한도에는 당시 유행하던 민화풍과 궁중화풍 등에서 보이던 청록산수식의 배경묘사가 두드러지며 십장생(十長生) 운룡(雲龍) 맹호(猛虎) 괴석(怪石) 화조(花鳥) 책가(冊架) 등과 같은 새로운 배경표현이 등장하여 폭넓은 수용 태도를 보여준다. 대체로 제재면에서는 수명장수, 부귀, 기복과 관련된 길상 상징물이 압도적으로 많음을 알 수 있는데, 이는 조선시대 서민불교로의 전환이라는 불교계의 동향, 특히 도교와 민간신앙과의 습합이라는 불교계의 자구적 모색과 밀접한 관련을 갖고 있다. 이는 16나한도나 당시 불화에 표현된 다양한 도교인물들의 모습을 통해서 엿볼 수 있다. 주로 19세기 말~20세기 초에 제작된 16나한도에 정형화된 양식의 민화풍이 등장한다는 것은 현존 민화의 제작연대를 추론하는 하나의 단서를 제공해 줄 것으로 생각하며, 불화승들이 민간의 수요와 요청에 의해 민화의 작가로 제작에 적극적으로 참여하였을 가능성을 시사하고 있다. 조선후기 불화에서의 민화적 요소의 고찰은 그 제재나 형태상의 유사점에서 출발했지만, 극단적인 희화화라든가 파격미 등은 보이지 않는다. 오히려 궁중의 장식그림과 유사한 양식의 표현이 많다는 점은 종교화로서의 기능을 갖추고 있는 불화라서 가능했던 것으로 생각한다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.4-23
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• 2018

서병오(徐丙五, 1862-1936)는 서구적 '미술' 개념의 도입으로 일본화 내지 서양화로 기울던 일제강점기 시서화일치의 대구 문인화단이 형성되는데 중추적인 역할을 하였다. 그는 1879년 이하응(李昰應, 1820-1898)과의 만남을 계기로 서화계에 입문하였으나, 문인화가로 본격적인 활동을 시작한 것은 1910년 경술국치 이후부터이다. 그의 예술세계는 세 시기로 구분되며, 학습기인 1879년부터 1897년까지는 관직 진출을 목표로 하였던 때문인지 중국 화보를 임모하거나 이하응의 영향 아래 사군자화를 여가에 그리는 정도였다. 발전기는 1898년부터 1920년까지로 그는 애국계몽운동 등 사회적 지도자로 활동하다 1910년 경술국치 이후 삶의 방향을 문인화가로 전환하였다. 그리고 두 번째 중국 여행에서 다시 만난 민영익(閔泳翊, 1860-1914)의 운미란과 포화(蒲華, 1830-1911)의 묵죽법을 근간으로 새로운 화풍을 적극 모색함과 동시에 산수, 화훼, 기명절지 등의 화목도 다루었다. 완숙기인 1921년부터 1936년까지는 대구와 한양을 오가며 근대 한국 화단의 서화가로 왕성하게 활동하였으며, 묵란과 묵죽에서 윤묵의 호방한 필법을 특징으로 하는 개성적 화풍을 완성하였다. 특히 학습기의 경우 관련 기록이나 현전작품이 드물어 서병오의 창작활동이나 화풍 등에 관한 것은 추론의 수준을 벗어나지 못하고 있다. 이와 관련해 본고에서 집중적으로 분석한 서병오의 1889년작 난석죽도 11점은 학습기의 화풍 연원이나 수준을 가늠할 수 있는 중요한 단서라는 점에서 주목된다. 1889년작 난죽석도 가운데 묵란도는, 이하응이 1882년 7월 청군에 의해 체포되기 이전에 그린 초기 군란도와 석란도에서 영향 받았다는 사실을 확인하였다. 묵죽도는 한양에 널리 알려진 양주화파 정섭(鄭燮, 1693-1765)과 김정희의 제자 허련(許鍊, 1809-1892)의 화법을 수용했을 뿐만 아니라 이하응의 석란도 형식을 응용하여 변화를 시도했던 것으로 보인다. 괴석도의 경우 직접적인 관련성은 찾지 못하였으나, 19세기 후반 청나라의 괴석화가 주당(周棠, 1806-1876)과 여항화가 정학교(丁學敎, 1832-1914) 등에게 영향을 받았던 것으로 판단된다. 결론적으로 서병오의 1889년작 난죽석도는 학습기에 그려진 것으로 운현궁을 찾았던 허련과 정학교 같은 동시기 화가들이나, 한양에 작품이 유입되었던 정섭과 주당 등의 중국 작품을 실견하며 이들의 화풍을 수용하였다는 사실을 알려준다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.915-929
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• 2000

As a result of research, the character of the general dress-costumes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century in Genre Paintings of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho is as follows. Firstly young women wore braided hair at the back of head and married women wore hair in the style of Unjeun-mori with Gache. The length of Jeogori (Korean traditional jacket) covered waistor shortened to waist length. The width of Jeongori was suitable, because side-seam line was straight or oblique as it comes into inner line. The width of Git was enough and Mokpan-git (shape of board) and Kal-kit (shape of knife) appeared, and sometimes used other color fabric. Sleeve was narrow and ostly folded up. Chima (Korean traditional skirt) used darker color fabric than Jeogori and the width of Chima was narrow and its length was short. Sokbaji (Korean traditional underpants) shown below were narrow and its end narrower. They were barefoot or they wore Hye (Korean traditional shoes) after putting on Beoseon (Korean traditional socks). Secondly general man's hair tie a topknot (sangtu) and put on headdres, 'Bang-lip', 'Mang-geon', hairband, 'Tang-geon' on head. The length of Jeogori became shorter from the line which covered hip to the line which covered waist. The width of Jeogori was suitable and sometimes it had a slit of side-seam line. The width of Git (neckand) was wide and the length of Git was long. 'Kal-git'appeared and it used other color fabric. The shape of sleeve was straight and narrow. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their slack that look like 'Jam-bang-i'and the width of slacks was not suitable, and it was narrow. Baji (Korean traditional pants) were with or without knot, worn 'Hangjeon'(ankle band). They were barefoot and wore 'Hye'or 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Thirdly a person of high birth or a low-ranked official put 'Yu-geon', 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-du', 'Bok-geon', 'Whi-hang'on their head on a topknot. They wore 'Po (Shim-ui, Jick-ryeong'Jung-chi-mak, Do-po, etc)'on Baji and Jeogori. 'Po'was long and wide, it knot with 'Se-jo-dae'(string belt) or 'Po-baek-dae'(band belt). It had a slit of sideline and 'Mu'which had or had not or which were hard to confirm. The shape of sleeve was straight or very wide and its length was long. The width of Baji was wide and knotted with 'Hangjeon'and wore'Beoseon'and 'Hye'. Fourthly child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line and its width was wide. It had a 'Jeogori'which had s slit of sideline. The shape of sleeve was 'Tong-su'(straight), and the length of sleeve was diverse. They put 'Baeja'on 'Jeogori'. The width of Baji was not wide. They wore them straight without or with knot, 'Hangjeon'. They were barefoot or put on 'Jipsin'.