Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.21
no.4
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pp.17-26
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2019
This research aims to obtain useful data on the development of compression garment products with high-stretch knitted materials. Using nylon SCY, four specimens were knitted. Then, appearance (width, length, weight, thickness), stretch property (stretch, recovery) and clothing pressure were measured and their interrelation was analyzed. In the comparison of appearance features, yarn floating caused shrinkage in both course and wale directions of the specimens. Yarn overlapping by tucking caused a release in the course direction and shrinkage in the wale direction. Also, structural change was affected by the weight and thickness change of the knitted fabric. In the analysis of fabric stretch, yarn floating reduced the extension in course direction and increased that in wale direction of the knitted fabric. However, yarn overlapping reduced the elongation in both directions. In the analysis of recovery, yarn floating and overlapping raised fabric recovery in both directions, and tuck structure was superior to float in recovery. In the analysis of clothing pressure, 'Plain-Float' structured fabrics showed a higher clothing pressure than 'Plain' and the clothing pressure value of 'Plain-Tuck' was lower than that of 'Plain'. As for the correlation between fabric appearance, stretch property, and clothing pressure, the appearance change in course direction had a major influence on the clothing pressure. The shrinkage of appearance led to a decrease in stretch and an increase in clothing pressure.
This study surveyed on the synthesis of one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin and the physical property of the coated fabric for the garment. Three kinds of chain extender such as MEG, 1,4-BD and NPG were used for the preparation of one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin in order to examine the effect of chain extender on the physical properties of PU-coated fabric. And the effects of isocyanate on the physical properties of PU coated fabric were surveyed by mixing with various TDI and MDI ratios. In addition, the physical properties of the coated fabric treated with one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin were examined according to the pre-treatment conditions such as cire finishing. Finally, the washing durability of the coated fabrics was assessed. The coated fabrics treated with PU resin synthesized with PEG1000, MEG and TDI/MDI (6/4) showed the best physical properties. Considering the pre-treatment conditions, best performance of hydraulic pressure, water vapor permeability, and water repellency were obtained with top roller rotation ratio of 150% under 50 ton pressure at $170^{\circ}C$.
Lee, Heeran;Hong, Kyunghi;Kim, Yang Weon;Park, Se Jin
Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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v.16
no.1
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pp.1-10
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2013
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the adequate clothing pressure of upper and lower body foundation garment and subjective assessment of those compressive foundation depending on various wearing conditions. Eighteen women in their 30s and 40s participated in the experiments for this study to evaluate the level of clothing pressure of girdle and waist nipper. Subjects were divided into two groups by the wearing habits of foundation, one is the group of wearing foundation garment 'tightly' and the other is 'loosely', It was found that the group wearing foundation garment 'loosely' was much more sensitive than the group of 'tightly' in everyday life. The adequate pressure of upper foundation, waist nipper was about $1.5{\pm}0.8$ kPa which is lower than that of the lower body foundation, girdle. And at the same time, the sensitivity of the pressure level was higher when subjects are wearing waist nipper compared with wearing girdle. Therefore, precise pattern making process is necessary to meet the adequate level of pressure of the upper body foundation such as waist nipper, specially for those who used to wear clothing loosely.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.34
no.11
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pp.1824-1835
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2010
This study develops tight-fitting torso patterns for performance garments by taking into account the skin deformation generated directly from a 3D scan during arm movements. The skin deformation caused during the arm movements was scanned after scanning the skin surface stamped with a circle. To create a torso pattern in response to skin deformation, the ratio and direction of the skin deformation were first measured and analyzed so that the 3D human body could be segmented. After translating, the 3D skin surface was segmented into 2D flat patterns, designing nude patterns and reducing them as well as tight-fitting shirts: the skin deformation segment shirts were made in response to the skin deformation. The features of the fabric deformation and the garment pressure were analyzed and evaluated. In comparison with a clothing construction segment shirt, the diameter of the skin deformation segment shirt was smaller as well the ratios of extension and reduction was less. The garment pressure of the skin deformation segment shirt was higher. The skin deformation segment shirt fitted more tightly compared to a clothing construction segment shirt as it covered the body more thoroughly and was as comfortable as the other shirts with less fabric deformation made as the body moved.
This study evaluates the thermal insulation and evaporative resistance of a waterproof and breathable garment system and determines the factors influencing its thermal performance. The experimental garments were composed of underwear (shirts with 100% wool and 100% polyester) and outerwear (jackets and pants with a vapor-permeable membrane and a vapor-impermeable membrane). Data on clothing insulation in a dry condition ($10^{\circ}C$) and a wet condition ($10^{\circ}C$, 40% R.H.), evaporative resistance ($34^{\circ}C$, 40% R.H., and $10^{\circ}C$, 40% R.H.), and microclimate vapor pressure were collected and analyzed. According to the results, the thermal insulation of the experimental garment system ranged 1.27~1.40 in the dry condition and 0.40~0.89 in the wet condition at $10^{\circ}C$. Evaporative resistance ranged $41{\sim}525m^2Pa/W$. A decrease in thermal insulation by wetting underwear ranged 31~67% in the cold condition ($10^{\circ}C$). The breathability of the outer garment influenced the decrease in thermal insulation by wetting. The type of underwear fiber influenced the decrease in thermal insulation only when it was used with breathable outerwear. The vapor-permeable outerwear sample with polyester underwear (P_Perm) showed a larger decrease in insulation than that with wool (W_Perm). The evaporative resistance of the vapor-permeable ensemble showed no effect of underwear in the warm condition ($34^{\circ}C$), but polyester underwear showed lower evaporative resistance than wool in the cold condition ($10^{\circ}C$). The vapor-impermeable ensemble showed no difference in evaporative resistance between polyester underwear and wool underwear in both conditions. Future research should consider various clothing ensemble combinations and environmental conditions and evaluate wear comfort by using human subjects.
We measured change of peripheral skin temperature and mean skin temperature when the upper arm and thigh are pressured in order to know the effect of skin pressure applied by clothing on blood circulation. After release from pressure, we observed also recovery condition. At the same time, we examined relation between pressure and a feeling of thightness. Three physiques of healthy females, namely slender, standard and plump, served as subjects. We used continuous restraint method with skin pressure applied by experimental fabric for 10 min. As a result of this experiment, we obtained following findings. 1. The significant difference was marked at the pressure, measuring time and physique with change of skin temperature under upper arm restraint. The peripheral and mean skin temperature decreased with the lapse of restraint time. A remarkable tendency observed according to the increase of restraint pressure. Recovery condition after release from pressure not yet recovered to original state, for all after a lapse of 10 min. 2. The significant difference was marked at the pressure, measuring time and physique with change of skin temperature under thigh restraint, especially different physique was remarkable among them. The peripheral skin temperature decreased or decreased. Recovery condition after release from pressure was the same upper arm. 3. Main factor affecting the evaluation of a feeling of tightness was restraint pressure. The value of pressure sensation made remarkable declined after a lapse of 10 min restraint time. Individual differences, however, were shown in pressure sensation.
A study on compressive garments guarantee the required pressure and form depending on the type of disease and the state of injury can be used in the preventive treatment of cardiovascular disease. This research is to provide a preliminary data to develop medical clothing products, especially knitted compression garments. Starting from analyzing knitted structure of imported pressure goods to apply to test samples, 11 kinds of knitted stretchy fabrics were manufactured under the various knitting conditions, then their tensile, mechanical and hand properties were measured. In comparison size changes by knitting structure, tuck stitch applied structure showed an increase in course direction and decrease in wale direction. Float stitch applied structure indicated the contraction of size in width because of unformed loops and floated yarn on the technical back of fabric. As a result of tensile properties in tuck and float applied structure, tensile strength was increased in the course direction. On the other hand, the more loops overlapped due to the tuck and float stitch, the more decreased their elongation and elastic recovery were. In case of mechanical properties, as the tuck and float stitch were overlapped double or triple the bending and shearing properties were risen. Accordingly, the drape of fabric becomes stiff, and its surface becomes rough and uneven. The measurements of hand properties showed that the value of KOSHI, FUKURAMI NUMERI in tuck and float applied structure are higher than the plain structure. This results from the relationship between the mechanical and hand properties.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.17
no.2
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pp.197-206
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1993
We studied relation between the clothing pressure applied by foundations(waist nipper, girdle, body suit) on the waist of bodies and muscular activity, feeling of tightness. The main results were summerized as follows ; 1. Clothing pressure applied by foundations was high in order of girdle>waist nipper>body suit, also clothing pressure was higher back than front and side, sitting on the chair than standing posture, ventral flection than repose. Individual differences, even if size of body was equal, were shown in clothing pressure applied by foundations with subcutaneous fat's amount in measuring region. 2. The muscular activity of rectus abdominis than obliquus externus abdominis was more affected by foundations in all kinds of postures and motions. Amplitude of electromyogram was high sitting on the chair than standing posture, but there was little difference with motion variation. The wearing girdle strongly affected on the muscular activities of rectus abdominis and obliquus externus abdominis as compared with waist nipper and body suit. 3. The value for feeling of tightness by wearing waist nipper was higher than girdle and body suit. Also the case when sitting on the chair and ventral flection, the value for feeling of tightness was high. When the foundations were on the body, most tightened on the region of the body was anterior abdominal region.
Kim, Tae-Gyou;Park, Soon-Jee;Park, Jung-Whan;Suh, Chu-Yeon;Choi, Sin-Ae
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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v.14
no.2
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pp.277-285
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2012
This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.25
no.4
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pp.107-122
/
2023
This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.
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