• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.467-474
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• 2010

Recently, Study of functional clothing for Vital sensing is focused on reducing artifact by human motions, in order to enhance the electrocardiogram(ECG) sensing accuracy. In this study, considering the factors for each element found from the analysis, a 3-lead electrode inside textile embroidered with silver yarn was developed, and draft designs off our types of vital-signal sensing garments, which are 'chest-belt typed' garment, 'cross-typed' garment 'x-typed' garment and 'curved x-typed' garment, were prepared. The draft designs were implemented on a sleeveless male shirt made of an elastic material so that the garment and the electrodes can remain closely attached along the contour of the human body, and the acquired data was sent to the main computer over a wireless network. In order to evaluate the effects caused by body movements and the ECG-sensing capability for each type in static and dynamic states, displacements were measured from one and two dimensional perspectives. ECG measurement evaluation was also performed for Signal-to-noise ratio(SNR) analysis. Applying the experimental results, the draft garment designs were modified and complemented to produce two types of modular approaches 'continuous-attached' and 'insertion-detached' for the ECG-sensing smart clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1347-1358
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• 2011

This study purposed to analyze differences in body measurement between the 2D direct body measuring method and the 3D body scan measuring method and to perform the appearance evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation of the fit of pants to which body measurements obtained by each measuring method were applied. Body measuring was conducted in 10 women in their 20s-30s using 2D direct body measuring and 3D automatic measuring with Hamamatsu body scanner. Among the 10 women, 3 participated in experimental garment wearing. Experimental pants were made using their 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements, and wearing tests were performed through expert evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation. The results of the experiment were as follows. According to the results of comparative analysis on differences between 2D direct body measurements and 3D scan measurements, 3D automatic measurements were significantly larger in bust circumference, ankle circumference, armscye circumference, shoulder length, scye depth, and arm length. As circumferences measured with the 3D body scanner were somewhat larger than directly measured ones, it is suggested to adjust ease when using existing pattern making methods. We prepared experimental garments by the same pattern making method through applying body measurements obtained with the two measuring methods, and assessed the fit of the garment comparatively through expert evaluation and 3D scan cross-sectional evaluation. According to the results, 2D-pants using 2D direct body measurements was slightly tighter than 3D-pants using 3D measurements in waist circumference, hip circumference, and abdominal circumference. In the results of comparing appearance in terms of the fit of the experimental garment in each subject, significant difference was observed in most of the compared items. This result suggests that 3D automatic body measuring data may show different accuracy according to body shape and therefore it is necessary to examine difference between 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements according to body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.904-915
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop and examine an in-line skating uniform that is also suitable for everyday wear, through research on the dressing needs of skaters. The results of this research are as follows: when asked about the garment, ordinary clothes were more inconvenient than professional uniform. In the case of the upper garment, the skaters who dressed in ordinary clothes felt the most inconvenience in the part of sleeve, back side of bottom and width. The skaters who dressed in professional in-line uniforms felt the most inconvenience in the part of neck girth, of sleeve, back side of bottom. In the case of the lower garment, the skaters who dressed in ordinary clothes felt the most inconvenience in the knee, crotch and hip. The skaters who dressed in professional in-line uniforms felt the most inconvenience in the hip and crotch. Damage due to wear was shown up the hip, knee, side of thigh and shoulder. The answer rate was high that the ordinary clothes usually wore out and the uniform used to tear out in the form of clothes damage. An appropriate sample pattern was made up, based on the problems revealed in the results of the questionnaire analysis. Evaluation of samples was used linear Measurement (5 point preference scale) by organized with 15 male and female's subjects group and 12 observer group.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1013-1019
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• 2015

As the interest in leisure and health increases, the domestic outdoor wear industry becomes bigger. The waterproofness of fabrics does not ensure the waterproofness of garments because of the stitch holes during the sewing process even with the seam sealing tapes. Thus the water leakage often becomes a problem during the end use. Still companies use fabrics waterproofness data for garments marketing because they are simple to run the test, less expensive than the whole garment testing, and easy to achieve the quality control. In this study the rain tower system for evaluating the waterproofness of garments has been developed and the waterproofness of the selected waterproof and breathable garments in the market were tested. The rain tower was consisted of rain tower room, rainfall forming system and measurement system. Two different levels of rainfall can be simulated with this system(100l/m²/hr and 450l/m²/hr). Jackets in the market have been tested at two different rainfall conditions. The temperature and humidity data inside jackets didn't provide much information on the waterproofness at severe rainfall condition(450l/m²/hr, 1 hour). However, water leakage was detected on the cotton undershirt inside jacket. 5 out of 8 jackets passed the normal rainfall condition(100l/m²/hr, 30 minutes). The newly developed rain tower system was able to evaluate the waterproofness of the jacket seams. It is recommended the further study on the detailed test conditions for the end use of the waterproof and breathable garments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.605-618
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.43-56
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• 1994

The Purpose of this study was to utilize of CAD System in pattern making process for women's apparel. The automation by the use of CAD System provides the higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making process. AccuMark 300 System was used. for .this study. The results from this study were as follows . 1. New size spec chart and grading pitch chart were developed based on the data analysis and fitting tests for female college students. 2. New jacket block was developed based on the torso length sloper 3. Automatic grading of jacket block have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern. 4. Pattern Design Systyem(P/D/S) were enabled to be constructed directly form a block pattern by modifications to existing styled pattern. 5. Original master pattern was generated by P/D/S menu option. 6. Production pattem added seam allowance, notchs was generated by P/D/S menu option. 7 Interative maker making process have enabled to save a wide range of time and space. 8. Measurement of garment by P/D/S measuring tools is to utilize in garment costing, quality control.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1125-1136
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• 2000

Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. Development of basic patterns will enhance the fitness of clothes. But there are few slacks patterns for the middle-high school girls. So girls had difficulties to buy ready-made clothes of good fit. To solve this problem, it is necessary to develop basic slacks patterns. The purposes of this study was to develop basic slacks patterns based on the analysis of lower body types. 4 girls were selected among 402 anthropometric measurement subjects who are 13 to 15 year-old for the wearing tests. The result of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Analysing the replicas of lower body surface by using gypsum method, slack patterns were developed. 2. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly than existing patterns in the items of the comfort of front crotch and back crotch. 3. Wearing test by moire topography method represented that garment silhouette of developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly and garment space of waist, hip were significantly different among patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.207-216
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• 1988

This study is to examine the cleaningproof by dry cleaning runs and parts(shoulder, belly, butt) of garment leathers tanned chrome. This study is composed of three methods of test; color difference test, surface view by scanning electron micrographs, mechanical properties measurement by KES-FB system. The results obtained were as follows: 1. In stiffening of parts of sample, the belly is the best degree in smoothness, fullness, softness. But that of the butt have been found to be the worst degree and to be thick. 2. In fading of parts, the shoulder is an extreme case, but the belly is the best among three parts. 3. In dry cleaning runs, the view after 3 runs has been found to be the best result. 4. The stiffening after dry cleaning 1 run have been low grade, for the sample absorb much solvent of dry cleaning. And, the fading and the decoloration are to be worse after 5 runs. Because the leather surface is affected by dry cleaning runs.